Ceramic Tile Installing Tricks

Ceramic tile installing is much the same whether your project is a floor, walls or a counter top. Get the basics ceramic tile installation right and you can do most any project successfully. Let's start with what you need for any tile project.

1.Tools

Gather your tile tools first. These are the basic tools, many of which you already have. Here's what you need:

• Plastic 5 gallon Buckets,
• Ceramic Tile Nippers,
• Tile Cutter Board,
• Hammer,
• Screwdriver,
• Notched Trowel,
• Margin Trowel,
• Chalk Line,
• Pencils,
• Tri Square,
• Spacers,
• Tape Measure,
• Level,
• Tile Sponge,
• Tile Saw.

You for sure need tile nippers. Then a tile cutter board is used for making clean straight cuts. A tile saw can make all the cuts needed. You can start with a small cheap saw and upgrade later.

2. A Solid Base

Many kinds of surfaces will work for a base, but the mounting surface needs to be solid. Old linoleum will work. Old tile will work. Concrete will work. But the best surface is usually cement board, Hardibacker board. It's rigid and adhesives stick to it just right.

3. The Right Adhesive

The pros use a wettable powder called thinset that's a masonry product. You can also use a pre-mixed adhesive with latex. For mixing wettable powder get a paint stirrer for use with your portable drill.

4. Careful With Spacing

To look great, the tile must be set evenly with consistent spacing. Mark off chalk lines as guide lines and then carefully keep the spacing between tiles consistent. Your tile suppliers stock plastic spacers that make keeping those spaces between the tiles uniform. Use those until you can eyeball the space and make it consistent. Part of the fun of laying tile is keeping the tile straight and level even though the tile size varies a little from tile to tile.

5. Grout Right

After the tile is set and dried in place, fill the spaces with grout. Grout can contain sand or not. Whether you use sanded grout depends partly on the size of the spaces between tiles. Grouts often contain latex additives to improve the performance. Sometimes installers choose epoxy grout for use in kitchens and bathrooms. Epoxy grout is waterproof and stain proof.

Puzzled about how to tackle a ceramic tile project? Like to see a video of a tile job like yours? Visit our site for more tips on ceramic tile installing. Al Bullington invites you to visit http://www.InstallingCeramicTile.net for answers to your ceramic tile questions. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Al_Bullington

Basic Deck Building Instructions

If you want to learn basic deck building, there are three steps you need to know. They are plan, build, and trim. I will explain these concepts in this article and show you how to build that deck you always wanted.

The first step in basic deck building is to plan. Determine where the deck is to be located and what the finished product will look like. Take measurements to determine the exact size you want, where the steps are going to be, if there are any doors to consider and where you want the railing to go. Now decide where and how everything will fit together.

Draw a plan showing dimensions, including the details such as the direction the deck boards will run. Is the new deck to be attached to the existing house or not? It is much easier if it is not attached. There will be fewer problems in the future.

Now plan the foundation, including supports. If you have any questions about how to size the support beams, someone at your local lumberyard with access to span tables can assist with the answers. ALWAYS make the beams large enough to support the load you anticipate.

The second step in basic deck building is to build the deck. Dig the holes for the support posts. Be sure to measure carefully as the posts are difficult to move after the concrete has set. Place the header joist at the ends and connect the joist to them either with joist hangers or by nailing through the header joist.

Make sure everything is square and level. Nail the deck boards to the joist, keeping them 1/8 inch apart. Start at the outside edge and work toward the house. Always get the first deck board straight and fit all other deck boards to it.

Nail every deck board with two nails at every joist to help keep things straight and keep the boards from cupping and warping. Cut the ends of the deck boards even with each other by using a chalk line to determine a straight line. The floor now is complete.

To make the railing, take the support post and trim them to a height of 35 inches or whatever the local requirements are in your area. Cut two supports to fit horizontally between the posts. Now cut balusters to fit from top to bottom. Nail the balusters into the previously cut support pieces 3 ½ inches apart. Stand them up and toe nail into the post.

Cap off with a clean (no knots) deck board on top of the post. Cut the corners at a 45 degree angle for a finished look.

The third and final step in basic deck building is to trim. Put some lattice around the bottom to keep critters and children out. Stain or wood sealer should be applied after the deck has cured.

If you follow these basic instructions of plan, build, and trim, you should be able to build a wood deck at your home. Check to determine if permits are required. If they are required, the building inspector will make sure you are in compliance with local building codes.

For more in depth instructions on basic deck building, including diagrams, please visit http://www.single-family-home-remodeling.com/deck-building.html today. Also, check out http://www.single-family-home-remodeling.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Altman

Low Cost Concrete Floor Staining

This is not an article for those looking how to acid wash concrete. This is about getting the same look, for less than half the cost of acid staining!

First off you need to gather your supplies. You can find them at any local home improvement store such as Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, etc. You will need solid concrete stain; I recommend two colors that complement each other i.e. a tan and a dark brown. Concrete sealer which comes in different sheens so decide if you want a flat look to your floor or a slightly shiny look, and get enough to seal your floors 6-8 times. You will also need a cheap gallon sprayer, just make sure it has an adjustable nozzle. A long handled roller with a semi-smooth nap and paint tray. And of course you will need plastic and painters tape to protect your other surfaces. And a large piece of cardboard or test space that you won't mind messing up.

Second, remove all furniture from the room and make sure you prep your surface and surrounding surfaces well. I recommend covering 4-6 feet up the wall so you avoid over-spray and having to touch up paint. Make sure you vacuum or sweep really well because whatever is on your floor will be on your floor forever once you start the process.

Now, you are ready to begin! Mix up concrete stain because just like paint, it separates and needs to be mixed. Carefully, off your surface, pour stain in your sprayer. Replace cap and if needed pump sprayer to prepare for spraying. Test your pattern on some cardboard or some other space you don't mind messing up; I tried it on my garage floor. Make sure to keep the sprayer a few feet away from the floor, otherwise you will get puddles of stain when you are looking for splatters of stain. When you are comfortable with the look you are creating, go to work on your prepped floor. Keep in mind, you are not trying to completely cover the floor, you are trying for a natural stone look. When doing the edges I recommend aiming a couple feet up off the floor to get all the way to the edge and not puddle, but still get the splatter look you are going for. Make sure you work yourself out the door instead of into a corner...you don't want to stand around waiting for it to dry for 4 or so hours! Pour any left over stain back into it's original container, and clean out the sprayer so it's ready for your next color! The whole process shouldn't take very long, my 130 square foot room only took me about 45 minutes to put one coat on.

Then, wait the recommended time before you start the second coat. After the first coat is dry, repeat the process from the first coat, filling in the areas you had less splatter in and covering the areas you had too much of the other color on. Again wait for the second coat to dry. If you are happy with the way your pattern turned out, continue on to sealing your floor. If you are not completely happy with your stain pattern, keep layering the different colors until you are happy with the pattern. The sealer will not change the look, unless you got a semi-shiny sealer, it will simply seal it so it doesn't scratch. I did three coats and for the third coat I used a hand sprayer so I could get a finer mist and a smaller area to worry about, because the bleach sprayer has a wider area it covers.

When you are ready, pour your sealer in a roller tray, get a good amount on your roller, just like you would paint, and start rolling the floor. Again, don't forget to roll yourself out of the room instead of into a corner! Then, wait the recommended time for the sealant to dry, then proceed with the rest of the coats waiting in between for each coat to dry.

You're done! Remove your plastic and coverings, move the furniture back into the room and enjoy your space!

http://womensdiyessentials.blogspot.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kristen_Cummins

Choosing Wood For Your Projects - Softwood and Hardwood

Two main types of wood are softwood and hardwood. Another popular choice is manufactured wood like plywood. Which type of wood you choose to use for your projects depends upon a variety of factors including: budget and cost, needed strength, hardness, grain characteristics and coloring, stability, weight, durability and availability.

Softwood

Beginning word crafters most often start out using softwood like pine because as it's soft, it's easier to work, plus you don't need expensive tools to get quality results. Pine is readily available at local lumberyards and home centers, note that it does have limitations in furniture making since it is a soft wood and can damage easily.

Softwood comes from a coniferous (cone-bearing) or an evergreen tree. Popular varieties include fir, pine, cedar, spruce, hemlock and redwood. Although these types of woods are used a lot in the home construction industry in flooring and other projects, redwood and cedar are excellent choices for outdoor projects like benches, and pine is used a lot in "Early American Country Style" bench and other furniture projects.

Couple of tips:

- Pine and other softwoods generally absorb and lose moisture more than hardwoods, hence they are not considered as stable.

- Buy your lumber at least two weeks before starting your project and keep it indoors.

- You can usually find softwoods in standard thickness and widths like 1 X 4 at 3/4"
thick and 3 1/2" wide, similar to construction materials.

Note that wood is most often priced per lineal foot, with the price increasing accordingly for wider boards.

Hardwood

Hardwood lumber comes from deciduous trees. Among the main domestic varieties are maple, oak, birch, cherry, ash, walnut and poplar. Poplar and red oak are those commonly stocked in home centers and lumberyards. And stock is generally sold in similar dimensions as it is in softwood, also by the lineal foot. You can call ahead to see what types of wood are available and in what sizes at specialty lumber and construction supply stores.

Working with hardwoods is quite different from working with pine. For example, you cannot drive a screw through hardwood lumber without first boring a pilot hole. Plus cutting as well as planing hardwoods requires very sharp tools.

Hardwoods like ash and oak are known as open-grain woods, with alternating areas of relatively porous and dense wood, and are good to use with furniture crafting. Open-grain areas absorb the color readily when stained, while the harder areas are more resistant. This tends to accentuate the grain patterns and can create a dramatic effect.

For more information about flooring, visit: http://www.tipsonflooring.com Visit, subscribe to and bookmark: http://myhomeimprovementtips.com for your home improvement projects & tips. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jim_Ames

Fixings Squeaking Stairs in Older Homes

Oh yes the common problem of squeaking stairs in an older house. This could become very frustrating and annoying as you walk up and down the stairs. There seems to be one or two stair treads that are always squeaking. That annoying sound as you walk as softly as you can on your way down to the kitchen in the middle of the night to grab a quick snack.

The number one cause of squeaking stairs is when the nails used to fasten the stair tread to the stair strainers has worked its way loose. Over time as the lumber shrinks in the stair treads and the stairs stringers. You will start to develop a separation or a gap between the stair tread and the stair strainer.

The stair stringer can shrink as much as 3/8 of an inch in just a few years. I was building a home and went to measure the stair stringer that was 11 1/2 inches wide originally. Then I measured it after two months outside in the summer sun it now measured 11 1/16". I was amazed that the lumber could shrink that much in such a short period of time.

As the stair stringer shrinks it starts to pull away from the plywood or hardwood stair tread. As it starts to separate from the stair tread the nail will stay in its original position until the stair tread starts to put pressure on the nail eventually lifting it up a little bit higher than its original position.

As you step on the stair tread the squeaking sound you hear is the nail rubbing against the stair tread. There are a few ways to fix a squeaking stair tread. If you have access to under the stairway you can apply some adhesive along with a 10 inch 2 x 4 under the stair tread and attach it to the stair stringer.

First apply adhesive to two sides of the 2 x 4. The adhesive will be used to glue the stair tread to the stair stringer. You can use screws to screw the new 2 x 4 onto the side of the stair stringer.

If you cannot access the underside of the stairs and you have carpeting you can actually locate the stair stringer and drive a 2 inch screw through the carpeting in to the stair stringer. This will pull the stair tread down and will not allow it to rub up against the nail making that awful sound of a squeaking stair case.

If you have a finished wood stair tread you will not be able to screw through it into the stair stringer without damaging the finish on tread itself. It will be easier to access the stair stringer from below somehow and apply the 2 x 4 with the adhesive to stop the stair squeak.

You can apply these methods to as many stair treads that are squeaking without taking apart the entire staircase and rebuilding it.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry. Stair Building Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_Vandenberge

Easy Ways to Repair a Hole in Your Wall

by Rob Carlton

It is extremely easy to make holes into a wall, however it is extremely difficult to fix a hole if you already have one. Actually it’s not that difficult, there are some easy steps that you can follow to make the job easy.

1. Measure the size of the hole

You need to work out the size of the hole that you want to repair as different sizes of holes require different methods of repair. If it’s a very small hole then simply patching it with some compound is enough. When it has dried then you should sand back the spot for an even finish.

If the hole you want to repair is a bit bigger, perhaps as big as a light switch box then you should fill the hole with some newspaper before you apply the compound. This means that you don’t need to use as much compound.

For holes that are around 30cmx30cm you should use hot patching. This means that you fill the hole with some drywall.

For very large holes in your wall you will need to treat them as new areas that need recovering. Start by removing any nails and screws that are sticking up through the plasterboard. Cut a new piece of dry walling and secure it into place, then tape and finish as normal.

So first thing to do is to measure the hole and then see what method is suitable.

2. Preparation

When you’ve found the right technique to fix your hole then you need to make sure you have everything you need in order to fix it. You will need some specific supplies in order to complete the project. When the compound is mixed you need to work quite quickly so that you don’t risk it drying too quickly.

If you are filling a large hole then make sure that the drywall is already cut to shape before you mix the compound. Make sure you double check any measurements so that everything is correct.

3. Don’t Over Spackle

If you have a large hole then simply applying compound isn’t good enough because there’s nothing for the compound to stick to. This patch will almost certainly crack or fall out in the near future. You should apply as little compound as possible and make sure it is smooth and even. Applying too much compound means that you will have a long time sanding down the excess!

4. Be patient

When you are trying to complete any project then you need to be patient as it won’t all be possible over night. If you try to sand the compound before it is completely dry then you will make a lot of mess and you might have to start again from the beginning. You need to consider that you need some time to relax, you can’t spend all of your time on these projects.

5. Sanding and Finishing

The compound might look like its smooth, but it’s not. You need to sand it the best you possibly can. There might be very small bumps which you don’t notice. Sand down the area so that the wall is completely smooth before painting.

Being especially passionate about replacing basement windows and basement replacement windows, Rob Carlton is writing various news in the area. You might come across his observations on basement windows at http://www.replacement-windows-tips.com and many different sources for basement windows knowledge.

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Planters Made from PVC Look Like Wood

Planters are a great way to add curb appeal to businesses and homes. Planters can be made from almost any material and cast planters have traditionally been the most popular. Cast iron and cement planters are very typical and offer a beautiful look to complement a front entrance to a home or building. Cedar planters are very popular in front of commercial entrances, especially restaurants. Vinyl planters have popped up as a nice affordable alternative to wood that will not rot and PVC planters have come on strong, emerging as an upgrade over vinyl capturing the look of wood and none of the maintenance issues.

The benefits of planters are obvious. They add curb appeal to almost any home or business. Each material choice for planters offer a different asset and look that is unique. Wood planters have always been a popular choice, especially cedar, cypruss, and teak. A good wood planter will typically last 5 years before mother nature begins to take her course. The vinyl planters are able to beat out mother nature in that respect, but have suffered from not being able to be painted and having a shiny finish to them. To solve that puzzle, PVC planters are now available which are paintable and have a matted finish to them. They can be manufactured in custom styles cheaper because they do not require custom moulding. Another advantage to PVC planters is that matching window boxes can be custom built. There are very few materials that can function as both planters and be mounted as window boxes on a home or commercial building. PVC window boxes are the gold standard in the window box industry and matching planters have become increasingly more in demand.

Many businesses nowadays are in need of custom planters that can be long and narrow or wide and tall to fit a specific need. At times, the need is for a corner planter or a long freestanding planter between columns. If you are going to spend money to have custom planters built for your business, consider what your expectations and needs will be down the road 5-10 years. Do you need something custom? Is there a type of look you're trying to achieve? Does it need to match the home or building? Is cost an issue? If you know the answers to those questions, then you will know exactly what material will best suit your needs for commercial planters.
Matt Buquoi owns Flower Window Boxes - a manufacturing company that makes custom window boxes and PVC planters. He regularly consults with business owners to add curb appeal to their businesses.

This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_556703_27.html

Building your own storage shed foundation

The first step to building a shed is the foundation. A well built foundation is fundamental to your storage shed.


Before starting your shed foundation, check your local building code to make sure you will have no regulation issues. Check with
your local zoning to make sure if there are any distance requirements from the property line, your house, etc..

Now that you are aware of any regulations, you can determine the location.

When choosing a location pay careful attention to the drainage. Try choosing a location where water will not pool. Sloping the ground will direct water so it will not pool near your shed foundation.

If you will be using a skid foundation, adding crushed gravel about three to four inches thick, and about a foot wider than the shed will also help protect your shed foundation from water and moister.

Unlike a skid foundation, a concrete slab foundation will be permanent, once it is poured it can not be moved. Building a concrete slab foundation starts with leveling the site. Then you will build your forms and position a layer of welded wire mesh to provide reinforcement and help prevent cracking. Next the concrete is cast over it.

If you do not feel comfortable making your own concrete slab foundation, consider hiring a professional.

Although you can build a shed on a concrete slab, the majority of storage sheds are built on skid foundations.

When choosing lumber to build your skid foundation, choose pressure treated lumber to prevent decay. Prepare the area by removing four to six inches of soil about twelve inches wider than the shed, and fill with gravel.

Building the foundation for your shed is not that difficult, but you should take into consideration weather or not you have the skills. Will you have the time, and the tools.

One of the great advantages of doing it yourself is the money you will be saving. By making a shopping list of all the material, you can get a good estimate for the price of this project. You can then compare your estimate to having it done. About half the cost of any project is the labor, by doing it yourself you can even go for a larger shed with the same budget.
For more information on sheds, and how to build a shed visit my site at www.MyBackyardPlans.com I have also gathered a list of free shed plans and low priced shed plans

This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_556974_27.html

How to Put Up Fencing

Putting up your own fencing can be done very easily without the need to pay anyone to do it!

Firstly

* Buy your fencing! Obviously!

* Along with your fencing you will need to buy wooden posts! If you have 6ft high fencing you will need 7ft high posts and if you have 4ft high fencing you will need 5ft high posts etc.

* You will also need metal spikes that go into the ground about 2ft and which your posts slot into and are bolted to the posts

*So.... all you need to do now it put in the first spike where you want the fencing to go and slot your post into it! Then secure the first fence panel to the post with screws at the top and the bottom (about 1ft from the top and 1ft from the bottom) Then secure the next post into the ground using another spike and secure the other side of the fence panel to the 2nd post!

* Complete this process for all your fencing and it is as secure and having concrete posts! More importantly its an awful lot cheaper.

* I have fencing completed by myself at the front and back of my house and they have been in place now for 4 and 6 years respectively with no problems. All you have to do it treat the posts and fencing once a year. Fencing and posts usually come with a 10yr guarantee in most places.

Paul Ogden writes on DIY related issues. You can learn more by visiting my blog, DIY Ideas
http://www.diy-ideasforyou.blogspot.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Ogden

Distressed Painted Furniture - Learn How to Do It to Add Value by John Alford

Combination of the craftsmanship with art serves in arriving of the evolution of new painting designs for furniture. Troubled furniture can be brought into perfect shape with the help of creation of new painting designs. Distressed furniture can be brought into a typical antique by whitewashing and painting with modern color paints. The stylish options available in transforming the distressed furniture into a modern art make your home a perfect living environment. The furniture stylish tones arise from the moderate hues to the fragment distressed classic to downy form makes the furniture suitable for all occasions. Some of the vibrant colors suitable for painting of furniture arise from the natural domestic maple; Brazilian Cheery and exotic tarque are some of the suitable colors that provide attraction to the furniture and to the living room.

The distressed furniture is remodeled and painted for success in environmentally friendly situations, and they add a nice touch to the surroundings. A distressed piece of furniture is usually transformed from generations and the paint from such furniture would have been worn out, and it flakes of when touched with hard movements. In the recent days, the distressed furniture can be transformed into brand new furniture with the addition of style and paintings. Painting the worn out areas in the furniture adds touch and fixing of beautiful designs in the broken area covers completely the affected parts and offers a look of antique piece and really admires the surrounding of the living area. Some of the objects that cause distressing factors are the piece of furniture and wooden frame. The essential requirements for rectifying the distressed objects are satin latex paint preferred for the basecoat and topcoat, tools for painting, steel wool, candle, sand scrapper, waste tack cloth and polyurethane for polishing the distressed furniture.

There are several ways to create distressed painted furniture. The first step is to discover the model of the painted furniture and to locate the distressed areas in the furniture. Painting with two colors graciously serves in providing new look to the furniture. Top coating of the furniture makes the rubbed areas to look better. Sanding of the distressed furniture assists in providing good and new look to the furniture. Sanding processes should be tacked with cloth to remove the extra dirt from the furniture and offers glossy look. The wood exposed in the distressed areas of the furniture could be cleared by painting with the topcoat paint. The paint for the furniture could be selected according to the color in the specified room and provides great contrast. The painting of topcoat covers the distressed and affected areas in the furniture. Topcoat paint should be selected with brighter colors, and it promotes look for the furniture. After painting the distressed furniture the basecoat should let to dry and after that the areas should be sanded off to provide smoothness. Rubbing of candle wax in the places of holes to be visibly seen promotes a clean covering for the furniture. Filling of candle wax with great colors promote attraction of the furniture the entire sides and back of the furniture should be cleanly waxed and painted with topcoat and basecoat to provide a complete finish to the distressed furniture. This process makes the furniture look great and provides a lovley antique appearance.

http://www.goarticles.com/cgi-bin/showa.cgi?C=955126

PART 2 - For part two of this article, head on to Distressed Painted Furniture Part 2 where you can also find stunning insights on Outdoor Furniture - Commercial.

Tile Trims and Edging

Tile trims. What are they?

Tile trims have been around for many years now. These are long strips of molded plastic with the average length of 2.2m - 2.4m. They come in a variety of depth and colours. The thickness varies considerably to accommodate the ever increasing multitude of tiles. Most commonly used are either white or light pastel colours to nearest matching the tiles or grout colour. Most common sizes used are 6 - 8mm but as the current fashion is to have medium to large format tiles, 9 - 12mm trims are starting to dominate the UK market.

What are they used for?

Although some tile trims can be used on internal corners, the one most people see and purchase in shops are for external corners and are mainly used for protecting the tiles external edges, where two tiles meet at 90° with each other. Using the tile trim, lets the installer avoid using the "Jolly" tiles; these tiles have one edge mitred, usually by the tile manufacture, at 45° and give a nice finish to a square corner. Unfortunately some tile shops will not stock these tiles as the mitred edges are prone to break during transport. These tiles are also much dearer than the plain ones and tile trim offers a cheaper alternative.

What type of finishes are there?

The aesthetic of a tile trim can enhance or detract from the tiling project and you will (as usual) pay more for better and/or a nicer one. Within the plastic range you may find matt, silk or glossy finishes, open shoulder or closed, multi height adjustable and an end cap and int./ext. corner kit on some brands.

Tile trims can also be found in simulated chrome, brass, simulated brass, stainless steel, chromium plated brass, aluminium, anodised aluminium, gold and chrome bright anodised aluminium, coated aluminium, marble effect with matching listello borders. The edges can also differ, as you can get these in round or square face. Some square edge trims could also be used as a listello or border to separate rows of tiles but will require a straight and flat surface to tile on to.

Other tile trims are suitable for use for vinyl. These have an open section that will accommodate a vinyl skirting (mostly used on commercial businesses).

Floor tile trims are commonly used for bridging between the tile and other coverings such as carpet, vinyl and wood.

If the tile installer has not before used tile trim, he/she will find cutting these, quite tricky at first, as you would need to make sure you are cutting it the right way round. This will differ depending on if it is a window revere or a section of boxing. There are different ways of cutting tile trims but the common way is to use a mitre box and a small toothed saw.

If you require some tile trims for use with mosaic tiles, these can be found in stainless steel and are approximately 3mm thick. Some special tile metal trims can also be purchased, like the formable trim. This is used to contour around wavy obstacles like pillars, by using a tile trim forming tool. Formable trims are also suitable for floor as well as for wall tiling.

Come and find out more on the Tile Master website. http://www.tile-master.co.uk/html/trims___edging.html Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Franco_Abitabile

How to Make Decorative Concrete Planters, Bistro Tables and Artistic Vessel Sinks

Recently I did a review on a new video which shows how to build boutique items like concrete planters, bistro tables and artistic vessel sinks.

The video teaches a unique method of creating a veined marblized artistic result with the use of various types of molds.

What I discovered was a substantial increase in traffic to my site and visitors spending a lot of time reading the content. Numerous e-mails revealed to me that specialty decorative items made with concrete may be more in demand than concrete countertops.

Also interesting that the bulk of visitors came from Metropolitan markets and coastal areas. It appears that demand is high in affluent markets for custom concrete planters, coffee and bistro tables, shower bases, artistic vessel sinks, tile and garden items.

My product reviews and research indicates that this niche market is poised for expansive growth.

It comes at a time when many companies are expanding into new concrete mixes, reinforcements, lightweight concrete, tooling, sealers and design. As more quality products are built by innovative artisans with the help of manufacturers many forms of media are showcasing concrete in homes and commercial spaces.

Architects and designers as they become more educated about the potential of concrete are using it in more of their projects.

It's not just interest from the USA markets. My site statistics revealed stronger interest in this topic then from anything else I have have reviewed recently.

Based on what I see happening this market is going to create lucrative business opportunities with a high level of creativity. Also fascinating is that this market will inspire what is happening with small items to be done on a large scale. In many cases it's it's hard to believe that people are still pouring bland gray concrete and covering it up when concrete offers so many decorative solutions.

Edward Winslow Blog http://www.metrocrete.com Video Channel http://metrocrete.tv Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Edward_Winslow

Cutting Bamboo WallCovering With a Chop Saw

Bamboo and grasscloth wallcoverings certainly look nice. And they definitely fit in with the current trend in eco-friendly designs. Bamboo textured wallcoverings are made from grass and are fast growing.Unlike hardwoods,which take many decades to mature, bamboo can be harvested in three to five years, regenerates without need for replanting and requires minimal fertilization or pesticides.

However, from the wallpaper hanger's point of view, bamboos can be a challenge. Grasscloth wallcoverings generally cut easily, but the thicker bamboos are, the more difficult they are to cut.

The method I have been using recently may not be the answer to all bamboo cutting problems, but it has certainly eliminated 75% of the problems I was having in cutting thick bamboo with a straight edge and in a time efficient manner.

In my opinion, I believe that paneling a job, where possible, is the best way to install bamboo wallpapers. The easiest method I have found to cut panels of bamboo wallcovering down to size is to use a circular chop saw. It may sound extreme, but it works well to cut the edges of the bamboo wallcovering cleanly and it is extremely quick and efficient - no more struggling to saw through the bamboo with tin snips.

At first, I used a 1/8" grinding blade in the chop saw. This works well on the darker bamboos, but can leave a slight burning mark on the lighter bamboo papers. The marks have not been severe enough to present a major problem and the paper can usually be placed to hide any marks that do appear, for example, by placing the paper against a window trim.

However, by experimenting, I have found that it is better to use a fine toothed tungsten-tip blade "reversed." This means placing the blade in the chop saw in the reverse direction - then it cuts the paper without marking it and also does not "grab" the material and cause problems when you are trying to cut.

The method I use is to:

1. Take a roll of bamboo wallcovering and make sure it is tightly rolled.

2. Stand the bamboo on end and tap gently to make sure the edges are straight.

3. Wrap blue masking tape tightly around each end - about 1 inch in from each end.

4. Place another piece of blue masking tape around the place where you intend to cut - this will depend on the size of the panels you want to use.

5. Place the bamboo in the chop-saw; hold on tight to the roll of paper and cut slowly.

This method will help to cut the bamboo wallcovering for paneling. It will not help for cutting the bamboo when you get to installing in the corners. There are different methods to cut for corners, including use of a template - but that is the topic of another article.

Before using this method of cutting bamboo, it would be important to try some experimental cuts first, to practice using the chop saw.

As with all wallpaper installation jobs, it is very important to prepare the wall surface properly before hanging the bamboo. One important tip is to tint the primer that you are using to match the backing color of the bamboo, so that if you do get any gapsin the paper it will not be noticeable.

Brian Hunter from Hunter WallCoverings has fifteen years experience hanging all types of wallpaper - from grasscloths and bamboos to English pulp, torn paper and weathered-stone. Visit us at http://www.designer-wallcoverings.com for more tips and techniques and a photo gallery of designer wallcoverings. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brian_J._Hunter

Kitchen Remodeling: Diy Tricks To Save You Money

There could be a number of reasons why you might be considering remodeling your kitchen. Maybe you’re a new home owner looking to get started on the “fixer-upper” house you just bought. Maybe you’ve been in the same house for twenty years and are simply looking to add a little variety and spice to your current dwelling. Whatever the reason, you probably don’t want to blow your life savings making sure your cabinets match your stove. Luckily, it is possible to get the look and feel you want without breaking the bank. Proper research, innovative design techniques and, most importantly, simple do-it-yourself projects can help turn your kitchen area from dishware disaster into flat-wear fabulous.

In order to rediscover your kitchen’s inherent style and beauty and stay within your budget, it is important to start with a cost effective, proven remodeling plan. Do your research –what types of remodeling plans can you find online or in specialty magazines? How much work will you do yourself? How much will you hire a contractor to work on? Are you hiring a designer? A finishing carpenter? A plumber? Electrician? Getting involved in a remodeling project without answers to these and similar questions can leave you frustrated and up to your eyeballs in unexpected side projects and expenses.

One of the best (and most fun) ways to cut remodeling costs is to choose a few smaller projects that you feel comfortable handling yourself. Cabinets, lighting fixtures and accessories are fairly simple, fun projects that don’t require a background in carpentry or construction. Do you really need to buy brand new cabinets? Perhaps all your current cabinets need is a good sanding and refinishing. Painting or staining freshly sanded cabinets can take years off their look, especially if you add new handles or other accessories. If your cabinets are too old or too damaged to be salvaged, look for replacement cabinets that will fit with your planned design scheme. New cabinets do not have to be a large expense. Look for wholesalers that can get you the latest cabinet styles at a lower cost or join a manufacturer buying group like Direct Buy to get direct access to products at the manufacturer’s price.

Another do-it-yourself, money saving project is painting. Before you pick a color scheme, consider how your kitchen relates to the rest of your home. Does the paint need to match what’s on your living room walls, or would it look better as a stark contrast? Would the kitchen look and feel better with warm, cozy reds and yellows or cool, sophisticated blues? Do you need to paint the whole kitchen or simply add a few fresh accents here and there? A few coats of a new color can dramatically change the newly remodeled kitchen area, and being creative with color combinations is an easy way to personalize your project. But be careful –like any aspect of your remodeling project, a hastily made decision can come around to bite you once the project is finished.

Lighting installation should be saved for qualified professionals, but that doesn’t mean you can’t design your lighting scheme yourself. Choose a lighting design that will match your kitchen’s layout and color scheme. Under-cabinet fluorescents and rope lights can add a romantic, ambient glow, but they might not offer enough light if you’ve chosen a dark blue, black or green color scheme. On the other hand, powerful overhead or spotlights might be overkill if you’ve chosen bright yellows or whites. Creating your own lighting scheme and buying your lighting fixtures and lamps directly from a local lighting wholesaler can save you money on a designer as well as make you feel even that much more involved in your remodeling process.

Of course, you probably won’t be able to handle every part of the remodeling process yourself. A good contractor can help you decide which parts of your kitchen should definitely be repaired or replaced and which can be simply touched up. Get bids from a number of contractors, remembering that while price is an important factor it shouldn’t be the only thing you consider. Make sure your contractor has a current license, proof of insurance, verifiable references and a list of suppliers. You should also pick someone that you feel comfortable working with. You’ll be spending a good deal of time with this person; choosing someone you don’t get along with will make your entire remodeling process a miserable one.

Remodeling your kitchen is a big endeavor. It can be frustrating and expensive, and the end product might not be what you had imagined in the beginning of the process. However, with just a little planning, patience and do-it-yourself know-how, it can be an exciting and cost-effective adventure.

~ Ben Anton, 2008

About the Author

Learn more about buying direct from the manufacturer appliances, furnitures and fixtures available from Direct Buy of Los Angeles stores.

Published At: www.Isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=260646&ca=Home+Management

5 tips to install a gazebo – do it yourself

Are you looking for a separate space to have breakfast with your family?
Or are you looking for a separate place in the backyard to have some fun with your close friends?

You can think about installing a gazebo in the backyard or in the garden.

Gazebos are great as a special space. You can select from different gazebo designs, styles and shapes depending on home architecture and your personal choice. Even if you want to buy a ready to use Gazebo, you can customize it to fit your space and choice. For example you can opt for different screens and flooring materials apart from shapes and roof. At the same time you may also go for mix and match to find out the best combination.

However, a lot of people do not know where to install their gazebo and thus the gazebos do not add as much value as they could. Here are a few tips to help you decide the best location to install your gazebo.

1. Location to install a Gazebo – Normally gazebos are placed in the backyard or at place surrounded with great scenic beauty. However, before buying a gazebo you should make sure that there is enough empty space which would eventually highlight the gazebo as a special attraction. This would also underline your individuality and lifestyle.

2. Shape and Size of Gazebo – The shape of your gazebo should depend on the architecture of your house and the shape of the free space where you are thinking to install it. You may also consider the number of people you are thinking of accommodating together in that gazebo (for example a 10’ gazebo is comfortable for 4 people and a 12’ gazebo is good enough for 6 people). Depending on all these parameters, you can decide the shape and size of your gazebo. But make sure that there is enough empty space around the gazebo. Do not forget to measure the actual available space before you place an order.

3. Water Source – If you want to install a normal gazebo, it is better to keep it away from water sources, or areas that may collect or store water. However, if you are planning to add a hot tub or spa in that gazebo, you must have a water source close to it. In that case you may think about buying a complete hot tub gazebo. The complete package will not only save some money, they are specially built to endure wet atmosphere.

4. Permission - If you are planning to install a gazebo which is more then 100 sq. ft. in size, you should consult local municipality for proper permission. However, if the size is less than 100 sq. ft. they will not have any problem on zoning.

5. Do it yourself gazebos – If you do not want to employ some professionals to install the gazebo, you may go for ‘do it yourself gazebo’. Theses gazebos are just ready to install within a few minutes and they come with step by step instructions.

These are some primary parameters that you may consider before setting up a gazebo.
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_550367_27.html

TV Wall Mount Installation - 5 Things You Need To Know Before Wall Mounting Your Flat Panel TV

While you can certainly save some money by mounting your flat panel plasma or LCD TV on the wall by doing it yourself, there are a few considerations that you should take into account before setting out to do the job.

1. Get the Correct Wall Mount for Your TV's Application

TV wall mounts come in a variety of sizes and application types. You need to know how you want to use your TV in your daily life before choosing the wall mount. Will you be viewing it from a variety of angles? If so, perhaps an articulating wall mount would make sense for you. That way, you can angle it toward your kitchen while you are cooking or for other similar situations. Think about your room layout. If you know your TV must be mounted higher than eye-level, then you should look for tilting wall mount. Plan ahead so that your viewing experience will be as enjoyable as you hoped when you decided on making the investment in a flat panel TV.

2. Get the Right Size Wall Mount for Your TV

Sizing the mount should be pretty straightforward. Most TVs and mounts are pretty standardized in sizing and bolt options. Purchase from a reputable vendor and you should be able to get good advice and recommendations on which size mount fits your specific TV.

3. Make Sure You Have Wooden Studs in Your Wall

It is surprising how many people jump into mounting a TV on their wall without knowing what is inside their wall. If you have wooden studs in your wall, the mounting job can be quite simple. Metal studs can cause problems that need a closer look to effectively resolve.

4. Read Your Lease if You Live in an Apartment

Before you go drilling in your apartment's walls, make sure it's kosher with your landlord. Otherwise, you could violate your lease and be susceptible for damage bills, or even get yourself evicted. If you would rather not read your lease, talk to your landlord or apartment manager about what you want to do.

5. Gather All Your Tools BEFORE You Start

Nothing makes a mounting job worse than having to look for tools or make a run to Home Depot for something you forgot while you have wires hanging out of the wall. By way of example, if you plan on mounting the TV on a Saturday morning, make a list of the tools you need on Friday night. If those are not in your immediate possession, take Friday night and run to Home Depot to buy the missing tool(s) or go borrow them from your neighbor. When Saturday rolls around, get the tools out first, then (and only then) proceed with the installation of the TV wall mount.

Hopefully, these tips will get you started on the right foot and save you some time and heartache along the way. The satisfaction you get and money you save from taking on a TV wall mount installation by yourself is rewarding. Just take the time and effort to get it right and your installation will go much more smoothly.

Read more about TV wall mount installation solutions at TV Wall Mount Guide. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eric_Dasan

Outdoor Wood Burning Fireplaces - 5 Easy Tips to Make the Right Fireplace Purchase

Especially in the fall and early winter everyone gathered around the fire place to stay warm and comfortable what a delightful feeling. Some wood burning fireplaces are safe enough to place on your patio for everyone to enjoy.

1. Use it in the right place

Just remember this is an outdoor product, not intended for use in doors.

2. Get the right materials

Before purchasing a wood burning fireplace to suit your desires and needs be sure to research the different types of material that the product is produced from. You have various materials to select from stainless steel, bronze, copper, granite, and last but not least mosaic tile finish. Make your choice on whether it matches your patio exterior dйcor, more outdoorsy appearance, or just your preference.

3. Check out the Safety

Lots of fireplaces come with different safety mechanisms to keep you and your family safe and prevent burns. The manufacturers keep in mind when building these products that children love to run and play in their yards and could possibly trip and fall or run directly into it. Some wood burning fireplaces have safety screens, removable protective lids, and for the adult safety in mind a safety mechanism is made into the product to assist with ash removal.

4. Transportation

Don't forget your wrought iron durable stand which comes in a variety of sizes from short to tall. Also available and should be considered if you plan of transporting your fireplace is folding legs to allow it to be placed in a carrying case. This will make the transportation very simple and easy so that you can take it with you any where you choose maybe a picnic, beach, pool party, or to another neighbor's backyard.

5. Look after the exterior

A very important thing to remember is that you want to ensure yourself that your wood burning fireplace will last for a long time. Remember that you need to consider the exterior of your fireplace. Most are made of rust resistant material which protects the exterior from rusting. Also another accessory to opt purchasing is a protective cover to add assurance to keeping rain, snow, or direct sunlight off your fireplace when not in use.

Looking for Outdoor Wood Burning Fireplaces Then visit our website! Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Frank_Fenway

Glass Fireplace Doors - Where and How to Buy Quality Glass Fireplace Doors

The glass fireplace door must shut extremely tight. When shut it should create an air tight seal. Glass is breakable. Glass fireplace doors are usually equipped with extremely thick and durable glass however sometimes they still break. So any fireplace owner should know the proper steps of buying replacement glass fireplace doors.

When buying glass fireplace doors you have to options online or offline. If you insist on shopping online then you'll need to measure your fireplace door in order to select a correct replacement. Glass fireplace doors are usually pretty heavy so you'll need to accommodate for any shipping fees. You will normally only be charged shipping fees if you want the door delivered right to your door. If you go though Lowes or Home Depot you can get it delivered to the store for free of charge shipping.

If you are going to purchase a glass fireplace door by going to the store then you won't have to take any measurements. Just take the door to the store with you. You'll have to remove the door though. Each fireplace door is removed a different way. It shouldn't be too difficult to figure out. Sometimes you can get the glass in the door replaced instead of replacing the entire door which will save money. If the store doesn't have them in stock you'll be required to wait until they can get them in stock.

To save some money you can always install the glass into the door yourself. The process isn't that difficult. Anyone should be able to accomplish such a small task. Ask the store manager or employee how to do so just in case. You might need to purchase new materials as well.

Looking for Glass Fireplace Doors Then visit our website! Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Frank_Fenway

How to Buy a Superior Fireplace

From the beginning of time fireplaces were used to heat homes, cooking, boiling water, and for light which gave people added security in the dark. In the winter the fireplace was the most used product in the home which made it very important to construct and maintain it properly.

Fireplaces have come a long way in designs, types, styles, and efficiencies. With there being a larger variety of fireplaces to choose from it is very important to base your decision of your research and exposure to make your selection a more effective one for you and your family. Every manufacture creates a different quality of fireplaces whether they are indoor or outdoor, gas, electric, or wood.

The old saying "you get what you pay for" can be a very important phrase to remember prior to purchasing a fireplace. You must consider how much money you can budget for this product. Then do price comparisons of different manufactures and what they have to offer. Most importantly be sure to pose questions about a warranty. This could give you proof that the manufacture is sure of their products and that they know it is a durable product.

The Superior Fireplace is very high quality, it is produced by Lennox, and this particular manufacture offers a 20-year warranty on all their fireplaces. They are known for their great durability, and magnificent performance. Superior also offers a variety of fireplace accessories that can help you maintain, operate, and keeping your family and home safe from any fire damage. Superior also offers a feature on their website so that you can perform price comparisons, ask questions, receive answers, search different accessories, view every fireplace that Superior has to offer, and the different photos of fireplace styles and designs. This will allow you the privilege to choose your fireplace to suit you and your family's desires and needs.

Looking for Superior Fireplaces Then visit our website! Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Frank_Fenway

Stone Outdoor Fireplaces - 5 Tips For Buying a Stone Outdoor Fireplace

Delivery

Remember Stone Outdoor Fireplaces are made of stone. Stone is extremely heavy. So if you are going to get the parts shipped accommodate for shipping costs. If you are going to pick them up yourself make sure you bring a few people with you to help you care the heavy load.

Assembly

The assembly process associated with stone outdoor fireplace can be a tedious one. The stones are very heavy. Everything must be perfectly positioned. If you feel uncomfortable assembling the fireplace yourself you'll need to accommodate for assembly fees.

Add-ons

Stone outdoor fireplaces can be equipped with several fantastic add-ons. For example, a stone outdoor fireplace can also be used as a barbecue grill. If you plan on barbecuing outside them this is something you'll want to consider. Why not kill two birds with one stone? Other extra features are available.

Source of Heat

The source of heat you want to use is extremely important. You have three main options gas, wood, or electric. Electric will increase your electric bill while decreasing your heating bill. Gas will not increase your heating or electric will but will increase your gas bill. Wood will increase no bills but wood can cost a lot. If you are looking for a home dйcor type of fireplace go with wood. Wood fireplaces produce the real flames while electric and gas only mimic them.

Location

The location where you intend to install your stone outdoor fireplace is extremely important. You'll want to position it where everybody can see. However, you'll need to make sure everybody is going to be able to feel the heat it produces as well. The BTU rating will help you determine this. Each fireplace has a BTU rating somewhere on its outer body.

Looking for Stone Outdoor Fireplaces Then visit our website! Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Frank_Fenway

The Secret to Wallpaper Removal - What You Need to Know For Fast and Easy Wall Paper Removal

Removing wallpaper can be one of the most frustrating DIY projects. However with this guide you will be able to keep your sanity and remove wallpaper more efficiently. Don't miss out on these ideas!

Materials Needed:

Screwdriver

Wallpaper Perforating Tool

Spray Bottle for Wallpaper Solution

Wallpaper Solution

Garbage Bags

Sponge

Painters Tape

Sand Paper

Safety Glasses and Breathing Mask

Prep of the wall - Turn off the power breaker, and then remove all the switch and outlet covers. Once those are removed you can apply blue painters tape to the baseboards and outlets this can help protect your baseboard and outlets from scratches. Although tape is not required it can be beneficial to use, especially if you are going to be painting afterword.

You're First Cut - You first need to make a few cuts into the wallpaper. This can be done with a perforation tool; one can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes. Make sure you don't apply so much pressure that it cuts into the drywall.

Wallpaper Solution - Now you will spray or sponge on a wallpaper removal. You can purchase chemical concoctions for wallpaper removal from any home improvement store that will accomplish this. However the same effect can be had without losing 8 bucks, get a spray bottle and mix a cup of vinegar to every gallon of water. Make sure you mix it with as hot as you can stand water. This will do essentially the same thing. If your solution gets cold it will not be as effective, so you may want to remix so you have hot water in your solution. You can also use fabric softener to remove stubborn wallpaper.

Peeling the Wallpaper - You will now wait about 10 minutes for the solution to soak into the wallpaper. Once soaked you can begin removing the wallpaper. First peel of as much wallpaper as you can with your hands. You will want to pull away the wallpaper at about a 45 degree angle. Once you have peeled off as much as you can spray your solution on the wallpaper again. Let the solution soak for a few minutes; then begin scraping of the wallpaper. When scraping off the wallpaper you will want to use a 3 inch scraper. Use a plastic scraper instead of metal; metal scrapers are more probe to leaving dents and dings. When you are scraping make sure you don't scrape too hard, otherwise you may have to repair damage you caused.

Stubborn Piece of Wallpaper - One of the worst things about wallpaper removal is that stubborn little piece of wallpaper that will not come off. For those stubborn pieces you can get a piece of sandpaper and actually sand it off. The sandpaper can also be used to remove stubborn glue from the wall. You can hand sand or use a sander to clean off those stubborn pieces. If you do sand the wall you will want to make sure you are wearing a mask, wearing safety glasses and are working in a ventilated area.

Wash the Wall - Once you have removed the wallpaper make sure you wet down and wash the walls with fresh water. Use a sponge to clean off any residue that is still on the wall. It is important you wash the walls a few times so that there are no problems with residue when you paint or do something to the wall.

If you need more DIY tips visit us at http://www.protoolbelts.com/home.php Jaxson Smith - Please feel free to visit us for the best Tool Belts and Tool Pouches We also carry specialty tool belts and other accessories. ToolBelts Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jaxson_Smith

Learn More About How to Drywall

Keep in mind that dry walling looks a lot easier then it is, however, you can get into the hang of it when you work closely next to a professional. Perhaps it is time to ask your friend for that favor he owes you. You will want to get all the tools before you start dry walling. You will need to have things like a putty trail, tray, sandpapers, joint putty, a scraper, a hammer, paint, paint thinner, plaster, and dry wall tape. You will need to look at the area that you wish to dry wall and figure out exactly what it is that you would like to do. A lot of people will use the putty to place the sheets together and feel the cracks, but then some like to use tape. You could use them both together to get the best finish. Keep in mind that if you have never hung dry wall before, that it may be best to have someone with you who is experienced.

Dry walling a home is easier said than done; however, it is never as difficult as some lead you to believe. To getting your start in dry walling you should follow a few very easy steps. What kind of tools are you going to need? You will need a Putty Trial, Tray, sandpaper, and joint putty, scraper, hammer, paint, thinner, patches, plaster, and a few other items to finish the task. Of course, it depends on the size of the area as to what exact tools and materials are needed.

You should never start a drywall project until you have prepared the area. This means that you may have to wash the wall so that no dust gets trapped into the dry wall. You will also want to keep in mind that you may have to smooth or even out the wall, incase the paneling has warped.

Once you have hung your dry wall, you will need to get ready to paint, however, you will need to cover up the many drywall nails that you have used. You will find that you may even need to sand the dry wall in some areas so that it looks spotless. You will want to consider doing everything you can to make the walls look natural.

As for the paint you can go to any of the local hardware stores and paint the walls whatever it is that you desire. Keep in mind that newly hung drywall will need a coat or two of primer. This is because the paper on the dry wall will soak up the paint. You will want to make sure that you use the primary or you will be wasting a lot of paint.

Dry walling is not hard, but you have to know what you are doing in order for it to look right.

Concentrating recent findings in price of drywall, the reviewer published at large for http://www.insidewoodworking.com You might discover his articles on drywall prices at insidewoodworking.com. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kurt_A._Schefken