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Saturday, January 12, 2008

How To Install Tile

Learning to install tile can save you hundreds of dollars, but doing this can be quite intimidating. My first thought was, "If I blow this, my wife will have a tile contractor in our home as soon as the project is declared a disaster." I have nothing against hiring a professional when it is necessary, but only when it has been declared necessary. I spent some time reading and time watching videos about laying tile. I decided to write the steps out so I do not find myself mixing thin-set before I have even thought about the layout. I have broken the process of installing tile into five manageable steps which I hope will lead you toward a successful project.

Underlayment: Any loose nails or screws should be secured at this time as well as any loose boards or squeaks must be remedied now. The backer board is next to be installed using screws recommended by the manufacture. Any joints in the backer board should be filled with thin-set and covered with nylon joint tape made for this purpose. Properly installed backer board will give the tile a flat rigid surface to adhere to. Without this stable surface, the tile may crack or not lay level.

Layout: I start by finding the center of the room and snap a chalk line on that mark. I then snap a line perpendicular to the first line. From there I begin to dry fit tiles from the center line to the wall, it is likely that the last tile will result in a cut. This is where you will need to decide if a cut tile in that area is acceptable, if it is not then adjust the layout to what is appealing to your eye. Remember, any changes you make to one side will affect the other. Each room is different, so there is no one right answer. Just pick a layout that is the most appealing to the eye. Make reference marks for the first two courses so the tile can then be set back in those places.

Setting The Tile: Mix the thin-set according to the manufacturer's instructions. Spread the thin-set with a notched trowel in small controlled areas and begin to set your tiles (from the known point on the floor which you marked earlier during the layout). Once you set a tile in place, give it a slight twist or tap to ensure the thin-set is in full contact with the tile. Do not forget to use spacers to maintain consistent grout joints between tiles.

Grouting: Mix the grout according to the instructions. Work the grout into the joints with a grout float. Once this has been accomplished, it is time to scrape the excess off the tile. This is done by pulling the float at a 45 degree angle to the joints while keeping the float at a 45 degree angle to the floor. If I were to pull the float in the direction of the joints, I would risk removing grout from that joint. Once the excess grout is removed, it is time to clean the tile with a sponge and plenty of clean water. It will be necessary to clean the tile at least a couple of times with the sponge and clean water. If a haze develops on the tile after cleaning, use a clean towel and buff the surface until haze is removed.

Sealing the Grout: This is a very important but easy part of the tile project. These sealers help protect the grout from stains and mildew. There are several types and brands of sealers on the market. Some can be applied the same day the tile was installed, they allow the grout to breathe as it cures. There are others that can not be applied until the grout is fully cured so it is very important to follow the directions from the manufacturer. Picking a sealer comes down to the conditions in which it will be used. If your tile is in the shower, then your grout sealer needs to be mildew resistant. However, if it is floor tile, stain resistance should be the priority.

Only reading about how to install tile was never enough for me. I found a great training resource that gave me the confidence to jump into a tile project. I think ceramic tile is a great improvement for your home, and I hope that this helps you on your way. Click here to read my other ramblings about installing tile.

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