Bread Board

This project has been designed to exhibit the ease of tongue-and-grooving using your Triton workcentre. The tongue-and-groove joint is a particularly strong way of joining boards together, firstly because of the interlocking nature of the joint and secondly because of the considerable increase in gluing area that results. If you are looking for good fitting tongue-and-grooves, the quality of your cut is all important. We suggest that you use a 40 or 60 tooth saw blade (a tungsten-tipped blade is best). If your saw has some movement between the saw motor and its baseplate, you may have to tighten up your saw (refer to operator’s manual) or obtain a Triton Saw Stabilizing Bracket which will hold your saw rigid.

Tool Requirements

1. ESSENTIAL: Triton workcentre and your power saw. Measuring tape, square, medium and fine sandpaper, pencil. 2. USEFUL: Chisel, gluing clamps, Triton sanding disc, G-clamp.

Component Specifications

View Specifications

General Points

1. If your material is not uniformly dressed and straight, you will find it difficult to make accurate tongue-and-grooves. Check your material with a square before starting, and if necessary square it up using the planing technique shown in the instruction manual. 2. The shopping list specifies slightly more wood than is absolutely necessary. This is so you have some material spare for test cuts. Always make test cuts on scrap before doing cuts on your workpieces. 3. Material supplied by your timber merchant as dressed will have its width and thickness dressed, but the end sections of your material may well be rough sawn. Clean up these end sections by making trimming cuts, using your workcentre in the crosscut mode.

Material Shopping List

1. WOOD: A dense hardwood is preferable for this project. The material needs to be reasonably resistant to the punishment that a bread board could be expected to take, and its weight will be helpful in use. Quarter-sawn material is also preferred (as opposed to back-sawn material), because it is less likely to shrink or warp. You should ask your material supplier for “select, quarter-sawn wood, dressed all round”. You can make your bread board using one type of wood only, in which case you should shop for: 42 x 32mm (after dressing) - 2 0 2.4m. If you chose to use two different types of wood for contrast, shop for: 42 x 32mm (D.A.R.) – 1 @ 2.7m, and the contrasting wood, 42 x 32mm – 1 @ 1.8m. 2. FASTENING: The bread board is held together by its tongue-and-grooving joints, and glue. Normal PVA or wood glue is suitable if the bread board is never immersed in water, nor left in a very damp situation. PVA adhesives have good initial strength, but their resistance to moist conditions is quite poor. Alternatively you can use a two-pack waterproof epoxy cement. See our appendix on glues for more information. 3. OTHER: A length gauge is useful. See the Jig Guide section for details.

Construction Details

1 Your first cuts are best made in the crosscut mode, using the length-gauge extension on your workstops. Attach a stop block with a G-clamp or similar at 400mm, and cut 9 pieces to this length. If you are using two different woods for contrast, cut 5 pieces from your 2.7m length, and 4 pieces from the 1.8m length of the contrasting wood. These pieces will be the A, B and C Components. In either case you should have created an offcut which will be useful for testing your tongue-and-groove settings. Place your 9 pieces side by side, selecting best face up, and mark on each where the tongue should be, and where the groove should be. Note the Components A and C are different. A is grooved but without a tongue; C has a tongue but no groove (Figure 2). 2 Convert to the table saw mode. It is preferable to make the tongues first, because it is easier to adjust the grooves to fit the tongues, rather than vice versa. Set your saw blade height at 10mm. Set your rip fence at 22mm (10mm less than the thickness of your wood) making sure that the rip fence is exactly parallel to the blade. The first cuts are made with the workpiece on its narrower edge (the 32mm dimension). Begin by making test cuts on your scrap. Holding your material down firmly onto the table and the 42mm face against the rip fence, make the first cut. Make the second cut by running the other 42mm face against the rip fence. Safety Note This type of cut prevents use of the safety guard. Keep your hands well clear of the blade. Don’t trail your fingers behind the work piece. Use a push stick whenever possible. Note that Component A doesn’t require a tongue, so follow the above procedure for only 8 of your pieces. Watch that there is no sawdust build-up between the workpiece and the rip fence. 3 Now reset the fence to 32mm to complete the rebate for the tongues. This time the workpiece is placed with its wider face resting on the worktable and the narrower edge against the fence. Again, test on your scrap piece first. (Figure 1) You may need to move your fence very slightly to ensure that the cuts meet exactly and the rebate is square. You may also need to slightly reset your saw blade height if your first cut was not exactly 10mm. Don't be too concerned if you overcut slightly, as long as the two cuts meet and the rebate is reasonably square. Remember that the tongue-and-groove will not be visible either from the sides or from the end of the bread board, as they are covered by the capping pieces D. 4 The grooves can now be made. Set the rip fence at 10mm and make a test cut on your scrap piece. The saw blade height should remain the same, that is at 10mm, but a groove that is a little deeper than the tongue is preferable to one that is too shallow. Again make two cuts, that is one from each face. This ensures that the tongue and groove will be central in each workpiece. Reset the fence 3mm further out, i.e. at 13mm and again make two passes over the blade, one from each face, to remove the waste in the centre of the groove. You may need to reset your fence again slightly to remove any remaining waste. Check once more that the tongue is clear of the groove bottom, as this will ensure a neat joining of the side edges of the boards. Do a test fit of your components. You should have the tongues sliding into the grooves without having to force them together, but they shouldn’t be a sloppy fit either. 5 Raise the saw blade height to 33mm, and reset the rip fence at 32mm. This is to rip 10mm off Component A ... this was the piece that was grooved but didn’t require a tongue and is therefore 42mm wide, not 32mm which the other pieces are now. You now have the basic parts of the bread board completed. Apply a thin layer of glue to both the tongue and the groove in each case, and clamp while the glue sets. Wipe off any excess glue before it dries, and ensure that the bread board is not bowing or twisting as a result of the clamping. (Figure 2) Safety Note Use a push stick when narrow ripping. Refit the safety guard and riving knive. 6 Convert to the crosscut mode and, if you need to, trim the ends of your board exactly square (a shaving cut should be all that is necessary). Now measure the width of your bread board to determine the length of your capping pieces D. (Depending on how close to the 10 x 12mm tongue/groove dimensions you achieved there will be some variance in the width of the bread board. It should be in the 275-290mm range). Cut your capping pieces to your measured length. 7 The next step is to cut rebates across the ends of the bread board. This is to make a tongue which will lock into a groove to be made in the capping pieces. Note that your worktable needs to be set exactly parallel to your saw travel for this next operation if you wish to achieve accurate cutting. (Looking from the side, the worktable should be parallel to the aluminium bearing channels.) You can test that your table is correctly set by placing a piece of chipboard scrap or similar (at least as wide as your bread board) in position against your workstops. Adjust your saw blade height until the saw teeth just clear your scrap piece. Pass the saw from end to end across your scrap and ensure blade tip clearance is the same at the beginning and end of your traverse. 8 Now adjust your saw’s blade height so that it cuts 10mm deep into your 32mm material. Make a test cut on a similar thickness scrap piece to check your depth of cut. Make a pencil mark 15mm in from the end of your board – this will mark the outer limit of your rebate. Bring your saw up to the bread board, power off and blade stationary, and move your bread board until your cut will be just inside your 15mm mark. Clamp a stop block on your work stop extension against the other end of your bread board, and now make four cuts, turning your board over and end-for-end. After these four defining cuts have been made remove your stop block and cut away the rest of the waste. You may need to make a number of passes over the material to even up your cuts. Figure 3. 9 Change back to the table saw mode to cut the grooves in the two capping pieces D. Set your blade height by holding the bread board on its end beside the blade. (It should be 15mm, but it’s probably easier to “eyeball”.) Set your rip fence at 10mm, but again test on scrap before cutting into your workpieces. Once your settings are correct, make your two cuts into the narrow edge of your capping pieces (first one wide face, then the other against the rip fence). Reset the rip fence at 13mm and repeat. Remember the safety concerns noted in Step 2. 10 Do a trial fit of the capping pieces. If they are too tight on the end tongues of the bread board, you may need to do a shaving cut. This is best done by placing the groove of the capping piece over the saw blade (power off!), rest the rip fence against your workpiece, push your workpiece against the blade towards the fence, and screw down the fence (check for parallel). This will result in a very fine shaving being made in your groove. Again pass first one face and then the other against the rip fence to ensure your groove remains central. 11 Once you are happy with the fit of your capping pieces glue and clamp them on. Because the capping pieces are made from the same material as the main boards which make up the bread board, they are 42mm in width. We felt that this made the bread board look somewhat out of proportion (too long) and therefore we trimmed 10mm off each end of the board. This was easily done in the cross cut mode, but it’s a matter of personal preference, and you may decide not to follow our example. 12 Sand your bread board to remove any irregularities ... how much sanding you need to do is a reflection of how accurately you made your tongue and grooves. It is also advisable to round off all the edges. You will find it useful to use the Triton Sanding Disc mounted in your workcentre as a face-plate sander to round the corners of your bread board. Figure 4. 13 Finishes on surfaces in contact with food present a special problem. Olive oil or a similar vegetable oil rubbed in over the span of a few days will adequately preserve your wood, but it’s possible that they can become gummy or rancid. Linseed oil, tung oil and most varnishes can contain poisonous lead or mercury to speed drying. It is best to avoid these potentially toxic finishes. Paraffin oil is our recommendation as a finish (available from your local pharmacy), as it’s non-toxic and won’t contaminate the flavour of your food.

Source http://www.handymangroup.net/BreadBoard.aspx

Installing a home basketball court

Having a practice court at home is one of the best ways to develop and fine-tune your shooting skills. Add a few friends, and you'll be ready to practice a whole range of offensive and defensive game techniques. Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Figure F Figure G

If you've got a suitable space with an even playing surface, creating an at-home basketball practice court is a fairly simple endeavor. Installing a fixed goal requires only a few steps.

Materials:

Basketball goal and installation hardware
Quick-drying concrete, approximately 500 pounds

1. First, make sure you've selected a suitable location for the goal. Preferably it will be adjacent to a flat court surface (such as in a driveway) and will be away from street traffic, obstacles or anything breakable such as windows.
   
   
   
2. To install a permanent goal, you'll need to dig a hole that's about 2 feet deep and about 1-1/2 feet wide. Make certain that there are no cable, phone or utility lines in the area in which you intend to dig.
   
   
   
3. Since you'll be anchoring the base of the goal in concrete, you'll need about 500 pounds of quick-drying concrete to fill the hole. Mix the concrete and fill the hole about one-third full to form the foundation. Next, carefully insert the base, and then fill the hole the rest of the way with concrete. As you anchor the base, make certain that it is straight in the ground -- not tilted or angled -- and that the top of the base is even with ground level. As you fill the hole with concrete, add enough so that the top of the concrete base is raised slightly above ground level to allow for runoff of rainwater (figure A).
   
   
   
4. Allow the concrete to set and dry for 24 hours.
   
   
   
5. Most basketball-goal kits come in three or more sections. Installation will be easier if you preassemble the goal and support post according to the manufacturer's instructions before installing it in the ground.
   
   
   
6. You may need some assistance from a couple of friends to position and carefully insert the preassembled goal and support pole into the base (figure B). Be certain that the pole goes in straight and seats securely (figure C).
   
   
   
7. Once the assembly is seated properly, you can adjust the angle of the goal (figure D). There may be levers or wing-tabs on the support (figure E) to make this easier.
   
   
   
8. Once you've got the goal angled exactly as you want it, secure the assembly in place with the locking base-cap.
   
   
   
9. To finish the installation, pour additional concrete directly into the hollow pole to further secure the assembly.
   
   
   
10. With the goal positioned and locked in place, you can adjust the goal to the desired height using the adjusting levers on the support pole (figure F). Regulation height is 10 feet. Most goals can be adjusted from 7 feet to 10 feet in order to accommodate different ages or skill levels.
    
    
    
11. With the goal installed, and if you have ample space, you may want to mark off a key and sideline boundaries to simulate the markings on a real court (figure G). The dimensions of a regulation key are a 16-foot width and 15 feet from the basket to the free-throw line. The circle that goes around the free-throw line is 10 feet in diameter. Stencil kits are available to help you mark off regulation boundaries. You may choose to make permanent markings using paint, or temporary ones using street chalk.

Source http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/os_sports/article/0,2033,DIY_14151_2271358,00.html

5 Steps To Creating A Counter

Creating a counter is easy but so many homeowners have not discovered this. Most of them like do-it-yourself approach but they do not know how to go about it. Some find it difficult to catch up with the assembly-line speed at which every counter is built. So, I have presented 5 simple step-by-step guidelines that will enable to create your counter quickly. Let us start right away.

Step 1: Get some medium-density fiberboard substrate and cut them to size. Then add a strip along the font edge that will be covered with laminate. This will produce a 1-inch overhang that will cover the seam between the top of the cabinets and the counter.

Step 2: Apply the edge laminate first after which you trim the excess. Because the top has a curved profile on one side, it is better to use a belt sander. But on a straight top, a specialized router, called a laminate trimmer, is used.

Step 3: Next, contact cement is applied to the substrate and the cut-to-fit laminate, if it is from Formica, it should be pressed into place. Also, use a squeegee to remove air bubbles and ensure full adhesion.

Step 4: Because the field laminates are usually cut slightly larger than the counter to counter help prevent mistakes, the excess is pared flush with a laminate trimmer.

Step 5: Cutouts for the sink and cook top are made with router and template. Most fabricators keep templates for different-size sinks, though some shops prefer to make the sink cutout on site when they are installing the countertops.

Now that you have learnt how to create a counter, go ahead and do it.

Callistus Amadi is a home improvement consultant. He provides do-it-yourself home improvement tips at http://diyhomeimprovementtips.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Callistus_Amadi

How To Install Ceiling Fan - Follow These Step-By-Step Instructions

You finally picked out the best ceiling fan in just the color and style you want. The question now is how to install a ceiling fan? Installing a ceiling fan is quite easy and anyone with common know how of a few things can easily do it with just a few tools.

Tools
Before you begin check to make sure you have the necessary tools to get the job done. You will of course need the ceiling fan and any parts that came in the box with it. You will also need a ladder, screwdriver, wire tester, pliers, wire cutters, a mask and goggles. By having all the tools ready you will save yourself time and frustration from having to start and stop the project while you locate yet another tool you need.

Existing wiring?
Before you begin you should read all the instructions that can in your ceiling fan box. Since ceiling fans are usually used to replace or update an existing light fixture all the wiring should already be done for you. If you are installing a new fan in a non-wired location and do not have a clue about wiring please for your own safety consult a professional. One thing you must do before you do any wiring or installation is to make sure the power is off and no one will turn it back on until you are finished.

Measure twice cut once!
After the electricity is off and your sure no one will turn it back on you need to first remove the existing light fixture. Many times this is simply done by unscrewing a few screws and disconnecting the wires. Next you will need to measure and possibly cut the correct size hole. Remember the rule of thumb: Measure twice cut once. This will save you from making the mistake of cutting the hole to big to fit the fan you have purchased.

Install New electrical box
Next you will need to install the new electrical box that came in the box with your new ceiling. You will then need to glue on the ceiling medallion if your ceiling fan has one, if not skip to the next step. After the medallion is in place attach the ceiling plate. Take special care to make sure the screws are tight. Loose screws are one of the common issues a fan will make noise when it is on.

Ceiling fan Components
Then you will need to assemble the ceiling fan components. By following the ceiling fan instructions this should be a simple job. Then you will take the components up the ladder to connect the wires from the ceiling to the ceiling fan. Securely mount your ceiling fan to the ceiling again taking special care to make sure the screws are in securely to reduce any noise the fan might make when it is working.

Final step
The final step when installing your ceiling fan is the attach the blades and the light fixture. You will also need to pay special attention to securing the blades to the base of the fan. This will not only help with the performance of the ceiling fan but also reduce any noise you will have from the fan when using it. Once you have completed all of these steps you can turn your electricity back on and start enjoying the breeze from your brand new fan.

To Find More How to Install a Ceiling Fan ratings and reviews for your home visit www.ceiling-fan-wizard.com

Copyright 2008 Ceiling-fan-wizard.com, all rights reserved.

Mark is the editor Ceiling-fan-wizard.com which Provides you with the best ceiling fan reviews and ratings. To Find More How to Install a Ceiling Fan ratings and reviews for your home visit http://www.ceiling-fan-wizard.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_van_Tuel

Ceiling Fan Repair - Find Out The Most Common Ceiling Fan Problems

If your home is mostly cooled using ceiling fans, you know exactly how useful and pleasant they can be during the summer. You also know how stifling and suffocating the warm air can get when they fail! What you may not be aware of is the fact that most ceiling fan repair is actually a breeze, and, for the most part, there is no need to call in a specialist. Take a look at three of the most common ceiling fan problems below and their surprisingly simple fixes!

Problem 1: The fan doesn't work
Make sure that power is present by checking the switch and the fuse box. You can do this fairly easily by turning off the power to the fan circuit and unscrewing the screws that hold the switch the electrical box. You'll need a voltage tester (available from a hardware store or home center) to check the screw terminals to make sure that they are not charged and then you can pull the switch from the box itself.

After you unscrew the wires from the terminals, straighten the ends of the wire with needle-nosed pliers before you twist the two ends together and screw a wire nut over the twisted wires. Turn the circuit back on and see if the fan works. If it does, the switch is bad and you need to replace it. If there is still no activity, you will need a specialist to check the wiring and the fixture.

Problem 2: The fan hums
If you notice that the fan hums whenever it runs, there is a chance that this can be fixed by working with the speed control. A fan with a cheaply made motor might just be predisposed to make noise, but you'll often get fans where anti-hum features can be easily installed. First, turn off the power at the circuit breaker and test it by turning the fan off and on and off again.

As before, use a voltage tester after you remove the faceplate and switch to make sure that the wires are safe to touch and disconnect the wires from the switch. Per the directions on the anti-hum fan control, twist the wires present together and after adding the wire nuts, replace the control and faceplate before restoring the power.

Problem 3: The fan wobbles
Check to make sure that your fan has been installed into a specially designed ceiling electric box that is made for fans, as a regular one that is meant only for lights will be unable to support the fan's constant movement and weight. If the fan installed into the wrong kind of electric box, you will need a specialist or an electrician.

You can check by unscrewing and lowering the fan's housing the ceiling; you'll be able to see a label that will designate it as being fan-rated. U-bolts or lag screws should connect the box to a bracket or a solid wood block for stability.

Before unscrewing the whole fixture, however, tighten all screws by hand. If you have a droprod involved in supporting your fan, make sure that the ball joint at the top of the drop rod is well-settled with the support bracket.

Similarly, make sure that the blade tips hang an equal distance from the ceiling; if the blades are warped, a wobble could result. If this is the case, you can call the manufacturer for blade replacements or head to your local home center.

Copyright 2008 Ceiling-fan-wizard.com, all rights reserved.

Mark is the editor Ceiling-fan-wizard.com which Provides you with the best ceiling fan reviews and ratings. To Find More Ceiling Fan Repair ratings and reviews for your home visit http://www.ceiling-fan-wizard.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_van_Tuel

Solar Heating, Solar Thermal, and Solar Hot Water Systems

Solar Heating (Solar Thermal) Systems


Using solar power to heat your water is one of the most practical and cost effective ways to harness energy from the sun. Solar thermal systems absorb the sun's heat and use it to heat your residence's own hot water needs. In general, the solar thermal system will easily heat water to 140єF or higher matching the range of its traditional hot water tank counterpart. Effective systems can collect up to 70 percent of the sun's energy that reaches them and transfer it to you.>

How Solar Hot Water Heating Systems Work
In general there are two types of active water heating systems: direct and indirect.

Direct Solar Water Heating
As implied, direct systems capture the sun's heat in collectors to directly heat a household's water supply. The system consists of collector pipes filled with water that are linked to an insulated storage tank usually located inside a home. As the sun heats the water inside the pipes, the water flows into the storage tank. Although direct systems are more efficient that indirect ones, they require more maintenance to keep the pipes clear of mineral deposits. Direct solar thermal systems also work best in warmer climates where the system is less prone to freezing.

Indirect Solar Water Heating
Indirect systems do not heat the water directly rather they use fluid with a low-freezing point to absorb radiant energy from the sun. Also termed closed-loop systems, an indirect solar water heating system absorbs the sun's rays into heat pipes evacuated of air which in turn heats up the pipe's thin copper laminate located on the back of each pipe. The collection array consists of multiple heating pipes that are mounted and tilted to maximize solar collection.

Often glycol (an ingredient in antifreeze) runs through adjacent pipes within the array and heats up via contact with the copper laminate. As the temperature in the pipes rise, the heat activates a pump that circulates the glycol fluid through a heat exchange coil in the water tank. That coil, in turn, transfers its heat to the water tank and voila, hot water is produced.

Solar Pool and Hot Tub Heating Systems
Solar pool heating systems work on a similar principle to a direct system solar hot water heater. However, because the water can heat up too much in a solar thermal system, the collector's glazing is often removed. Using non-glazed pipes or a heating system that resembles a flat black mat prevents the pool water from becoming super-heated as well as reduces costs to the overall system.

While solar pool and hot tub heating systems often are exempted from federal and state monetary incentives and rebates, they often pay for themselves within 1-5 years (depending mostly on where you live).

Radiant Heating Systems For Your Home
You can also use a solar hot water (or thermal) system to heat your home. Rather than transferring the heated water to a domestic hot water heater, the solar hot water system can connect to a radiant floor and/or wall panel radiator.

You can make the collection and distribution system as simple or complicated as you like depending on your location, climate, and intended use. Most radiant heating systems use the collection array to heat water and store it in a large thermal collection tank so that you have enough heat to last at least throughout the night. A general rule of thumb is to have a collection tank that can store 1Ѕ to 2 gallons of water for every square foot of solar collector. That water, in turn, is piped via plastic tubing under floors to create an effective heating system.

Radiant floor heating systems have many advantages. They are typically 40 percent more efficient than a forced air heating system and can be zoned so that each room has its own thermostat. Furthermore, radiant floors distribute heat beneath your feet where it naturally rises providing a cozy and evenly distributed heated living space.

Tips for Installing Solar Hot Water Systems



Solar Hot Water Heater Tips for Cooler Climates
In cooler climates during the colder times of the year, an indirect solar hot water system can help lower your energy costs by working as a water preheating system rather than an outright water heater. Preheated water reduces the load on your other energy systems to heat the water.

Another trick to increase the system's efficiency is to wrap your water tank with an insulation blanket to keep the water sufficiently warm and further minimize the need to rely on traditional power sources to heat your water. (Note that not all water heaters need an insulation blanket. Many of the newer energy-efficient models come with a thicker layer of insulation inside the tank that eliminates the need for additional insulation).

Where to Place a Solar Thermal Collection System
Like other types of solar energy systems, solar hot water heating systems work best on south-facing walls with full sun exposure. Because of the collector tubes' type of construction, the outside elements have less effect on its performance compared to a photovoltaic collection system; a bit of shade on the thermal array will have a less noticeable impact.

Work with a Solar Pro
As with any solar power upgrade, consulting with a solar professional can help you evaluate your potential savings and determine the type of solar hot water system that's best for you. Solar thermal panels come both as stand-alone collection arrays and as integrated building panels. A solar pro can size your system and help you compare the different options for the collection panels and water tank you may need. And remember, solar domestic water systems often qualify for federal, state, and local tax credits and rebates!

Find more solar panel, solar power, and solar energy information at Cooler Planet.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Danny_Vo

Bed Bugs - Okay, You Have Them - It's Not The End Of The World

In the first article we established how to tell if you have an infestation of bedbugs. Unfortunately if you are reading this article, you have bedbugs. Not to worry getting rid of them is just a procedure. There are many ways to attack your invaders but it really boils down to two different methods.

The first way is the DIY method. If the bed bugs were easy to find often vacuuming and steam cleaning can eradicate a small colony. The reason bed bug extermination is so tricky is that these insects are very determined. They can live almost two years without any food and find the strangest places to live.

You should wash everything you can on the highest heat setting: clean out the drawers, wash all your clothes, and steam the drapes, carpets, and bedding.

Whatever else you can't clean please dispose of properly. Make sure to wrap and mark anything you throw out as INFESTED so as to avoid bed bug infestation from spreading to someone else.

Method two is, call a professional. If money is not an issue this really is the way to go. Make sure to get references and call them. If an exterminator has experience with bedbugs then providing you with phone numbers should not be an issue.

It's better to be safe than sorry and you never want to mess around when you have a small plague on your hands.

Not only are these experts qualified in identification, they can give your house a thorough inspection to ensure total eradication.

They will determine the best plan of attack whether it be steam clean, vacuum, use a low-impact insecticide, or possibly even fog your home in order to take care of the problem.

Plus they can give advice about future prevention, such as caulking the cracks in the walls and sealing up your mattresses.

For a complete review of your options visit us at http://www.bed-bug-bites.net

Tim Russell is an internet junkie. With more than 20 niche websites form coin collecting to bed bugs. Please take the time to visit http://www.bed-bug-bites.net for all your updated bedbug information. If you have any direct questions you can email Tim tlrussell@bed-bug-bites.net

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Timothy_L._Russell

fur deco

fur and leather for interior decoration, leathe... (more)
Added: December 23, 2007
fur and leather for interior decoration, leather carpets, cowhides, fur carpets, fur bed covers, sheepskins, cushions & throws

The Beauty Of Plaster Decoration

We are selling the most beautyfull plaster & cement decorations for interior or exterior use

Check are site www.artedecor.nl

best regards
ARTE DECOR
Eindhoven
The Netherlands

FURNITURE FOR RESTOURANT

HOTEL INDUSTRY FURNISHED APARTMENTS RESORTS RES... (more)

HOTEL INDUSTRY FURNISHED APARTMENTS RESORTS RESTAURANTS COFFEE SHOPS CATERING SERVICES ARCHITECTS INTERIOR DESIGNERS CONTRACTORS CONSULTANTS DECORATION CO. AIRPORTS AIRLINES GOVERNMENTS PROJECTS FACTORIES FURNITURE CO. UNIVERSITIES SCHOOLS SHOPPING MALLS AUDITORIUMS THEATERS CINEMAS MEETING AREAS BALLROOMS HEALTH CLUBS

Brick and Masonry Siding

Brick is one of the most durable siding materials: it doesn't need to be painted, doesn't rot, doesn't fade, and weathers handsomely. Brick-veneer siding is usually applied to a wood frame wall over building paper. Bricks can be laid in many patterns and come in many sizes, textures, and colors. Brick also provides excellent insulation for your house. Bricks are held in place with mortar, which is a mixture of cement, sand, lime, and water. The mortar that holds the bricks together can be finished, or "tooled," in a number of ways. It can be: * Concave * Flush with the bricks * Extruded between them * Raked * V-joined Solid mortar and properly tooled joints are the key to keeping your house weathertight. And although bricks and mortar are solid, they are porous. If you live in a very rainy climate, you may want to consider a clear water-repellant coating for your brick building to preserve the brick, especially if you have several spells of freezing and thawing during the winter.

http://www.hometips.com/content/brick_intro.html

The Keys to Carpet Cleaning DIY

Do you want to extend the life of your floor? Keep your floor looking new for many more years by properly caring for it, we can do it ourselves. Let us discuss carpet cleaning DIY.

Aside from cleaning and restoration, which are corrective, there are preventive measures you could do to care for your carpet. Use house slippers or put on socks when walking on the carpet. Outside shoes have plenty of elements, which may be harmful to your carpet, like sand, dirt, oil, and even leftover dog deposits. Sand and dirt act like abrasives damaging the fibers of your carpet according to DIY experts.

Regular use of a vacuum on your carpet is the first step in keeping it clean. Use of liquid shampoos is discouraged. This is because it is difficult to rinse out all the shampoo, and leftover shampoo becomes sticky drawing contaminants from your shoes. Dry carpet cleaners are available in the market; it can substitute for the shampoo. To remove the old shampoo you would need to rent a shampoo machine. Vinegar can remove leftover shampoo; pour a cup for every three gallons of water. After a few cleaning sessions, your carpet would be clean and soft again.

Rubbing stains can damage the fiber and will only spread the stain according to tips from carpet cleaner DIY. Instead of rubbing just blot it. Use shaving cream on food stains. Apply and leave it for quarter of an hour then rinse it with a mixture of vinegar and water. Red wine stains are best removed by club soda. A mixture of three parts peroxide and seven parts water can remove red dye. Apply and leave for half an hour then rinse with a mixture of vinegar and water. As a precaution, test peroxide and water mixture on inconspicuous places of the carpet to check for color fastness.

Another great carpet cleaning DIY tip indicates that brake cleaners contain the same chemicals found in dry cleaners. Do not get tempted to pour brake cleaner straight into the stain in the carpet. This would melt the adhesives in the carpet. Put a small amount on a clean cloth instead; use this cloth to blot the stain. Wash afterwards with soap and water. For unfortunate dog accidents, try using an enzyme product. When the urine reaches the pads, it spreads out. Therefore, the trick is to treat the area around the stain. Pad should be fully saturated. If this fails, mix three parts peroxide to seven parts water. For every cup of mixture, add half a teaspoon baking soda. Wash with the vinegar and water solution afterwards.

Ink can be removed by blotting it with rubbing alcohol. Wait for half an hour, before you can blot again to remove. Wash with soap and water. For gum stuck on the carpet, it suggests freezing it using ice cubes. Once it is frozen use a spoon to remove it.

Here are other helpful tips from carpet cleaner DIY experts. Take away all the furniture from the carpet. Vacuum thoroughly, removing as much soil as you can. Wetting the carpet too much is not good as it may cause damage or promote the development of bacteria. Create conditions for quick drying of the carpet. Use dehumidifier or air conditioner to absorb moisture in the air. Direct fans to the carpet, abundant air movement will help quicken drying.

We provide tips and information on carpet cleaning DIY and Boston upholstery cleaning along with many other aspects of looking after your carpeting and flooring. by T. Houser Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tom_Houser

Unusual Winter Weather Taking Toll on Roofs and Gutters

Winter looks to be here for a while and heavy snows have caused some big problems for those with guttering, especially if the gutters were not cleaned of debris before the heavy snows started to arrive. I know this to be true, because I am guilty this year of not having time to clean up fall leaves as I should have from my gutters.

The issue we have been getting a lot of concern about this season is ice heavy gutters. The problem seems to be worse on the gutters that have fall debris left over but is happening in clean gutters as well. Because the weather has been so weird this season, with heavy snow then warmer days, then cold snaps and more snow. As a result of this type of pattern ice dams have formed in many a gutter including mine.

These ice dams plug up the downspout of the guttering and allow heavy ice and snow to build up in the gutters. Normally this isn't too much of a problem. Gutters are usually designed with enough of a support system to handle being clear full of ice without structurally failing.

What we've been seeing this season is something that does happen but is usually a rare occurrence. Because of the strange snow-thaw-freeze and repeat pattern in many parts of the country, gutters are experiencing in some cases, more load then they can stand. Ice and snow from roof eves become frozen to the ice dams that are already in the gutters. This extra load is causing all sorts of problems.

The sheer weight of the ice and snow can literally rip the guttering from the fascia and cause it to come crashing to the ground. Even worse yet it can partially pull away from the fascia and leave a gap behind which allows water to enter and freeze building an even stronger ice dam on the edge of a roof system. This gap becomes full and builds up pushing up the edge of shingles and allowing ice to creep in under causing damage.

There are some real concerns if water and ice begin to gain entry underneath the shingles that range from rot in the fascia boards and sheeting on the outer edge of the roof to possibly sill and wall damage depending on how much over hang you have. Not to mention interior ceiling and wall damage.

Water damage is not the only concern. Weight can also be a concern. When the ice dams form in the gutters to where snow and ice build up on top above drip edged level there is a real possibility of excess snow load on the roof. The excess ice and snow, (especially ice) weigh a lot more then one might imagine. Normally snow melts off our roofs from thermal seepage from underneath. This is not to say that you have bad insulation, it just how things work, heat naturally rises. Homes with better insulation take a bit longer to melt snow off the roof.

But when it comes to drip edge and overhang which are where this problem occurs, there is no internal heat source to melt the ice and snow that build up, other then the difference in temperature of the water running down the roof from roof surface melt. With the weather pattern of freeze snow and thaw we have been seeing in short snaps, the water running down doesn't have time to sufficiently melt the ice at the edge and gets caught as temperatures begin to drop quickly again. Thus the ice builds up.

Enough said about what causes the problem, now onto what to do about it. I am sad to say, this time of year there are limited options that we could come up with. None are really very pleasant to facilitate. And if your gutters are clogged with debris the options are somewhat limited.

Note: it is strongly recommended that any possible course of action mentioned here be attempted only when mid day temperatures are expected to reach at least 38 °F or 3 °C and preferably only when the sun is shining. Secondly, don't attempt any of the ladder drills by yourself.

The very first thing to do is to get the downspouts open and flowing. This may require the use of a tall ladder. If it is not possible to us a free standing step ladder and an extension ladder or rail ladder is used, do not use the gutter system as a means of leaning support. Ladders and ice do not mix very well, so be sure to have the area where you intend to set the ladder clear of ice and light snow. Deep snow on the other hand can be a plus in aiding to stabilize the ladder. If you do set the ladder in snow, it should be more then 4 inches deep. Be sure step the legs down on both sides before mounting the ladder and always have someone to hold and keep it stable while you ascend.

Once you get up the ladder, remove as much snow and ice from directly above the downspout gently by hand as you can. I say gently because with all the extra weight of the snow and ice, you don't want to be putting a lot of downward pressure on the guttering system. If the ice dam is frozen to the edge of the roof, be careful to not damage the edge of the shingles as you removed the ice. You may need a small hammer and chisel or an ice pick to chop the ice away from the downspout opening.

Again be careful not to exert too much downward pressure as you remove the ice. Use a sideways chipping motion if possible. Once you get down to the bottom of the gutter in an area about 6 or 8 inches on either side of the downspout opening, this should be enough. Usually the ice that extends down the spout is only 6 inches or so deep. You can try digging some out or you can do as we did and hall up a small bucket of very hot water and pour over the downspout. If the water doesn't start to flow out the spout you can try tapping on the downspout from just under the gutter and working down a foot or so to help develop a flow. Once a flow begins, even a small one, the offending dam of ice will soon be popping out the bottom of the spout. Sometimes it may be necessary to pour more then one bucket of hot water down the spout

Once the downspouts are open and flowing, for those whose gutters are not clogged with debris, the rest is a matter of hooking up a garden hose and spraying water on the offending areas until the ice dams melt and water is flowing out the downspouts. Once water begins to flow underneath and around the ice in the gutter, you shouldn't have much more problem. Usually the ice in the gutters is quite porous because it was loosely formed with snow before it turned to ice. Melting it with water doesn't take too long, but it's not instantaneous either. You need only do those areas of gutting that have ice dam problems. Most often these seem to be on shaded or eastern exposures.

Continue to spray water on the ice build up on the roof until there is a clearly visible area between the ice on the roof and that which is left in the gutter. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and the natural melting process will clear the gutter out.

For those that have debris in the gutters and an ice dam problem, there may have no other solution but to clean out each section of gutter between straps by hand. Wait until temperatures outside reach a point to promote natural melting as stated earlier and try to break the ice out of the offending sections of guttering one section at a time. Be very careful to break the ice back under the drip edge away from the roof or you could end up pulling up shingles as you try to remove the ice. Clean the offending debris from the gutter as you go. Rubber gloves over insolating gloves might be a good suggestion because the water and debris in the gutter will be very cold.

Again, only be concerned with sections that are problematic. If the weight of ice has caused any gaps or sags, pulling guttering down and away from the fascia, it may be necessary to find some way to temporarily re-attach it or bend it back in place. Personally any major repairs I would do my best to patch up and leave till warmer weather in the spring to tackle.

If you do have areas where ice dams have caused problems, don't forget to inspect those areas carefully for damage when warmer weather makes doing so a more pleasant task.

Scott Best is a freelance author in association with New Roof Site.Com More information and Resources about Roofing and Guttering can be found at New Roof Site.Com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Scott_Best

How To Fix Tiles In Corners Like A Pro

Most floor-tilling works include at least one or two spots where a tile must be notched to fit around the outside of a wall, cabinet or doorway. Fixing tiles in corners like this could be a Herculean task for beginners. Most of them fail because they do not know how to mark tiles. But it is not actually that difficult. Or do you think that those guys that do it have two heads? Of course no. All you need to know is how they do it and that is what I am going to show you right now. So, keep reading and in a couple of seconds you will learn how to fix tiles in corners like pro. To accurately mark the tile for cutting, put away measure an do what the professionals do: direct- marking.

Start by setting the tiles to be cut on top of the full- size tile closest to the corner. Be sure its edges are aligned with the tile below. Next, set another full tile on top with one of its edges pressed against the corner. Run a felt- tip pen or pencil along the edge of the top tile to mark the first cut line onto the middle tile. Now, move the two tiles to the other side of the corner. The area outlined by the two intersecting cut lines is the part of the tile that must be notched out.

Direct- marking eliminates measuring mistakes and works great for all types of floor tiles, including glazed ceramics, vinyl, wood parquet and plastic laminate.

This article is written by Callistus Amadi. He provides do-it-yourself homeiprovement tips at http://www.diyhomeimprovementtips.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Callistus_Amadi

An Outdoor Fireplace Plan And Design

For those who are looking at an outdoor fireplace plan and design, you are not alone. Building outdoor fire pits and fireplaces is what's in style these days and has really been catching on lately. You can find outdoor fireplace plans in many various styles, designs, and themes. They come in either portable or custom models. Every outdoor fireplace plan or design must be built according to all local codes, which generally will include the type of firebricks to use. What's the two most important factors in building an outdoor fireplace? A safe design and an adequate ventilation system.

An outdoor fireplace plan and design is quite similar to that of your standard indoor fireplace. The one exception being that outdoor fireplaces will not use dampers. By having a tall chimney, the major component of any fixed type outdoor fireplace, you won't have to worry about the smoke from the fire.

Mexican style chimney pots called chimeneas are always a beautiful addition. An outdoor fireplace plan can incorporate a bowl-shaped base with a single opening connected to a stack or chimney in the design. This style will help to circulate the air into the fire and emit the smoke out of the top of the stack. Etched cast iron, aluminum, or clay and terracotta are used as raw materials for fireplace construction. Cast-iron and cast aluminum outdoor fireplaces are durable and resist roaring flames and high temperatures. They will often provide a lifetime of usage.

Lavers and Fire Rings are other low cost items that can be added. Decorative portable fireplaces that can be moved with ease from one place to another are also in style today. Another fireplace option is and integrated fireplace. These can be freestanding or attached. English, Eastern brick, Southwestern adobe, or Old World traditional are also whats becoming more popular in fireplace designs and themes.

An outdoor fireplace has a crown, overmantel, mantel shelf, header, filler panel, fire box, leg, plinth base, and hearth. Some models use the combined form of mantel shelf and header.

Look for outdoor fireplace plans that are made of masonry. This type of construction is simply so much more stronger and durable than those made of metal, or even those that are prefabricated. What's the problem with metal? You'll often find that metal will tend to rust very easily with the various weather elements.

Fire Rock's pre-engineered fireplace system is faster and less-expensive than hand-built, brick and mortar structures. In this case, the raw materials are available in a kit, and you can install the fireplace yourself quite easily. This gives you the added feeling of having done it yourself. Afterwards, you can cover the newly constructed fireplace with finishing materials such as brick, stone, stucco or manufactured stone.

You can find much more information on the Internet about all of this material. Spend a little time doing some research and I know you will find the perfect outdoor fireplace plan for your home.

You can find out more about Outdoor Fireplace Plans as well as much more information on all types of fireplaces at http://www.FireplacesA-z.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Edwards

De-Gunking Your Dishwasher

As strange as it sounds, your dishwasher can get nasty dirty. A hot, moist confined place is a breeding ground for bacteria. So, how do you clean it?

You may not have ever thought of cleaning your dishwashers because as most people believe when you run it with soap it becomes clean. Well, yes and no, the dishes become clean but the dishwasher itself isn’t so clean. The amount of dirt and food that cycles through there creates an odor. When the door is closed the odor hangs around. Now what do you do? You can freshen it and have a sparkling clean dishwasher with vinegar. You may think that is the most absurd thing you have ever heard of. But it really does work.

It is very easy to do, just take half a cup of vinegar and pour into an empty dishwasher. Now run the rinse cycle. This is will also clean any clogs that may have formed in the dishwasher drain lines. It also deodorizes the machine, leaving it fresh smelling. You may not have known to do it that way but it does work. If you are going to spring clean then you may as well do your kitchen from top to bottom. Even the dishwasher.

You can clean other parts of the dishwasher as well to compliment the inside smelling so fresh. Make sure you clean the outside, you can use another mixture to get a clean dishwasher with vinegar for these areas. Vinegar has an off type of smell, so don’t be afraid to use regular cleaner or a vinegar mixture on the outside. When using vinegar as a regular cleaner, mix vinegar, borax, baking soda and some dish soap. This is the ultimate cleaner.

One way to avoid these odors is to make sure that you rinse the dishes thoroughly so you don’t get a build up of food to start with. To have a clean dishwasher with vinegar is a time old tradition. Vinegar has a great cleaning power. You can use it to clean teapots, coffee pots, tea kettles, microwaves, ovens, refrigerators and cookware. Vinegar is great on all appliances, it really gets the dirt out. Vinegar is good for kitchen and bathroom cleaning only, it is not recommended that is be used in any other room in the house.

Vinegar is a great cleaner for the dishwasher and other appliances. If you have never tried it before, go ahead, you will wonder what you did without it.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Enrique_Cleanotto

From Brass to Tin: How to Care for Your Antique Metals

Caring for your antique metal items requires know-how. Each metal has its own particular characteristics and requires its own brand of tender loving care.

Brass

Brass is commonly found on decorative items, hardware and fixtures. Avoid cleaning with acids such as vinegar or lemon. The acid is too harsh. Likewise, avoid ammonia- based products such glass cleaners. A coat of clear lacquer is often applied to brass to prevent tarnish. A coat of paste wax will slow tarnish. But antique brass should not be polished because the patina that develops over time is desirable.

Bronze

Sculptures, lamp bases, fixtures are sometimes made of bronze. There is good news with this metal. The less you do the better. The patina that comes with aging on bronze is desirable. So, don’t do anything beyond a light dusting to maintain any of your bronze items.

Cast-Iron

Cast-iron is a metal of choice for fireplace accessories, cookware and garden accessories. Cast-iron that has become wet should be thoroughly dried as it will rust. A coating of oil, wax or paint can prevent rust. You can use a small knife to remove small rust spots. Avoid submerging in water any cast-iron cookware as it is often seasoned. Don’t scrub this off. It is desirable.

Copper

Copper is a popular metal used for home and garden decorative ware and cookware. For your outdoor copperware: left untended it develops an appealing green patina, yet people do tend to polish their copper cookware. A timeless homemade remedy continues to be a popular cleaning method. Sprinkle the item with coarse salt and use a half of a lemon to scour until clean.

Gold

Gilt is often applied as a decorative element to furniture and is found in antique jewelry. Gilt and plating found on furniture are very delicate, so gently dust with a very soft brush. Pure gold doesn’t tarnish. But impurities in hard water might discolor gold, so make sure that any gold that gets wet is thoroughly dried.

Pewter

Pewter is found in serving and decorative items. Vintage pewter was made of a soft mixture of tin and lead and is more delicate than modern pewter. Using a light hand is your best course of action with any pewter. A light dusting and good washing with soap and water is all pewter needs. It does not buff up to a bright shine.

Silver

Sterling and silver plate is commonly used in flatware, serving items and vintage jewelry. Buff with a silver polish as needed. The more you use your silver flatware, the less polishing it needs. In a pinch, toothpaste makes a good cleaner. Store silver in silversmith cloth bags.

Tin

Tin is found in decorative items and kitchenware. Vintage tin might be gray. Don’t try to buff it away. The tarnish protects the tin. Dry thoroughly because any moisture remaining could cause rusting.

Martin Swinton owns Take-A-Boo Emporium, an antique shop located in Toronto, Canada. He does furniture restoration, caning and rushing repairs, custom reproductions, upholstery, teaches courses on antiques and does appraisals for estates and community events. He can be reached at 416-785-4555 or by visiting http://www.takeaboo.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Martin_Swinton

Apparatus For Your Diy Spa

Since going to spa salons can get pretty expensive, you can always resort to do-it-yourself at home spas. It will no doubt save you from a lot of trouble, not to mention, money. Another thing is you won't be having a lot of problem looking for the perfect products, what with all those categorized specially for a specific skin type. It is definitely comfort and relaxation in your own home minus the huge expense.

However, bear in mind that in a d-i-y spa, just like during a spa service, you will have to be armed with complete tools that you can work with. And what tools you may ask? Read on and find out some tidbits that will help you choose as to what kind will best suit your skin's needs.

Loofah

Loofah or Luffa is a body scrub made from a vegetable with the same name. It has several shapes and sizes from which you can choose from. There are even ones that have handles for you to reach the farthest part of your back. However, there are chances that it could breed bacteria because it stays damp and wet for a period of time. Just let it air dry or toss it in the dishwasher just to make sure that it is clean.

Pumice stone

Pumice stones are finer stones. They are usually shaped like bar soaps which mean they don't have rough edges at all. You don't use body wash with this. You just simply rub this on your skin all over the body. Another plus is that it is not a breeding place for bacteria at all because it is a stone and it does not stay damp or wet for a long time.

Sponge

Lots of sponges are available. There are even cartoon character�shaped ones. Sponges produce more bubbles than anything else on this list. But they are not exactly the best ones to use. Since sponges are, well, sponges, it's hard to totally dry them out. And if they are damp, chances are they can become a breeding ground for bacteria especially since your dead skin cells are trapped inside them. So you can just imagine using them again.

Mesh Puff

Mesh puffs are like loofahs. The only difference is that they are not made from vegetables. They are artificial. They also produce a lot of lather than loofahs. However, there is one thing that they have in common with loofahs and that is bacteria can also propagate and live here.

Exfoliating Gloves

These exfoliating gloves can be used if you want an easier way of, well, exfoliating. You just simply put them on and scrub away. It is thinner than loofahs, sponges and mesh puffs which can discourage those nasty bacteria.

Wash cloth

Wash cloths are a lot cheaper, if not free. You just look around your house for little towels or cloths that are not too rough. Then, soak them in water and pour body wash. All you have to do is rub them on you skin. Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/apparatus-for-your-diy-spa-293757.html

Building the Outdoor Play-set / Jungle Gym of your Child’s Dreams… on a Budget!

As life in the suburbs has gone to bigger and better things.. from square footage to yard space… children’s play sets have grown up and gone in the direction of bigger is better as well. It wasn’t so long ago that if your friend down the street had a simple swing set – they were the envy of the neighborhood. Now the envy of the neighborhood child is the friend who’s family has graced them with the newest “Play – System.”

The terms Play-systems, Jungle Gyms, Forts and Swing Sets are pretty much interchangable. At many stores selling outdoor play equipment calling a swing set a “Play System” simply means they’ve added a few extra dollars in the cost of the product. And while the sticker shock of such systems will remind many of us of how much we paid for our first car… it simply doesn’t have to be this expensive.

With some very basic carpentry skill matched with time and a little effort, a Do-It-Yourself Swing Set or Fort is easily achievable. D.I.Y. swing set kits today are basic and easy to understand.

These kits come with fully illustrated step-by-step manual taking you through the entire process from lumber purchase, cutting, drilling, and assembling to adding the finishing touches.

You could even make it a Christmas gift… one that will undoubtedly seed great anticipation for spring, but that would allow for proper planning and budgeting of the system.

Play set

First a quick run-down of some typical questions asked when planning for a Do-It-Yourself swing set:

What's my budget?

Some smaller D.I.Y. Play Sets run as little as 295$. ** BUDGET SAVER** Many play sets have to charge a hefty fee for shipping the slide. That is because this is the only item that has to be boxed and freight shipped. A good way to save money is to buy your slide locally. Check with your local big-box hardware store first.

Lumber, bought by you locally, for smaller jungle gym plans is approx. $175 = A total price for a nice play set would run $470. On average (including your lumber costs) a basic set can be built for under $600, medium sized under $900, largest models $1,200. (That is cost including the slide)

How much time do I have available to work on this project?

Most of medium sized D.I.Y. swing set, fort kit and jungle gym plans with swing beams can be completed in a weekend (12-16 hours).

Good swing set kit plans help by avoiding pre-drilling and angle cuts when possible. In addition, they keep the design of their frames and swing beams simple without comporomising strength.

Do I have the required tools?

All D.I.Y. jungle gym plans will include a 'required tool list'. Believe it or not.. 90% of the plans available require 3 “power tools” a 'circular saw' and 'electric or cordless drill'. Only commonly found tools and basic carpentry skills are required to assemble these kits. The swing set plans, swings, accessories, hardware, etc. is all included with the kit. Lumber is purchased by you locally and consists of 2x4's, 2x6's, 5/2x6's and 4x4's.

Here is a quick guide to an easy and budgeted play system.

1. Research! Start by determining the system you desire **Determine if a slide for your kit is available locally. This will save you close to 100$ on the cost of shipping a slide as freight from the manufacturer!** Kits (without the slide) typicaly includes: brackets / bolts / swing seats / chains / tarp roof (if included) and blue prints. Make note of what tools are required.

2. Purchase your swing kit. A standard kit for a 5’ x 5’ Fort and three swing beam system costs around $300 (Not including freight shipped slide)

3. Once you have your kit, determine and budget for the lumber purchase. A way to save a few extra dollars is to price the lumber by contacting local lumber stores. Don’t always assume that your local big-box hardware store has the cheapest wood available. Taking the time to price your lumber sheet can save you as much as 25% on the total cost of your system. The lumber cost for a system like the one mentioned about should run around $250

4. The final step before building is to determine if you want to prep the ground area. Will you want to use a tiller / dig the area out and add mulch or padding of any type? While this will add to the final cost of the project it may save you possible bumps and bruises in the future.

Finished. Now with a little sweat equity you have built a $1,400 play system for nearly half the price. Keep in mind that the above is assuming you are looking at a basic Fort / Slide / and Swing Set. The designs of play systems available get much more dynamic for not much more in cost. Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/diy-articles/building-the-outdoor-playset-jungle-gym-of-your-childs-dreams-on-a-budget-277211.html

How To take out a wood window

Last week, I told you how to measure your wood window openings to properly order your new vinyl replacement windows. This week, I'm going to explain how to remove your old windows. The vast majority of wood sash double hung windows in America have the same specifications. Starting from inside the house and working out, you have a wood stop approximately 3/8" X 3/8". Then comes the lower sash (the sash is the piece of glass and surrounding wood frame). Then you have another wood stop (called a parting bead) between the lower sash and upper sash. This stop is approx. 1/4" X 1/2". Then you have the upper sash, and finally, the outside wood stop (called a blind stop) that is approx. 1/2" X 3/4".

Before beginning, be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves. The safety glasses will protect your eyes from debris, and the gloves help avoid splinters. The inside stop needs to be removed first. Try not to damage these,they will be re-installed after the replacement windows are put in. If you should happen to crack the old stops, you can take a piece to a hardware store or molding store to get replacement wood stops. If the stops have been painted to blend into the surrounding trim or wall, you need to put a flat screwdriver or putty knife into the indented area that separates the stop from the surrounding area. Drag the blade from top to bottom to chip away the paint. Then put a stiff blade putty knife into this seam and pry the stop away from the frame. Start in the middle of the stop where there is the most flexibility. Work the putty knife from the middle to the top, then from the middle to the bottom. The number of nails that were used to install the stop will determine how difficult removal will be. I have seen some stops that have just 3 nails, while others have had 6. Most of the time there will be stops around all four sides of the opening, but I have seen some openings that didn't have a top stop, and others that had no bottom stop.

After the inside stops have been removed, you should be able to pull the lower sash out. If the windows were painted shut at some time, you might have to pry the area where the lock is located to separate the sashes. Now, once you get the lower sash out, it will still be attached to the cords that hold the window up when you raise it. Take a pair of tin snips and cut the cords while maintaining tension on them. The cords will recoil back into the assemblies. Take the lower sash and set it aside.

Next,we need to remove the middle stop, or parting bead. This piece is going to be thrown away, so you don't have to be careful when removing this piece. The parting bead will be on top and along both sides. It's never on the bottom. Take a screwdriver and tap it into the groove between the side frame and parting bead. Pry out. The bead is nailed into a recessed groove. When all of the parting bead is out, the upper sash will come out. If it's painted to the outside stop, CAREFULLY pry the sash from the outside stop with a stiff putty knife. You want to avoid damaging the outside stop. Remove the upper sash the same way you did the lower sash, cutting the cords under tension.

At this point,you should have the inside stops removed and set aside to be installed later, both sashes removed, the middle stop or parting bead removed and discarded,and the outside blind stop left in place undisturbed. Check to make sure there are no obstructions in the opening such as nails,the metal tab at the bottom for holding in the old screen, etc. The final step is to take a stiff putty knife and scrape the inside face of the outside blind stops to get rid of any old caulking. This is the surface that the replacement windows are going to rest against, and we are going to want this area as smooth as possible. Clean up all loose debris from the opening, and you are now ready to install your replacement windows. That will be our topic for next weeks article.

John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows
http://searchwarp.com/swa152391.htm

Some Great Apartment Storage Ideas

We know the common scenario: The junk is piling up and space is running out. We have all been through this routine umpteen times and living in an apartment with all this junk can prove challenging when looking for places to store things.

You can only stuff so much in your closet before the door busts off its hinges. It's time to stop shoving things in boxes in the closet and use some of these creative storage and organizational ideas that will help you keep the junk under control.

Wall Shelves- Take small storage pieces like a two shelved shoe organizer and attach them to the wall to create wall shelves that can easily house books, collectibles, and other little conversational items.

Mobile Storage Unit- Find a cheap plastic multi-level storage shelf unit and attach some easy to attach casters or wheels to the bottom. Add a few small containers and/or bins to those shelves and suddenly you have a rolling organizational masterpiece ideal for storing shoes, socks and undies, tools, and other small items.

Storage Bench- This is my favorite storage idea! Basically, get a hold of an old upper kitchen cabinet or even buy a new one from Home Depot. Add some feet to the bottom and attach seat cushions to the top. Suddenly, you have an awesome sittable piece of furniture with storage space underneath the seat.

Stacked Bench Bookshelf- How about this: Stack three colored simple wooden benches on top of one another against a wall. Throw a standing clock on the top and line each bench below with books like a bookshelf. Make sure and add some attached support from the wall and, viola, you have a standing bookshelf.

Organized Entryway- When you come into your apartment, think of all the junk you bring in with you. From coats and hats to phones, mail, and keychains, the amount of stuff that you bring in with you and empty from your pockets far out number the junk going out. So, keep it all close to the entry. Line you entryway walls with hooks to hang coats, keys, and hats. Set up a small shoe organizer to keep those muddy foot pieces on the linoleum floor. Install some hanging drawers and a wall shelf to store the mail, tax write off receipts and other small pieces that get lost anywhere else in the apartment. Add a piggy bank or a cool change jar to the mix to chunk all the spare change that dump out of your pockets. Lastly, put a small, tasteful waste basket near the door to rid of the candy wrappers, unneeded receipts, and other bits of trash before it enters your lair.

If you are having some organizational issues and your apartment is getting cluttered from random items of junkness entering your abode everyday, try a few of these ideas to get things organized. The organized entryway and the storage bench really upgraded my living and lifestyle. If you can only try a couple. Try those!
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/diy-articles/some-great-apartment-storage-ideas-298243.html

Restoring Antique Furniture To Its Original Glory

Antique furniture can carry significant value for its owner. The television show ‘Antiques Roadshow’ has taught us that seemingly worthless pieces of furniture can actually hold much more than just memories. It has also taught us that a bad refurnishing or restoration job can diminish its value. With the exception of century-old pieces, for which you should seek the advice of a professional, restoring antique furniture can be not only a relaxing hobby, but also a well-paying one. Before undertaking a furniture restoration project, do some research on the item in mind. Here are some tips on restoring antique furniture.

Remove the hardware
Restoring antique furniture is easier to accomplish if you start by removing the hardware. It should be done carefully so as not to damage the piece. Generally, once the hardware is removed from old furniture, it leaves a little ridge on the finish. This often-crusty ridge is composed of a buildup of wax, polish and dust, and can be quite stubborn to eliminate; caution is advised.

Clean and polish
Start with a thorough inspection of the piece to be restored. Check inside corners, carvings, moldings and the hardware areas. Once you have decided that it is in fairly good shape, and have assessed where the worst build-up is located, you can begin. When it comes to cleaning and polishing antique furniture, have several tools handy, and use common sense to determine which item is best for the task at hand.

• Commercial furniture cleaner
• 0000 steel wool (very fine grade)
• A small toothbrush, for those hard-to-reach places
• A sharpened pencil-size dowel, for corners and crevasses
• A soft cloth
• Paper towels
• Furniture polish

Commercial products are usually specific in their use, and will work well if you follow the recommendations and instructions on the label. You should know the material of the antique item you are restoring, and choose your product accordingly. Using the wrong type of product may actually do more damage than good. When in doubt, consult a professional.

A bit at a time
Because restoring antique furniture requires delicate and precise work, it is best to focus on a small area at a time. Once you have thoroughly cleaned a small surface, expand the area until you have covered the entire piece. Be sure to double check your work in order to avoid inconsistencies.

A note about temperature
The temperature in your home can greatly affect the life span of your furniture. Excessively dry conditions can cause furniture to dry out and shrink, while excessively damp conditions can cause mold growth and even rot. Keep your pieces in a stable environment where the temperature and relative humidity do not fluctuate dramatically. High intensity light (natural or artificial) can also damage furniture, sometimes causing it to discolor; use blinds or curtains to reduce light levels.

General care tips for antique furniture

• Avoid placing in front of a window or direct sunlight.
• Avoid placing close to air conditioning and heating vents.
• Avoid placing near fireplaces and stoves.
• Blot up spills immediately.
• Dust regularly using a lint free cloth.

Handle with care
Restoring antique furniture is a meticulous and highly specialized undertaking. If the piece appears to be quite old and you are uncertain of its value, be savvy and contact a qualified furniture restorer. Treat antique furniture with care as it is rare!

Written by John Mann John Mann is an experienced home renovator and webmaster. Visit his website Workbench Ideas for workshop tips.

Replacing Metal Windows With Vinyl Windows

In our past articles, I talked about all the steps required to properly replace your old wood sash windows with energy efficient vinyl windows. I told you how to measure for the new windows. Then, we discussed the removal of the wood sashes and parting bead. Finally, I told you how to install, seal, and trim the vinyl replacement windows. But, what if those old windows in your home are made of aluminum instead of wood? Is the process the same? No, it's not the same at all. So, the next few articles are going to explain the differences between replacing wood windows versus aluminum windows.

When discussing the proper frame style for replacing the wood sash windows, I explained the difference between new construction frames versus replacement frames. When replacing aluminum windows, there is another option we have to consider regarding frame style. It's called a "retrofit" frame. Let's go over each frame type. First, we have the new construction frame with the nailing fin. If you choose to go this route, you have to remove the exterior around each window opening, pull out the nails holding the aluminum window to the studs, nail in the new vinyl window, apply flashing, caulk, and re-install the exterior around each window.(I get tired just talking about it!)In addition to being a whole lot of labor, you can run into major problems trying to install the exterior product around each window opening. If your home has stucco, you have to try and match the rest of the stucco. It can be done, but not by you. Even most professional stucco guys can't get a perfect match. What if you have wood siding? Well, you can cut away 2" of the siding around each window to get to the nail fin, then you can apply 1 X 2 or 1 X 3 trim around each window. Certainly not as much work as the stucco home, but probably more work than the average homeowner cares to tackle. What if each window is surrounded by brick? Let's not even go there! You would have to remove the bricks, then re-install them all when finished.

Trust me, you don't want to replace your old aluminum windows with new construction vinyl windows. You want to use either the replacement frame like the one used to replace the wood sash windows, or something called a retrofit frame , that is popular in the west where stucco is a common exterior. Since the procedure for measuring is the same regardless of the frame style chosen, this article will discuss the proper measuring procedure, and future articles will explain the difference in the installation process for replacement versus retrofit.

If you look at the portion of the aluminum frame that goes around the window opening into your surrounding walls, you will see three separate "legs" that form two pockets. The outside leg and the center leg form the first pocket. Your screen and stationary panel will be in this pocket. The center leg and inside leg form the second pocket, and your sliding panel is in that pocket. Find the "leg" that is the widest on all four sides. When measuring the width, run your tape measure from the widest leg on the left to the widest leg on the right. This should be the narrowest measurement. Then, subtract 3/8" from that measurement. This is the width of the replacement window. Measure the height the same way. When measuring the height, measure as close to the center of the window as possible. This is especially important on windows wider than six feet, because the top wood header has a tendency to sag over time, making the center of the opening the narrowest. You don't need to deduct 3/8" from the height like you did on the width. 1/4" is fine. These are the dimensions you use when ordering your vinyl window. If you have any picture windows(windows without a vent panel), there will only be two legs and one pocket. You still measure the same way.

Secrets to Make Your Dishwasher Clean Perfectly

As a service company we are constantly asked, “Why doesn’t my dishwasher clean better". To this query we offer the following insights and suggestions.

Whenever we diagnose a poor cleaning complaint the main things we want to know are: 1 Is the water hot enough? 2 Are you using a proper detergent? 3 Are you using a rinse additive? 4 Are you using proper loading techniques?

Water temperature

Most manufacturers suggest a minimum 120 Fahrenheit for the dishwasher to begin the cleaning process, 140 to remove food soiling, and 155 to sanitize and remove bacteria. In restaurants they boost the dishwasher temperature to 180 Fahrenheit to satisfy health requirements. Consumers misunderstanding these requirements have led to problems for the household dishwasher.

In a dishwasher the temperature of the wash water is paramount. Unfortunately, It is now common to find household water temperatures of 100 Fahrenheit, or less.

Many people have lowered their household water temperature in an effort to be conscientious consumers. Yes, it lowers electrical consumption. Unfortunately it has other consequences.

Manufacturers say it does not provide enough heat to clean dishes properly and can leave them covered in bacteria and food residue. Supporters of lower water temperatures claim it is both environmentally friendly and necessary to protect children from any possibility of scalding at bath time.

One of the latest ideas is a mixing valve added to hot water tanks. It is preset and will not allow temperatures in excess of 115 Fahrenheit. It does this by mixing cold water with the hot to maintain this preset maximum.

This debate over hot water tank temperatures has resulted in a catch 22 type scenario. Lower the temperature to lower consumption and be more child safe, but end up leaving bacteria on the plates we use to eat.

Low water temperature can also affect the cycle length. If too low the dishwasher may keep stopping to try and heat the water. A normal cycle of 40 minutes could be extended to 2 or 3 hours with all the heating delays. Some dishwashers may stall completely because of temperature. Others may end up only doing a partial wash.

Due to poor results from their dishwashers some consumers have even returned to washing dishes by hand. They feel using old-fashioned elbow grease is the best way to clean the dishes. In fact studies have shown the opposite. Not only does the dishwasher do a better job, it will use less water. Plus, hand washing means hand drying. A wet dishtowel left exposed to the air is a known breeding ground for bacteria. So if you have returned to this method, always use a freshly laundered dishcloth and dishtowel.

Ever feel that “you can’t win for losing".

Proper detergent

By “proper" detergent we mean one that you knows has a proven track record. We always suggest using a name brand type that is purchased at a grocery store. Somewhere the turn over is high that you will get a fresh box.

Gel or crystal, the choice is yours. Both seem to work equally well. If you have a preference stick with the type you like.

Crystal is less messy, while gel will dissolve quicker with the water. If your water temperature is low (as described above) gel may be a choice because it will mix better.

One caution to be aware of when using crystal detergent is that it can pick up moisture from the air. When this happens it will swell up and become lumpy. Left exposed to air long enough the lumps will harden. If placed into the dishwasher these lumps will be difficult to break down and will not fully dissolve. If at cycle’s end you open the door and see detergent left inside it may be evidence of hardened crystals.

Additional evidence of moisture buildup can be seen if the box itself appears to be swollen. If seen, replace immediately with a fresh box.

A box of detergent should be consumed within 2-3 months of normal operation. If the box is not empty after 3 months throw it away and buy a new one. Remember to match the box size to your needs. Do not be tempted to buy a large box just because it is on sale. If you end up having to throw most of it away, it wasn’t much of a bargain.

Some detergent manufacturers now offer a product that combines the detergent with the rinse additive. Others offer a detergent that includes a special grease-dissolving agent. Still others are in a tab form, or inside a dissolvable plastic pouch. Whichever form you prefer the one thing we always stress is, “when you find one that works for you stick with it … even if it costs more than others".

Dishwashing detergent versus dishwasher detergent

These two detergents are not interchangeable. Trying to do so will cause problems. Each type of detergent is formulated to do a specific job.

“Dishwashing detergent" is the one used to wash dishes in the sink is. It is definitely not meant for the dishwasher. Anyone who has ever mistakenly put it into the dishwasher can attest to the mess this will produce. The beating action of the water will produce massive amounts of suds. This results in the dishwasher flooding out the door and across the kitchen floor.

“Dishwasher detergent" is the one used in the machine. It is very strong compared to the type for hand washing. If used to hand wash it may even burn your skin. Also, it is meant for the harsh spray action of the dishwasher. If you try to use it in the sink it will not mix with the water properly, resulting in poor cleaning.

So the moral of this tale is: “Don’t confuse dishwashing with dishwasher".

Rinse additive

This is something that gets forgotten once the free sample bottle that came with the dishwasher has been used.

Its job is to make the water run off the dishes faster so they can dry quicker. Without it there would be little beads of water on everything at the end of the cycle. Glasses especially would appear to be water stained or be left with a gritty residue.So if poor cleaning is a problem, check the rinse additive level.

But remember, only one or two drops are added per load. A few ounces of rinse additive lasts a very long time. Such a long time those customers often think it is not being added, and blame the additive for problems it has nothing to do with.

To refill, look on the dishwasher door for a cap or plug that is removable. It is often overlooked because the time between fill ups can be months. Also, the appliance manufacturers could help solve this problem if more of them added some sort of “Hey, I’m empty" indicator.

Frigidaire dishwashers have a neat little indicator. Right next to the soap dispenser is a clear plastic eye that changes colour when the additive is empty. So every time you add detergent to the machine you also see this eye staring back at you. White if empty, and black if full. Simple, effective, and smart.

Proper loading

Lastly, don’t forget that how you load the dishes can drastically affect how well they are cleaned.

Proper loading will allow the water to penetrate all the nooks and crannies. Try the following suggestions:

• Cups and glasses on the top rack with bottoms up
• Plates on the bottom rack all facing the same direction
• Bowls either rack, but all facing the same direction
• Utensils in the utensil holder in a mixed fashion (some knives, forks, spoons together in each compartment) to allow gaps between them
• Large items, such as a spatulas, laying down on top rack
• Pots bottom up wherever space allows (on their side okay if positioned so that water will drain out)

Placing the dishes and utensils in an orderly manner really does make for a better wash. It allows the water sprays to penetrate the dishes thoroughly. Try it … it works.

The analogy I offer customers is: If you were going on a car trip would you pack the car efficiently, or just open the doors and throw everything inside so that the passengers had to fight with the luggage. I think you get the picture.

You now know what is needed to make the dishes come out of the dishwasher sparkling clean. You require: Hot water, good detergent, rinse additive, and proper loading practices. That’s it – that’s all. Provide all four of these things to the dishwasher and your cleaning success is guaranteed.

So load up the machine, go get yourself a liquid refreshment, put your feet up and let the dishwasher do all the work.

Copyright 2004 by Donald Grummett. All right reserved. Donald Grummett is an appliance service manager in Ottawa, Canada. In the trade over 30 years as both a technician and business owner. For more information about appliances including FAQ, Stain guide, Recycle, and Newsletter visit http://www.mgservices.ca