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Sunday, August 11, 2013

How to hang a heavy mirror

Any picture or mirror weighing more than 10kg is best hung from two points on the wall, with hanging devices attached to corresponding points on the frame.
 
It's best to hook the hanging device onto a screw head in a wall stud, even if it's just on one side.
 
Distribute the weight of a mirror over 10kg across two hanging points on the wall, removing the hanging wire and replacing it with D rings or keyhole plates that hook onto plasterboard or masonry anchors. 
 
Position the rings or plates about one-third of the way down from the top on both sides and secure with screws into the back of the frame. 
- See more at: http://www.readersdigest.com.au/how-to-hang-heavy-mirror#sthash.LIZxWWHU.dpufAny picture or mirror weighing more than 10kg is best hung from two points on the wall, with hanging devices attached to corresponding points on the frame.Any picture or mirror weighing more than 10kg is best hung from two points on the wall, wi Any picture or mirror weighing more than 10kg is best hung from two points on the wall, with hanging devices attached to corresponding points on the frame.

 Any picture or mirror weighing more than 10kg is best hung from two points on the wall, with hanging devices attached to corresponding points on the frame.
 
It's best to hook the hanging device onto a screw head in a wall stud, even if it's just on one side.
 
Distribute the weight of a mirror over 10kg across two hanging points on the wall, removing the hanging wire and replacing it with D rings or keyhole plates that hook onto plasterboard or masonry anchors. 
 
Position the rings or plates about one-third of the way down from the top on both sides and secure with screws into the back of the frame. 
 
Position the rings or plates about one-third of the way down from the top on both sides and secure with screws into the back of the frame.  th hanging devices attached to corresponding points on the frame.
 
It's best to hook the hanging device onto a screw head in a wall stud, even if it's just on one side.
 
Distribute the weight of a mirror over 10kg across two hanging points on the wall, removing the hanging wire and replacing it with D rings or keyhole plates that hook onto plasterboard or masonry anchors. 
 
Position the rings or plates about one-third of the way down from the top on both sides and secure with screws into the back of the frame. 
- See more at: http://www.readersdigest.com.au/how-to-hang-heavy-mirror#sthash.LIZxWWHU.dpuf
 
It's best to hook the hanging device onto a screw head in a wall stud, even if it's just on one side.
 
Distribute the weight of a mirror over 10kg across two hanging points on the wall, removing the hanging wire and replacing it with D rings or keyhole plates that hook onto plasterboard or masonry anchors. 
 
Position the rings or plates about one-third of the way down from the top on both sides and secure with screws into the back of the frame. 
- See more at: http://www.readersdigest.com.au/how-to-hang-heavy-mirror#sthash.LIZxWWHU.dpuf

Friday, August 9, 2013

DIY Slipcover Patterns

Making your own pattern allows you to get your slipcover’s curves, contours, width, and length just right. Muslin is a terrific fabric for slipcover planning:
Buy more muslin than you think you’ll need, even as much as one-third more.

  1. Take off the chair’s cushion.
  2. Starting with the outside back of your chair, measure the width and length.
    If you want the slipcover to go all the way to the floor, measure to the floor.
  3. Add 4 inches to your width and length measurements and cut your muslin piece.
    This extra amount allows adequate muslin to create your seam allowance.
  4. Pin it to the back of the chair with straight pins.
  5. With tailor’s chalk, carefully follow the seams that are already on your armchair, tracing lines with your chalk right on your pinned muslin.
    image0.jpg
    Make sure your lines are straight; use your ruler or L-square if that helps you.
  6. Remove the muslin and using your fabric marker and ruler, draw another line a 1/2-inch to the right from the chalk line that you traced in Step 5.
    image1.jpg
    This mark is the cutting line and reflects your 1/2-inch seam allowance.
  7. With your scissors, cut the muslin piece out using the second line you drew in Step 6.
    With your fabric marker, write on the back: “Back, Cut 1.”
  8. Measure your chair’s side.
    image2.jpg
    Follow the same instructions in Steps 1 through 7. Add 4 inches to each measurement, measure and pin the muslin to the chair, chalk around the seams to get the shape, add your 1/2-inch seam allowance in fabric marker, and cut out your piece. This piece is your side pattern; mark it “Side, Cut 2, reversing one.” To get a mirrored pair of sidepieces, you must flip the pattern over when you cut the second piece unless your pattern piece is truly rectilinear.
  9. For the inside seat area, measure from the bottom of the seatback up and over the top of the chair, to the back area (where you made your first pattern), and be sure to add 4 inches to each measurement.
    image3.jpg
  10. Chalk a line on the top where the fabric bends to meet the chair back pattern.
    Pin, chalk, remove your muslin, add a 1/2-inch seam allowance line around your chalk marks using your fabric marker, label it “Seatback, Cut 1,” and cut out your pattern.
  11. For the inside armrest area, you have to go over the top to meet your side pattern, and make sure to chalk a line at the bend.
    image4.jpg
    Pin, chalk, remove, add your 1/2-inch seam allowance line, cut out your pattern, and label it “Inside arm rest, Cut 2, reversing one.”
  12. Create your seat pattern.
    image5.jpg
    Start at the crease where the seat meets the seatback and go down to the floor in front of the chair. Repeat the steps as previously to create your muslin pattern and label it “Seat, Cut 1.”
  13. Create a pattern for the front of the armrests.
    image6.jpg
    Repeat all the previous steps to create your muslin pattern, and label it “Front armrest, Cut 2, reversing one.”
  14. You also need to cover your seat cushion.
    This cushion cover looks like a tube, and it’s easy to make. To make the first pattern:
    1. Measure the cushion’s width and the circumference and add a 1/2-inch to each measurement. Create your pattern in muslin and label it “Cushion top, Cut 1.”
    2. Measure the cushion’s front and back. If your cushion is square, these measurements are equal. Add a 1/2-inch to each measurement. Create your pattern and label it “Cushion sides, Cut 2.”
      image7.jpg
  15. Pin the muslin pieces together working right on the armchair.
    A 1/2-inch in from the cut edge of the muslin fabric is where the pieces need to join. Use straight pins, or safety pins, the latter for more hold.
  16. After you pin your muslin, remove the muslin and, using a baste stitch, start sewing your pieces together, making sure to check the “slipcover” as you sew every few seams to make sure the fit is correct.
    image8.jpg
  17. Hem the bottom.
  18. For your cushion, sew the two ends of the long piece of muslin into a tube.
    image9.jpg
  19. Starting at the corner, pin in one rectangular piece of muslin into the open area, or the tube’s “mouth,” and stitch it in using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
    Stitch only one long seam on the other side so you can insert your cushion to check for the fit. (source)

DIY Garden & Yard Art Videos

When creating your own garden yard art, recycled and up cycled materials can be the perfect place to start. If you want a creative way to show off your potted plants or flowers, find an old wooden chair. Paint it using bright colors that compliment the plants, and you have an eye-catching potted plant display.
For a whimsical touch, drag out that old wooden wagon that has been sitting in the garage collecting rust. You can add some paint if you absolutely have to, but the true beauty lies in its vintage look. Find a spot in your garden and add some of the potted plants you want to make sure everyone notices, and you have an instant showcase for those beautiful flowers you worked so hard on.

 The best part of recycled yard art is the ability to create a unique space that is all your own. If you want to create a theme based garden, look around and find things that match your theme. You can use sculptures of cats mixed with cattails for a feline inspired haven, or you can use old farm equipment for a down on the farm feel. Just place your decorations where you like and add plants and shrubs around them to create interesting focal pieces.
If you have decided to throw out your old headboard, why not use it as a garden gate? Simply add some hinges and you have an instant gate that also doubles as garden yard art.
Old newel posts are a great way to add accents to your garden. You can dress them up with some paint, or leave them natural to accent a vintage inspired garden.
You know that unsightly old stump in the middle of your yard. Rather than trying to hide it, use some outdoor paint and add a checkerboard to the center. Now you have a great place to meet with friends and play a few games, and a unique piece of garden yard art to boot.
If you love your birdbaths but wish they had more visual appeal, use them to create mosiacs. Glue broken pieces of tile and stones around the bottom and edges of the bowl. Once you add water you have homemade yard art that sparkles and shimmers all day long.
If you want a unique way of decorating your old shed, find old birdhouses and attach them to one side. You can use just a few, or cover the entire thing to invite some feathered friends.
Homemade garden yard art is a great way to add the perfect details to your garden, without spending tons of money. Just take a walk through your garage, or visit your neighborhood yard sales to find some interesting pieces to use for inspiration.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Byron_Cole_Smith

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7751071

Thursday, August 8, 2013

How to Repair Water Heater

Hot water heaters have a tendency to fail when you need them the most. That being said if you make sure to check and maintain your water heater especially before the winter sets in you can avoid many of these issues. Some of the most common hot water heater problems include:

  • Little or no hot water
  • Rust in the water
  • The smell of rotten eggs
  • A rumbling or a popping noise
  • A leak around the base of your heater
  • A whining sound


Preparing for the job
Before performing any DIY repairs or troubleshooting your hot water heater do the following:

  • Turn the gas or electricity off to the heater.
  • Turn off the water valve.
  • Drain all the water by unscrewing the valve located below your water heater.

Problem no. 1: No hot water
Possible causes for no hot water include:

  • A bad gas pilot
  • A faulty gas control valve
  • A spoilt thermocouple

Possible solutions to this problem:

  • See if the gas pilot's flame is burning. If it's not burning then it means that the gas is not flowing as it should.
  • Reposition, tighten or replace your thermocouple.
  • Replace the control valve.

Problem no. 2: Not enough hot water
Main causes of this problem include:

  • The unit is small hence not being able to fulfill demand adequately
  • A damaged or broken dip tube which is allowing hot and cold water to mix
  • A bad installation which has crossed both the hot and cold pipes

Possible ways to repair this problem:

  • You should make sure that your water heater is not overtaxed. You should have a 40 gallon water heater if the demand requires 30 gallons because 75% of its capacity needs to be hot water.
  • Open up the inlet pipe nipple and take out the dip tube. If it looks in bad shape then replace it.

  • Check to see if the connection has been crossed by turning off all the water supply. Open the hot water tap if you still see water flowing then you have a crossed connection. The most common problem is the hot water line connected to the cold water line like a dishwasher, shower valves or a faucet.

  • Check if the burner is burning properly. If you have a gas heater the flame needs to be bright blue with the tip having a slight yellow tinge.

Problem no. 3: Rust colored water
Some of the root causes of this issue are:

  • Corrosion within the glass lined tank
  • The sacrificial anode may be failing. The anode fails because the rod dissolves slowly which prevents the tank from rusting. Once it fails completely rust then takes over.

Possible Repair
Simply replace the anode rode with a new magnesium rod. These can be purchased from a plumbing supply store.
Problem no. 4: The smell of rotten eggs
Bacteria in your hot water tank feeds off the sediments which creates hydrogen gas which gets mixed in with the decay of your sacrificial anode.
Possible ways to remedy the issue:

  • Completely flush the water heater followed by adding 2 pints or around 3% of a concentrated peroxide solution to around 40 gallons of water. Also run some of this solution into your water lines.
  • The solution should sit in your tank and pipes for around 2 hours. The solution is not toxic and so you don't have to rinse it.
  • If you continue to have problems then replace the anode with a zinc one.

If the problem still persists you may need to change the water heater and get a plastic lined one.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7748996

 

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