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Thursday, August 28, 2008

DIY - Lighting – Motion Sensors for Home Lighting

One of the latest crazes in home lighting is the use of motion sensors. But there’s nothing crazy about this craze. It makes perfect sense. Whether used for security or convenience, motion sensors can add a very useful high-tech touch to lights both outdoor and in.

The most obvious application, and one in wide use today, is to turn on outdoor floodlights when anyone approaches within the sensor’s range. Studies confirm common sense that a well-lit home is less vulnerable to a home invader than one that has large dark areas near points of entry.

Adding motion sensors and/or motion sensor lights is an effective way to solve that problem. They trigger the lights on approach, which has two advantages. A light that comes on unexpectedly tends to startle the unwanted visitor. That provides extra motivation to change their plans and move on to an easier target. Homeowners also save money on electricity by not having high-wattage bulbs burn all night long when and where they’re not really needed.

That goal can be accomplished with separate motion sensors that are connected to a whole system, one that includes lights, a horn or other security components. Or, as is the case in many fixtures, the motion sensor can be integrated into the lamp housing itself. Both are effective, though in some cases separate motion sensors have a greater range and angle of coverage.

But security isn’t the only reason that motion sensors can be a huge benefit. They can supply extra safety and convenience, as well.

You pull up into the driveway or walk outside on a dark night. You can’t see a thing. That toy or bicycle is just waiting there for you to step on. That low garden fence you always forget about is ripe for bumping into. Motion sensors can turn on the lights at your approach and prevent accidents.

They can also make it much easier to turn on the lights when you just need a brief light. You don’t have to be near the switch, you just approach or wave an arm and on pop the lights. Now you can find your keys, put away that pesky toy or just make it into the house without any trouble.

Many of the same considerations apply to indoor motion sensors, too. But indoor sensors come in an even wider variety of types and styles.

Existing wall switches or outlets can easily be converted to contain motion sensors. That makes it very easy to have a system that turns on the light when you enter, then turns it off when you leave.

Motion sensors can be integrated with hallway lamp sconces to provide illumination when you enter. You save electricity and bulb life by having the light not on when you’re not there.

Look into the full range of motion sensors available: wireless, infrared, ultrasonic, weatherproof and many more.

Source http://home-improvement.savvy-cafe.com/diy-lighting-%E2%80%93-motion-sensors-for-home-lighting-2008-08-20/

DIY Home Security System Wiring & Choosing the Right Alarm System

Source http://www.ehomesecuritysystems.com/home-security/diy-home-security-system-wiring-alarms-32/

The statistics show that it is 60% less likely your home will be vandalized or have personal possessions stolen from if you have a home security system installed. For this reason having installed or installing yourself (DIY) a home security system whether with wires or not is a good investment.

Selecting the right security system for you

Before you start thinking about home security system wiring, first you must select the right home security system for your home, there is no point in thinking about home security wiring when you might even end up purchasing a wireless home security system.

So now let’s take a look at some of the things you should take into account. You really need to think about where you live and how your house is laid out. Depending on the crime rate of your area you may want to invest more or less in your system and depending on the layout of your home and the location of the entrance point’s, difference kinds of security system may work better or worse.

If after taking into account all of this, you have decided on a system that uses wires, you will be ready to start thinking about the installation of your system and home security system wiring.

Wired home security systems and home security system wiring

Wired home security systems are still used quite a lot today because they are generally less expensive and quite reliable. But of course because of the home security system wiring involved they are considerably more complicated and time-consuming to install when doing it yourself.

If you’re one for do-it-yourself (DIY) kind of work, you should not have too many problems with your home security system wiring although there are some things you will need to take into account that we will discuss shortly. If you haven’t got much experience with do-it-yourself (DIY) kind of jobs and more importantly electrical wiring, you may be better off getting a professional to do your home security system wiring, since at least that way you could rest assured that a professional and adequate job had been done.

Things to take into account when doing your home security system wiring

Home security system wiring isn’t quite the same as wiring up some new speakers, simply because if a thief can gain access to the wires of your device he or she will be able to tamper with the functionality of the system. Making sure your home security system wiring is out of harm’s way is probably the most important thing you need to do.

Another thing you should take into account is humidity and in the case of external wiring, protection from the elements. If you live in a dry climate it probably isn’t too much of an issue for you, but in places where humidity is an issue you must make extra sure to protect your wiring with the proper insulation. In the case of outdoors wiring this is obviously important wherever you live.

Wiring home security systems isn’t the easiest task out there, so if you have no wiring experience and are not prepared to do some research to teach yourself exactly how it should be done, you should employ the services of a professional electrician to do the home security system wiring for you.

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Do-It-Yourself Bathroom Tile Designs

Installing tile yourself can be a challenging job. For those that are handy with tools and unafraid to get dirty though it can give you quite a sense of accomplishment AND save you considerable amounts of money. Here are a few tips to think about before you call off the contractor and roll up your sleeves.

Is your structure sound?

Tile can add a lot of weight to the walls or floors. Analyze the underlying structure carefully and be absolutely certain it can support the weight of the bathroom tile designs you've chosen AND the weight of the mortar and/or adhesive you use.

Is your surface prepared?

What are the qualities of a well prepared surface? It must be:

  • Stable
  • Level
  • Clean
  • Waterproofed (if the area is in a high moisture area)
Be sure to check for and deal with any damage caused by water or moisture before even thinking about adding a tile to the substrate. This is the perfect time to really analyze the wall or floor composition. Spend a little time making sure that there are no loose areas or obstructions sticking out.

Do you have the right mortar or adhesive?

What are the factors you need to consider when choosing your mortar or adhesive for you bathroom tile designs?

  • function
  • type of tile
  • budget.
  • method of installation
  • location
We can separate mortar into two divisions: thin set and thick set.

Thin set has become the industry standard for several reasons. It goes on quickly. It sets quickly. It weighs a lot less than thick set. It costs less. Despite all the benefits, it's not the right choice in every situation.

Thick-set mortar was the standard until the mid 50s before the thinner style was invented. If your structure can support the weight, thick-set is appropriate when you need something that is impervious to water and or have an uneven surface. The thickness of the mortar can compensate for cracks or irregular surfaces due to its bulk. If you have bad walls or need to create a slope to facilitate drainage thick set is the better choice.

Chet has been building homes for over 20 years and is now a published author of do-it-yourself type projects. You can read his website http://www.bathroomtiledesigns.org specifically geared towards bathroom tile designs and bathroom tile ideas.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Vinyl Siding - Do-It-Yourself

The installation of vinyl siding is not a difficult thing if you are a handy person and have some handy friends. A lot of people are side-stepping the additional cost of labor when deciding to side their homes.

Choosing to use vinyl siding to reside your home is a good choice. Once the siding is installed, your home will look like a brand new one. You would think this would mean the price would be outrageous; however, if you install the siding yourself, you can save a lot of money of labor. This makes the project quite inexpensive.

The people in the house behind me just had their garage sided. The man doing the work told us that we could put vinyl siding on our garage pretty cheaply if we did it ourselves.

As an added incentive, he reminded us the old siding being torn off could be scrapped for money, and the money we'd get for the old siding would almost pay for the new vinyl siding!

The first thing done when installing siding yourself is the flashing around the windows and doors. This is because rain needs to flow off the roof, down the walls and to the ground without any pooling. Otherwise, you'll have leaks.

The next part is the J-trim or J-channel. This needs to be put around all the windows and doors. The J-channel is what the vinyl siding slips into so the siding has a neat look. You will want all your jagged edges hiding.

After that, you would install the soffit material, the fascia and the edging. The corner pieces come next. Both outside and inside corners are vinyl and you have to remember to leave expansion room. Temperature changes cause the vinyl siding to contract and expand, so it's important to leave a little room for that to happen so it doesn't crack.

After the corner pieces are all installed, you can install all the extra special little pieces for external outlets, spigots, lighting and dryer vents.

Once all these pieces are installed, you can start hanging your vinyl siding. Start with the starter strip and then just work your way upwards.

It won't take too long before you have what looks like a brand new home! It's a lot of work, but well worth it when you look at your pocketbook and realize you can now afford to do some other home improvement project.

Do it Yourself Green Project - Faster Hot Water

Itching to get your hands on a good do it yourself type project? Something you can do with your own two hands and feel good about when you finish? Here is such a project. It's not difficult, highly rewarding, and not only is it environmentally friendly, but it ads convenience to your daily life. A win-win if there ever was one.

Fast hot water delivery systems, commonly known as hot water circulating or recirculating systems, provide a number of benefits. Obviously faster hot water means you don't have to wait as long for it, saving you time. Since these systems do not run water down the drain when delivering the hot water, they save a lot of water.

Running water down the drain is not only a waste of water, but since the water is treated and pumped before it gets to your home, and then the sewer water is treated and pumped, a lot of energy is used in the process. Generation of this energy releases green house gasses into the atmosphere, contributes to pollution, and uses up more of our resources.

The first thing you must do is decide what type of hot water system to install. A full time hot water recirculation system could be a big project since you must run a water pipe from the last fixture back to the water heater inlet. If the plumbing in your home has major branch circuits then you might need to re-plumb some of the hot water piping to get the system to deliver hot water to every sink.

Fortunately there are other types of fast hot water delivery systems on the market that make things much easier for the do-it-yourselfer. There are a number of systems that utilize the cold water line as the hot water return line. Since the cold water line connects to the inlet of every water heater, and to a faucet at every sink, no mater which fixture you are at, you can send water back to the water heater by pumping it out of the hot water line and into the cold water line at that point.

Most of the fast hot water delivery systems put a pump at the fixture and just run the water in a big loop back to the heater. There are some systems that use gravity and thermal valves to move the water, with no pump involved. Although the gravity type systems can work when conditions are right, it's not practical for most homes, and you don't really get fast hot water, more like fast luke-warm water. For this article we will discuss only systems that use a pump to move the water.

One popular system is the Laing auto-circ system. This system is another luke-warm type system. The pump is located at the fixture where fast hot water is desired. The pump connects to the cold and hot water lines. A 110 volt outlet is needed, and the pump is supplied with a 6 foot cord. With this system, when the water at the fixture cools down to 85 degrees, the pump turn on and runs until the water at the fixture reaches 95 degrees, and then it shuts off.

Now you have luke-warm water waiting for you, in both the hot and cold water lines. How warm depends upon how long since the last pumping cycle occurred. This type of system uses a lot of extra energy since you have to have your piping at a temperature that is above ambient. Perhaps that is why they include a timer with the pump that allows you to turn the system off when you don't think you will need hot water. At least it will waste less energy that way. But it kind of defeats the purpose if you ask me. The Laing auto-circ system will not work with tankless water heaters. The auto-circ system runs about $250.00 give or take.

There are other manufactures that make similar systems such as Grundfos, RedyTemp, and Watts, with some variations but basically the same luke-warm type of hot water system. Again these systems won't work with tankless water heaters and run anywhere from $250.00 to over $500.00.

Another type of fast hot water delivery system is the demand hot water system. Demand hot water systems deliver hot water when "demanded" by the user, usually by pressing a button. A pump is located at the fixture where hot water is desired, and as with the previous systems, connects to the hot and cold water lines. When the button is pressed, the pump comes on, a valve in the pump opens, and hot water is pumped to the fixture at high speed. When hot water arrives at the pump, it shuts off, and you have instant hot water without running any water down the drain. Since the pump shuts off as hot water arrives, very little if any hot water ends up in the cold water line.

You get hot water fast, and you don't fill your cold water pipe with luke-warm water. Far less energy is used with demand hot water systems than with the other types of circulating systems. Typically a demand system will use less than $ 1.00 a year in electricity costs. Since the demand systems don't run continuously for long periods or cycle on and off frequently they work fine with tankless water heaters as long as they have a powerful enough pump.

The Metlund D'mand system offers several models and the biggest model will work with tankless water heaters. Metlund pumps run from about $330 to over $800. Another brand, the Chilipepper appliance, has a pump strong enough to run any tankless heater and costs $180.00.

There are some water companies that offer rebates for hot water circulating systems, so check with your local water company...your fast hot water system might end up costing you nothing!
Any of these systems can be installed in less than a day, and for some such as the Chilipepper appliance which connects with hoses, it can be less than 45 minutes.

Of all the systems that use a cold water line as the return piping, the demand systems save the most water, and consume the least energy. All the systems mentioned are recognized by national testing laboratories as meeting or exceeding UL listing requirements.

If you are looking for a great week-end do it yourself project that will provide great benefits for you and your family and help the environment, then a fast hot water system should be at the top of your list.

For more information about hot water circulating systems visit Mr. Lund's website: Demand Hot Water Systems

Mr. Lund invites you to visit his blog: Pondering Everything

Monday, August 11, 2008

Video: DIY - How to tile a wall

Expert DIY and home improvement advice from www.wickes.co.uk on how to tile a wall. Tips and general advice on how to do it yourself - Part 1 of 2. Wickes home improvement and DIY videos are presented by Martin Roberts, of the BBC's Homes Under the Hammer, together with his long-time friend and builder Dave Hughes. These original productions demonstrate how to successfully complete a typical DIY project of how to tile a wall.



Expert DIY and home improvement advice from www.wickes.co.uk on how to tile a wall. Tips and general advice on how to do it yourself - Part 2 of 2. Wickes home improvement and DIY videos are presented by Martin Roberts, of the BBC's Homes Under the Hammer, together with his long-time friend and builder Dave Hughes. These original productions demonstrate how to successfully complete a typical DIY project of how to tile a wall.

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Step By Step Instructions For Tile Installation

Author: Bruce Mendes
For the DIY, here are a few steps for proper tile installation. Installing ceramic tile is not hard by any means, just follow these step and have some patience and everything will fall into place.

1. Surface Preparation
Ceramic tile may be installed over most structurally-sound substrates. Make sure all surfaces to be tiled are clean, smooth, dry and free of wax, soap scum and grease. Any damaged, loose or uneven areas must be repaired, patched, and leveled. Remove all moldings, trims, appliances, etc. which may interfere with the installation. Door jambs may be undercut for tiles to slip under.

2. Layout
When tiling walls, tubs, or shower areas, begin by finding the center point of the wall. Use a level to draw a plumb line in the center of the wall. Align a row of loose tiles across the bottom of the wall from the center line, leaving uniform joints between tiles. If your tiles have integral spacer lugs, the tiles can be abutted to automatically leave consistent 1/16" joints. If this layout leaves small cuts (less than 1/2 tile) at walls then adjust plumb center line a half tile closer to the side wall.

Now determine the lowest point of the floor (or tub) by horizontally using a level. Stack two tiles here, and at the top draw a horizontal line on the wall. With a level, continue the line around all side walls to be tiles. This line is a guideline for the first row of tiles to be set above. Begin installing tiles to the center of the wall above the horizontal guideline. Install one half of the back wall at a time. Set the lower two rows last. Cut and fit bottom tiles against the floor (or tub) if not level. Leave a 1/8" gap above the tub for caulking to seal around tub.

Repeat the above process for side walls. Mark outside tile lines on walls that will not be completely tiled in order to spread adhesive. Leave out tiles where you plan to install ceramic accessories (soap dish, towel bar, etc.) Use bullnose trim pieces to finish edges on walls where necessary.

Floor Layout:
When tiling floors, begin by marking the center points of all four walls. Snap chalk lines between the center points of opposite walls. The lines will intersect in the center of the room. Make sure that the lines make perfect squares and adjust if necessary.
Lay out a row of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, leaving spaces for uniform joints between the tiles (use tile spacers). If this layout leaves small cuts (less than 1/2 tile) at walls, then adjust the center line by snapping a new chalk line a half tile closer to the wall.

Repeat this process along the other center line, adjusting as necessary. Now divide the room into smaller grids by snapping additional chalk lines parallel to the center lines. To fit the exact dimensions of these grids, lay out an area of tile approximately 2' x 3' starting in the center of the room along the center lines. Use tile spacers or leave equal joints between the tiles. Measure this grid and use the dimensions for each
smaller grid throughout the room.

Begin installing tiles in the center of the room. Install one quarter of the room, one quarter at a time. Finish each grid before moving on to the next one. Cut and fit the perimeter tiles in each grid last. Leave a 1/4" gap between the tile and walls. Do not walk on fresh tiles for about 24 hours until they set.

Countertop Layout:
When tiling counters, lay out tiles from front to back. Begin with counter trim then set full tiles on the first row working backward, so all cuts are made on the back row against the wall. Special trim pieces are available for use around recessed sinks, appliances, etc. if necessary. Snap parallel chalk lines on the substrate as needed to keep rows straight.
For backsplashes, match up joints with the countertop tile.

Begin with full tiles at the counter, working up so that all cuts are made on the top row under cabinets. Use bullnose trim pieces on flat walls or sides. Tile countertops should have a tile backsplash at least four inches high for protection.

3. Setting Tile:
Variation of shade and texture is an inherent characteristic of ceramic tiles. For a blended effect, mix tiles from several cartons as you set.
Tile ceilings before walls, Tile walls before floors.
Tile countertops before backsplashes. Once you have chosen the proper adhesive or mortar, read all instructions and precautions on the package before using. Mix thinset or mortar according to the directions on the package. Mix only enough to be used within 30 minutes.

Pre-mixed wall tile adhesives can be applied directly from the can without mixing. Determine the appropriate type of trowel (V or square-notch) and the right size (depth of notches) for the type of tile you are setting. Refer to the setting material package for recommendations.

Applying Adhesives:
Spread a 1/4" thick coat of adhesive onto the surface of one grid area using the flat side of the trowel. Do not cover the guidelines. When completed, immediately use the notch side of the trowel to comb adhesive into standing ridges by holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle. Remove any excess adhesive, leaving the setting bed uniform and ridged. Spread no more area than can be set in 15 minutes.

Setting Tile:
After determining the appropriate adhesive and mortar, begin setting the tile. Start with the first tile in the corner of the grid and work outward. Set tiles one at a time using a slight twisting motion. Do not slide tiles into place. Insert tile spacers as each tile is set, or leave equal joints between tiles. Continue until all tiles within the grid are set. When grid is completely installed, tap the tiles in with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block to ensure a good bond and a level plane. Remove any excess adhesive from joints with a putty knife and from the face of tiles with a damp sponge before moving on to the next grid.
Each grid must be installed correctly and completely within the layout grid lines for a successful overall installation.

Cutting Tile:
Measure tiles to be cut carefully and mark with a pencil or felt-tip pen. Edges that are too sharp may be smoothed with a carborundum stone. Make straight or diagonal cuts using a tile cutter. Make small curved cuts with nippers. Chip away small pieces for best results. Make full length curved cuts with a rod saw.
Soap dishes, towel bars, paper holders, etc. should be set in the spaces left out for them.

Apply a room temperature, silicone sealant to the back of each accessory. Position over hole and press firmly. Wipe off any excess silicone that may have leaked out from the sides. Use masking tap to hold in place and prevent slippage during cure time. After 24 hours, remove tape and grout perimeter edges.

4. Grouting Joints:
Before grouting joints, the tile should be well-set to prevent breaking the bond. Refer to the adhesive package for specific time. Generally, you should wait about 24 hours before grouting. Remove all the spacers used for setting. For the correct type of grout for your tile installations, refer to the following chart:
Wall/Counter Tile:
Joint Width Grout Type
Less than 1/8"
More than 1/8" Non-sanded
Fine-grain sanded

Floor Tile:
Joint Width Grout Type
Less than 1/8"
1/8" to 3/16"
More than 1/8" Non-sanded
Fine-grain sanded
Coarse-grain sanded

Determine the grout color of your choice. For best results, choose on the color-coordinates with the tile.
Carefully read all instructions and precautions on the package. Mix grout according to instructions. Make only enough to use within about 30 minutes. Wear protective gloves to protect your skin. Spread the mixed grout on the tiled surface, forcing grout down into joints with a rubber grout float or squeegee. Tilt the float at a 45 degree angle to aid the compacting action. Remove excess grout from the surface immediately with edge of float. Tilt float at a 90 degree angle and scrape it diagonally across the tiles. Continue the process of compacting, then scraping off excess, until you have grouted for approximately 30 minutes or when the mixture begins to stiffen. Discard stiffened grout mixture and begin cleanup procedure.

Cleanup:
Wait 15 to 20 minutes for grout to set slightly, the use a damp sponge to clean grout residue from the surface and smooth the grout joints. Rinse sponge frequently and change water as needed. Let the area dry until grout becomes hard and a haze forms on the tile surface, then polish with a soft cloth. If haze is stubborn, you may want to rinse again with a sponge and clean water. Wait 72 hours before heavy use. Do not apply sealers or polishes for three weeks until fully-cured, and only in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/step-by-step-instructions-for-tile-installation-508325.html

Saturday, August 2, 2008

DIY Fire Prevention

According to the National Fire Prevention Association, a home fire is reported in America every 83 seconds. A fire can be a devastating experience for you and your family. Implementing a DIY fire prevention program to keep your home and family safe is now easier than ever with a few easy steps and the many high-quality products available to consumers. Whether you’re a regular handyman or a newbie DIY-er, some simple tools and know-how are all you need to get started.

Smoke Detectors

Smoke detectors play a vital role in protecting against fire-related death and injury. Most people are probably already familiar with how smoke detectors work, but proper installation is important in order for them to work correctly. Some DIY tips for installing smoke detectors are:

• Install smoke detectors on every level of your home, including the basement.

• Install a smoke detector near every sleeping area in your home. If you sleep with bedroom doors closed, a smoke alarm should be placed in each bedroom.

• Mount smoke detectors on ceilings or high on the walls. Ceiling-mounted alarms should be 4 inches away from the wall; wall-mounted alarms should be installed 12 inches below the ceiling.

• Never install a smoke detector near doors, windows, ceiling fans, or vents, where drafts can circulate smoke without detection.

Installing smoke detectors is the first step in a good DIY fire prevention plan. But a smoke detector that doesn’t work won’t be of any use during an actual fire. Be sure to test your smoke detectors once a month and replace batteries once a year. Do you hear that chirping sound? That means the batteries are low and need to be replaced. Consider investing in long-life smoke detectors with batteries that can last for more than 10 years.

Fire Extinguishers

A fire extinguisher can be handy for containing small fires or controlling a fire until help arrives. A multi-purpose extinguisher is ideal for home use, and is available at your local home improvement or discount store. The National Fire Protection Association suggests choosing an extinguisher that carries the label of an independent testing laboratory. Place the extinguisher near an exit in an easily-accessible place, like a closet or cabinet. Read the manufacturer’s instructions and make sure that everyone in your family can locate and properly use the extinguisher.

Escape Planning

Your DIY fire prevention program should include an escape plan with at least two different exits from each room and a meeting point outside the home. Remove any obstructions from doors and windows. Take special consideration for anyone in your home who may have limited mobility or a disability, like children and elderly people. Practice your escape plan with your kids twice a year.

Identifying Weak Points

A good DIY-er should constantly keep a watchful eye out for any potential fire risks. Fire hazards can be avoided by:

• Repairing or replacing loose and frayed electrical cords.

• Being watchful of large home appliances –even dryers and washing machines can start fires. Never leave an appliance on when you are not home.

• Never leaving food unattended on a stovetop. According to the National Fire Prevention Agency, cooking fires are the number one cause of home fires, so take care to keep your cooking area free of combustible substances and flammable materials.

• Storing gasoline in approved metal or plastic containers away from any sources of possible ignition, like heaters.

• Keeping heaters, space heaters, and fireplaces free of any obstructions or flammable materials.

Education

Remember those “Stop, Drop, and Roll” drills? Teaching your children at an early age about the dangers of playing with fire and emergency procedures for escaping a fire can help keep them safe. Likewise, try to educate yourself about fire prevention and any new fire prevention products and procedures.

Fire is an important part of our daily lives, from cooking our food to heating our homes. With the right tips, tools, and caution, a DIY fire prevention plan can keep your family and home safe from fires.

About the Author
Ralph Winn. 35 years in the Home Security industry. Home Security Systems and Alarm Monitoring tips.

DIY Exterior Home Renovations

Homeowners with the time and expertise can perform many DIY exterior home renovations and with the right tools and equipment can accomplish many minor projects in a couple of days. Depending on your level of knowledge about construction, the types of projects that can be done as DIY exterior home renovations include new siding, gutters, window trim and even adding a patio to the house. Appropriate planning is the cornerstone for any home renovation project and unless you have performed this type of work previously, it will pay to look at the many aspects involved in a project. For all DIY exterior home renovations there will be materials needed and there may be some expensive equipment required, although for most rental companies will probably have what you need to get the job done without the added expense of buying equipment only used for one job.

Painting the exterior of a home is one of the DIY exterior home renovations that many people tackle, but before beginning the existing surface will have to be prepared to receive the fresh coat of paint. Whether the entire home is being painted, or just the exposed wood of a brick home will need to be sanded and clean to insure the finished job is smooth and looks professionally done.

The trouble many people run into with DIY exterior home renovations is trying to do everything at once and not properly planning out the sequence of the job. For example, if you are planning to paint the exterior, the first impulse may be to prepare all of the surface all around the house at once. If the job involves ladders or scaffolding, you will be setting it and moving it for each side of the building.

It will save a lot of time doing DIY exterior home renovations if you set the ladders and scaffolding up on one wall and complete the entire job before moving everything to the next section. Doing it this way will save considerable time and when the final section is completed you are done. Instead of setting up the equipment at least twice for each segment of the project, it is set up once and done. If your experience level is questionable, do not hesitate to ask for tips and tricks to speed things along. The internet is a wealth of information for just about any DIY exterior home renovations you may be considering. By perusing the many site available you should be able to be an expert on all remodeling jobs, at least on paper.

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DIY Home Security

Most home security experts agree that homeowners have three major defenses against potential burglars:

• Light
• Time
• Noise

For the handy men and women of the world, ideas are probably already forming in your crafty heads for ways to tackle these areas of home security yourself. Do-it-yourself home security can be a very effective way to protect your family and your property without spending a bundle.

DIY Home Security: Light

Tonight, after dark, go stand in your yard. Look at is as if you are a potential thief. How dark is your yard? Are there shadowy patches near your door or windows? If you were a thief, would you feel relatively “safe” approaching your house?

If you discovered the answer to those questions is “yes,” don’t worry. As a do-it-yourselfer, there are lots of illuminating ways you can protect your home and family:

• Trim hedges and trees – especially those near doors and windows. Don’t give potential intruders an easy place to lurk. All the light in the world won’t eliminate the shadows cast by out-of-control shrubbery.

• Install motion sensor lights in your yard. For under $30, you can install a wireless, outdoor, weatherproof light designed to illuminate your yard anytime it detects motion. Whether it brightens the path between your car and your door, or casts light on a trespasser approaching your home, this do-it-yourself security device is well worth the money.

• Put your lights on timers when you go out of town. A house that sits dark day after day is a potential advertisement to thieves. For around $70, you can put your lights on timers and schedule them to turn on at various times of the day or night.

DIY Home Security: Time

Most burglars will only spend about 60 seconds trying to enter a home. Increase the time it takes to break into your home through some simple DIY techniques:

• Install dead-bolt locks on all exterior doors. Deadbolts are harder to pick and make it extremely difficult to kick down a door. For around $100, you can take security one step further with digital dead-bolts. These heavy-duty locks eliminate the need for keys – just punch in your access code to open your front door.

• Secure the locks on all windows. Most windows are designed to keep out the elements, not burglars. For about $3 a lock, you can replace your standard window locks with stronger sash-locks.

• Protect your sliding doors with a doorguard alarm. When wedged under the handle of your sliding door, this steel rod makes it very difficult (if not impossible) to open a sliding door. On top of that, a doorguard alarm emits a 120-decibel alarm if the door or door handle is moved – all for less than $30.
DIY Home Security: Noise

The final element to consider when tackling home security yourself is noise. If a burglar manages to creep through your well-lit yard, bypass your sturdy, time-consuming locks, and make it into your home, noise is your last line of immediate defense:

• Purchase a wireless alarm. Typically ranging from $200-300, wireless alarms systems are easy to install and ready to use. They don’t require programming and most of them include a piercing 110-decibel siren sure to wake the neighborhood and terrify intruders.

• Install an indoor motion detector. These security devices emit an alarm when they detect unauthorized motion inside your home. They’re easy to set up and easy on your wallet – a good motion detector costs around $120.

• Consider getting a dog. The ultimate in DIY home security noise is a barking dog. Not only is a dog a lovable member of the family, but it is also a great defense against potential intruders. Even a small barking dog is usually enough to deter a thief.

These are just a few of the many ways to secure your home yourself, without hiring professionals or spending a small fortune.

About the Author
Ralph Winn. 35 years in the Security System industry. Home Security and Alarm Monitoring tips.

Enhance Your Home: DIY Home Metal Roofing

The majority of people doing work on their home at the minute actually prefer to complete any renovations or repairs necessary on their own. With labour costs being so high and individuals having very little disposable income to play with then the rise in popularity of do it yourself comes as no surprise. You can also perform DIY home metal roofing work on your homes these days because of the availability of information. DIY home metal roofing should be a priority when it comes to making your home over because the roof is one of the most important elements of your home.

Preparing For DIY Home Metal Roofing

Anyone attempting DIY home metal roofing for the first time should make ample preparations before even starting work. You will need the plans of your home in order to plan out your DIY home metal roofing because without them you will not be able to measure or join the new roof effectively to prevent leakage of heat outwards and moisture inwards. After finding the plans to your home, you will need to study the steps to completing DIY home metal roofing because there is a specific order that you have to adhere to in order to make sure that it is done correctly.

Assessing DIY Home Metal Roofing

You must ensure that you give yourself enough time and a big enough budget in order to ensure that you complete your DIY home metal roofing on time. DIY home metal roofing projects almost always run over the time you allocate to get them done because it is a very complicated process. DIY tasks like this very rarely actually go according to plan!

DIY home metal roofing does take a lot of time and effort to complete. However, all of the time and effort that you do put into it is entirely worth it. The finished results are usually beautiful and compliment that house very well. It is aesthetically gorgeous as well as extremely functional. It is worth the money you spend and the hard labour, as you will see after the project is completed. For more info see http://www.homeroofinghelp.com/How_To_Install_Metal_Roofing on install metal.

The best tip that anyone could ever give you when it comes to DIY home metal roofing is to be prepared. Your organization must be excellent and the plans must be fantastically well laid out in order for DIY home metal roofing to stand a chance of success. If there is a weakness in your plan then you can guarantee that something will go wrong, as it usually does! Repeatedly plan everything time and time again before starting and think through different scenarios of what could go wrong, just in case it does!

About the Author
You can also find more info on metal roofing system and good metal roof . Homeroofinghelp.com is a comprehensive resource to known about metal roofing.
 

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