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Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Picnic Table Plans - Build a Trestle Style Picnic Table

Maybe I'm being sentimental, but I miss the old wooden picnic table my grandparents had in their backyard. Most of the patio furniture I own now seems like a poor substitution for that wonderful old redwood table with the checkerboard cloth. I've got a few tools in my shop, so last week I went looking for some picnic table plans - hoping to build the same kind of picnic table I so fondly remember from my childhood.

Basic Picnic Table Construction
The picnic table plans I eventually decided to go with are for a trestle style table - something that looks a lot like what my grandparents had. It calls for fairly simple construction; a type of glue-and-screw joinery that uses simple butt joints and outdoor adhesive. Nothing too complicated there. And I can cut most of the wood with a cordless saw. After that, it's just a matter of getting all the pieces glued and screwed together with hardware.

Start with the Feet
Rather than using simple cross-hatched legs (like the cheap picnic tables), a trestle table has two separate leg sections located at each end of the table. Two long stretcher boards span between the two legs, keeping everything solid and square. I'll start the project by making a foot for each leg. After that I'll make the leg itself, which includes a strip of wood (rail) along the top to support the table itself.

Complete the Base
Up till now, I've been able to do most of the construction down in my basement shop. But before I attach the legs to the stretchers, I'll need to move everything out to the garage or patio. At this point, it's probably easier to complete the base assembly with the table flipped upside down. With a power drill in hand, my next step is to drill, glue, and drive woodscrews to connect the legs to the base.

Make the Top
For the top, my picnic table plans call for alternating 2x6's and 2x4's held together with 1x4 strips of wood called "cleats." Lay out all the boards on the floor, even up the edges, and then mount the cleats with woodscrews. I'll use a series of 1/4"-thick spacers and a couple of clamps to keep the boards steady while I mount the cleats.

Bring it All Together
With the assembled top still upside down, I'll lay the completed base on top and drill pilot holes through the stretchers and into the table top. Before flipping the table upright, I'll need to attach the two outer top rails for added strength. After applying some construction adhesive, I'll drive 4"-long screws through the outer rail and leg, into the inner rail. Now it's time to flip the table upright.

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