How To Use A Comb To Texture Your Ceiling and Walls

Here in the UK, we texture a variety of stunning patterns & designs straight onto the ceiling & walls using tools such as fingers, rollers, sponges, rags, brushes, trowels, etc: your only limit is your imagination; but in this article I want to talk about using 'texturing' combs, to create some amazing affects onto your interior surfaces; these are very reasonably priced & now widely available to you thanks to the internet: plus, the methods for applying the texture coating to the desired surface is usually 'rolled on, sometimes brushed on, or even "troweled on' instead of 'sprayed on.'

As you can imagine, the cost for applying texture coating to your ceiling & walls this way makes it possible for the home 'DIY' enthusiast to 'have a go yourself' because all you will need is a bucket to mix the texture powder in, the tool for mixing, (either an attachment to the power drill, or a plastic texture mixing tool that you attach to a wooden handle,) the texture powder, a roller & tray to hold the mixture & of course, the texture comb;

Some texturing combs consist of a moulded 'all in one' design, (almost resembling that of a plastic tile adhesive spreader, but the serrated 'comb' edge is slightly tighter together/not spaced as wide apart from each other) whereas, the handle, and the serrated (patterning) edge are made from a moulded, plastic material, the usual length of the comb is around 10 inches long (this is ideal for creating designs onto your larger, as well as smaller ceilings & walls;) whilst other texturing combs consist of a wooden handle, with a slit cut through it, whereas a piece, or two, of flexible plastic (containing the serrated patterning edge,) is inserted; Texturing combs, if looked after correctly could serve you a long time, but please be aware, do not wash out the combs in boiling water as this could shrivel up the serrated edges, plus also remember that, after texturing many surfaces, the serrated edge could become quite worn down, thus giving you a thinner, and more undesirable pattern depth;

To pattern the ceiling, first of all, make sure that the surface is correctly sealed and that the room is cool (no central heating on), you must mix enough texture to cover the whole surface area to be textured; secondly, after you decided which pattern/design your going to attempt, stand at the entrance to your desired room and look up to the ceiling, it is quite normal to actually start patterning alongside the wall, running across the narrow width of the ceiling, viewing from the door entrance, (but this depends entirely upon yours, or your customers personal preference.) So, for instance, let us say that we are going to start our pattern from the door entrance wall, whereas, the pattern (once completed) will run down the (longer & narrower) length of the ceiling. Stand with your back against the wall (in which you intend to start the pattern) & look up; this is how your going to work the pattern; as you pattern, the pattern is always behind you, and your working away from it/across the narrow width, & down the length of the ceiling; now with your back against the wall, hold your comb in the hand that feels the most comfortable for you to texture with; if you hold the comb in your left hand, slide across the wall, to the far corner of the right side of the room, this is the corner that, once you apply your band of texture, your going to start your comb pattern, & run it the width of that wall/edge, if you use your right hand, you start at the far left corner of the ceiling.

In summary, using your paint roller, roll on a band of texture, around half/three quarter inch thick depth, across the narrowest width of your ceiling, right across, from one wall edge to the other, the band of texture should be around two roller widths wide, pattern this with your comb, then continue this method throughout the whole ceiling, continuing right down the length of the area. Everything here is fully covered in 'Texture Revival;' to help you more, look out for my articles concerning mixing texture & also surface preparation.

When you attempt any texturing tasks, always practice on a small area first for best results. Thank you for reading, I hope that this article will help you further with your quest in learning to use combs to texture with.

Dale Ovenstone.

Dale Ovenstone: Creator of 'TEXTURE REVIVAL' unique & amazing, downloadable books & guides for the home 'DIY' enthusiast; so that you can 'have a go yourself' http://www.lookreadlearn.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dale_Ovenstone

How To Mix Texture Powder Correctly

Texture powder (used for coating your walls & ceilings) can be purchased in many formats, usually in powder form, or even ready mixed in tubs & containers.

I find that the best value for money is to purchase texture in powdered form & mix it to the required consistency yourself, besides being better value, you can also mix it to your specific requirements depending on your specific consistency for that particular job in hand. Sometimes, ready mixed texture coating requires 'watering down' before use, obviously, this depends on the type of pattern or design your trying to achieve onto your ceilings & walls, but usually, you may find that if you just whisk the texture powder briskly in the container (without adding water first) you may end up with the consistency required.

Whereas mixing powdered texture is concerned, use a clean bucket: Almost half fill (not quite, but nearly) the bucket with clean cold water (unless stated on the package to use hot or warm water instead) then, add your texture powder into the bucket so that it completely covers the water depth; now, using your texture mixing tool (sometimes called a 'bumper' which is a plastic round & flat sphere that you attach to a wooden handle to squash the powder against the floor/bottom of the bucket, thus mixing the texture & water together) continue to beat the mixture against the bottom of the bucket, then if the consistency is still thin, add more powder (small amounts at a time) & continue mixing this the same way.

The general idea is to 'mix the texture to a thick consistency, and continue mixing to get the lumps of unmixed texture dispersed, but, it is almost impossible to mix out the lumps if the consistency is too thin whilst your mixing.

Once the mixture is thick, & you feel that you have dispersed most of the lumps, leave it for quite a few minutes to rest, then when you come back later to continue mixing out the lumps you may be more successful:

You can also use your drill with an appropriate attachment for mixing these types of materials: Once you have completed your mixed bucket of texture, the consistency should resemble that of 'thick' filler (whereas, if you scoop some up with your trowel or scraper, it doesn't fall off, but, in the same instance, you must not add so much powder so that it prevents you from being able to mix the texture properly.)

Now, you can use this 'thick' mixture for filling & caulking out any discrepancies on your ceilings & walls prior to thinning the rest down for texturing your desired pattern or design onto your ceiling & walls:

To thin down, just add small amounts of cold water at a time, & continue mixing with your tool until satisfied: Please remember, most coatings that you mix with water tends to dry back slightly (shrinkage) as it dries out; & also, you may find that the bucket is moving all over the place whist your trying to mix the texture, just place your feet each side of the bucket, on the floor, to prevent this. For even more ideas, plus your full guide to texturing for the home 'DIY' fanatic, check out 'Texture Revival' which downloads straight onto your computer.

I hope that this guide has helped you in your quest for mixing texture powder, and in all cases, always read, and follow the manufacturers recommendations on their packaging. Thanks for reading.

Dale Ovenstone.

Dale Ovenstone: Creator of 'TEXTURE REVIVAL' unique & amazing, downloadable books & guides for the home 'DIY' enthusiast; so that you can 'have a go yourself' http://www.lookreadlearn.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dale_Ovenstone

How to Get the Information You Need for Your Home Improvement Project

There is a lot of information available about home improvement. From popular television shows to in-depth how-to videos and training manuals, there are a lot of ways to learn how to take on a home improvement project. The question is then, is the information right? Keep reading for suggestions on sources of different home improvement how-to resources as well as info on how to assess its reliability.

Sources of Do-It-Yourself (DIY) Home Improvement Info:

1. Television and DVD

Television is great because it lets you see each step as the project unfolds. However to get the most out of a video how-to experience, your best bet is to actually purchase a specific DVD that relates directly to the project you're taking on. For example, if you're planning to install laminate flooring, look for a DVD specifically on how to install laminate flooring, not some other type of flooring.

You can find many of these instructional DVD's either online or right in your hardware store. Most are hosted by trusted experts or popular home improvement celebrities.

2. Books

How-To books are a great way to build a small home library with a lot of information right at your fingertips. The benefits of a few, well-chosen home improvement books are that they're always accessible, often well-researched and you can take them with you from project-to-project.

3. Internet

The Internet has millions of pages about home improvement. The problem is finding the right information. Look for reliable sources like trusted web pages or active web communities that self-edit. Look at a web site, including the resource it offers and how updated it is, and ask yourself if you would risk the cost of your home improvement project on its advice.

For specific questions, try forums or message boards where active users can often help you with a number of home improvement conundrums. Remember that unlike a book, you can't always take the Internet with you, so print off or write down the information you need.

4. Your Local Hardware Store

You'd be amazed by how many questions can get answered at your local hardware store. Ask your store clerk or even fellow handyman and you'll get all sorts of free advice for your home improvement need.

Finally, despite all the free advice available on DIY home improvement, that doesn't mean you can get away with never consulting a professional. For major projects, especially those involving your gas or electricity, always consult a qualified professional.

To help meet your home improvement needs, such as for beautiful replacement windows, great flooring options, home improvement loans, and much more, please visit http://www.home-improvement-needs.com for insightful information. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bill_McCowen

How to Fasten Furring Strips to Concrete, Brick or Block

Renovating a home or building an addition to an existing structure can cause stress and headaches for many people. The cost of hiring a builder or contractor for this type of work can be more than most growing families can afford. Many people are not aware that numerous home improvement projects are possible to complete on their own without expert experience, rather than having to hire a contracting professional. One major aspect of renovating or adding space to one's home is the need or desire to cover brick, concrete, or block walls. This will improve the look and feel of the space as well as prepare it for further decorating and intended uses.

One of the most common spaces perfect for a renovation project is the basement- one can increase living space without the inconvenience of having to add on to the home. Basements are made out of solid concrete, cinder block or brick, and, thus, require a fastener designed specifically for attaching to these materials. It is important to use a concrete anchor that will provide the strongest and most secure hold to ensure safety and proper installation. With the correct preparation, furring strips or 2x4s can be easily attached to concrete, brick, or block. After this is completed, the next steps in the renovation process can take place.

Before You Get Started

Furring strips are long, thin strips of metal or wood that create a support system for a finished surface in a room. Furring strips are typically 1" x 2" or 1" x 3". They can be anchored to brick, block, or concrete either horizontally or vertically. In most applications, vertical anchoring is easier. The spacing between the strips depends on the type of finishing material to be used. Wider spacing should be used for heavy boards that support ceramic tiles while closer spacing is required for thinner, lighter material such as paneling.

The furring strip is placed vertically against an existing wall surface to which the new, finishing material will be attached. If enough space is needed for insulation and electrical boxes, 2x4s can also be used in the same capacity. If you install 2x4s rather than furring strips, you will need:

- One 2x4 as the bottom sole plate
- Two 2x4s as the double top plate
- Vertical 2x4s placed every 16" or 24" on center

Next, choose the type of concrete fastener to use for the application. There are a variety of anchors available but the following two are ideal in this specific situation.

One of the anchors suitable for this usage is the sleeve anchor, which has strong holding values in brick and block as well as concrete. These concrete fasteners come with a flat, countersunk head that will create a smooth surface to attach to.

Tapcon® Concrete Screws are probably the most commonly used type of cement fastener for this application. These can also be used in concrete, brick and block. The flat, countersunk head of a screw provides a smooth surface in the wood to which you can attach your finishing material. Tapcon® Screws are available in two diameters - 3/16" and ¼".

It is important to consider what base material the furring strip or 2x4 will be attached to before installation. Both Tapcons® and sleeve anchors will work in concrete, brick or block. Keep in mind that these fasteners can be anchored into the mortar joint so spacing will not pose a problem. However, the holding values of an anchor placed in a mortar joint are directly dependent upon the quantity and quality of the mortar itself (which will vary in every situation).

Step by Step Instructions

Concrete Sleeve Anchors can be installed in five simple steps. Basic instructions follow:

• Line up the furring strips or 2x4s in the desired position to determine where the holes should be drilled. Do not drill all holes in a straight line, make sure the anchors are staggered.

• Using a hammer drill, drill your holes using a carbide-tipped masonry bit. The holes should be the same diameter as the sleeve anchor.

• Clear the holes of all debris using compressed air, a shop-vac or wire brush.

• Insert the sleeve fasteners into the holes and make sure they are secure and positioned correctly.

• Carefully position the furring strips or 2x4s in the exact, desired position. Tighten all the nuts to ensure the stud is secure.

• You are now ready to attach the material to these furring strips using the correct screws/tools as stated by a walling expert.

The installation of a is also straightforward. Basic instructions follow:

• Determine the desired position of the furring strips or 2x4s before drilling any holes. Make exact measurements to ensure secure wall covering.

• Using a hammer drill, drill holes using the correct diameter carbide-tipped masonry bit for the concrete screw diameter in use.

• Clear the holes of all debris.

• Drive the screws into the holes with a standard drill, and continue until all studs are firmly in place.

• Next steps would be to attach the material to these strips using the correct screws/tools as stated by a walling expert.

As with any home improvement or anchoring project, it is important to keep safety in mind and follow instructions carefully. Always remember to wear safety goggles, handle all tools with extra care, and follow all technical and electronic specifications. This article is meant to serve as a basic overview of the steps to complete this project.

Always refer to the manufacturer's instructions or consult a contracting expert. With some patience, planning, and basic construction knowledge- homeowners can renovate or add space to their home within spending large amounts of money to hire professionals. Take the time to research the necessary information and in no time, you will be enjoying your new room!

Article Written By: Bob Carlisle, President of Concrete Fasteners & Tawny Sikon Concrete Fasteners, Inc has over 40 years experience selling concrete fasteners. We ship to all 50 states and many countries. We can ship out one box or a whole pallet of concrete anchors. Our products are of the highest quality, "your satisfaction is guaranteed." We ship all orders the same day order is received. Concrete Fasteners, Inc. has over 40 years experience selling concrete fasteners. We ship to all 50 states and many countries. We can ship out one box or a whole pallet of concrete anchors. Our products are of the highest quality, "your satisfaction is guaranteed." We ship all orders the same day order is received. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bob_Carlisle

Fix A Sticky Door In 5 Minutes

Do you live in an older home? Do you have an interior door that gets harder to open and close as the seasons pass? You are not alone if you do. Home that are exposed to extreme temperature and humidity changes tend to expand and contract. This is not normally a problem. Homes are supposed to move a little. The problem arises when homes move too much.

It isn't necessary to call in a general contractor to fix a sticky door. With just a few minutes of your own time, a hammer, 16d finish nail or two, a nail set, and your own skills, you can repair it. Doing it yourself will save you the hassle of having to find a contractor. It will also save you money. Most house calls, from reputable building professionals, will average over $50.00 just to have them walk through your door. The fix for this problem is so easy. Let me tell you how to do it.

It is important to know how a door is installed. When your home was originally built the, first the framing went up. Then the electrical, plumbing, and insulation were put in place. Once these utilities were finished, the framing of the interior walls were covered with lath and plaster or drywall. Last, the interior doors were installed.

When the door was installed, or hung, the hinge side of the door casing was placed directly against the framing or stud. With the hinge side of the casing against a stud, nails were driven through it to secure it in place. Once in place, the latch side of the casing was made level and plumb and secured to the framing as well. Shims would have been used to make up any gaps and keep the door casing in proper place. The door could now be attached to the casing using the hinges provided. If all was done correctly, the door would be plumb (perpendicular to the plane of the earth) and an even gap, or reveal, could be seen all the way around the door.

Problems arise when contractors hurry the installation of a door or do it improperly. Problems can start when the door casing is not secured to the framing solidly. If the door casing was nailed to the header, the natural expanding and contracting of the header can throw the door completely out of alignment. There are other installation errors as well, but the end result is always the same. Someday the door isn't going to open and close properly. It isn't always the contractors fault. Homes, just like people, tend to get a little out of alignment with age.

The solution is simple and will take less time to fix than it did for you to read this article. Doors stick because the door casing has moved out of being square. Over time the opening becomes more trapezoidal. To fix the problem, you don't try to make the door square again. This takes too long and involves removing the door and trim to get to the root problem. Just look at the door and casing. Find the surfaces that are touching. (They will be easy to find.) They will be the ones where the paint or stain has been rubbed off.

Once you have found the rubbing surfaces, take a 16d nail and gently drive it through the casing where the rubbing occurs. Try to place the nail as close to the center of the door frame as possible to keep the wood from splitting. Drive the nail until it is almost seated. Then use the nail set to set the nail. You will want to use light blows. As you drive the nail into the framing, it will apply force to the door casing and cause it to move away from the door. Strike the nail with the hammer and nail set then check the door. It may take a few strikes, but eventually, the casing will be pulled far enough away from the door to stop the two from rubbing together. When you are done, all you will have is a single hole to fill with wood putty!

In summary, to fix a squeaky door you must first locate where the door and the door casing are rubbing together. Using a finish nail, drive the casing away from the door until the two stop rubbing together. When finished, depending on how good you are with your hammer, you will only have a single nail hole to patch. This is a very simple solution to a very common problem.

If you have questions about interior doors in your home contact a general contractor. If you are located in the Sacramento area please visit www.caladditions.com for all your repair needs. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stephen_Nightingale

Do-It-Yourself Bedroom Furniture

Having a piece of bedroom furniture that will endure, that is pleasing to look at, and that will compliment the other furniture in your home. With planning, patience for sight, DIY bedroom furniture can be helpful to you.

Waiting for your new house? All it takes is planning and designing your bedroom accessories to suit your own taste.

Come in, close the door and escape into your own personal sanctuary. Your bedroom is much more than a place to sleep, so turn it into a retreat that's rejuvenating during your waking life too. For that, smart wardrobe and storage solutions are just as important as a comfortable bed.

Several types of superior wood products have been developed by modern technology. The majority are wooden 'sheet' materials - flat sheets of laminated or compressed wood products that are generally stronger, more flexible and less likely to split than ordinary timber.

The important thing is that, you can choose your own material like teakwood, rosewood and laminated box. You decide the height and width of your wardrobe with fitted sliding doors where it offers space solving storage and easy access to your clothes.

Also decide the height of the bed, either high or low. A headboards that are handsome as well as utilitarian will look better with cabinet tablets on each side for telephone, clock, radio and books. Telephone book and other articles can be store beneath. A table lamp on both sides will help to create or enhance the atmosphere in a room. Lamps on the wall, floor or table are great for this. You can use reflected light from cabinet lighting up to a picture or other decorations. This makes your bedroom look more welcoming and inviting. All these depends on your wish, desire, choice and selection.

Do It Yourself furnitures are also available in the internet. You might want to take a look at it online.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rahmat_Suki

Custom Home Remodeling Increasing in Popularity

With home prices increasing and mortgage rates rising, many homeowners are opting to turn their current home into the home of their dreams through custom home remodeling.

The National Home Builders Association reports that approximately $280 billion was spent on home renovations in 20051. This amount is expected to continue to rise due to the concern for homeowners to add value to their existing home along with their desire to modernize their home. A custom remodel allows the homeowners to reflect their own style and individual tastes – from integrating a theme to using unique styling and colors.

Two of the most popular custom projects consist of kitchen and bath remodels. These traditionally consist of incorporating a more luxurious look and feel to the existing rooms and may include adding custom products such as high-end tiling, fixtures or elements.

With the current trend in creating an “open” kitchen and living area for entertaining, comes the emphasis of creating specialty areas specifically designed for individual family needs. With added square footage to open up an area, along with stunning granite countertops throughout, custom cabinetry, and stainless steel appliances that are as beautiful as they are functional, homeowners can now created a modern kitchen that takes center stage and looks fit for a gourmet chef to cook in.

The increasing desire for homeowners to remodel their homes can also be attributed to the increased interest in adding value to an existing home. By incorporating additional square footage, you’ve not only transformed the living space but you’ve instantly increased your home’s resale value. For example, a recent remodeling survey found a midrange remodel costing $10,499 would recoup 102.2% of its cost if the house sold within a year2.

Once you’ve made the decision to remodel, you’ll need to contact an experienced and reputable, licensed general contractor. When considering hiring a general contractor, it’s important to do your homework and thoroughly research your options. Your local homebuilder's association is an excellent source to find out information on local and established general contractors. Also, ask the contractor for customer references and contact these customers to find out what type of work the contractor did as well as their opinion of the contractor.

What do you look for when hiring a contractor? Hiring the right contractor is detrimental to your remodeling project’s success. Below are some helpful tips to follow:

• Search for a contractor who specializes in the type of remodel job you are interested in.
• Find an experienced contractor who is established and has a presence within your community.
• It’s important to find a contractor who communicates with you and shows enthusiasm about the opportunity.
Your home is one of your most precious and valuable assets. Be sure to protect your investment by finding the right contractor for your remodeling project.
http://knowhow-now.com/index.php?page=article&article_id=129685

Beat the chill with Majestic brand outdoor fireplaces

There’s nothing like sitting outside on a patio, deck or terrace in the evening enjoying a star-filled sky with family, friends or a loved one, but when the chill sets in, you head, regretfully, inside. Well, now, you can stay outside in the warm glow of an outdoor fireplace in the Al Fresco wood or gas series from CFM’s popular Majestic brand. Majestic fireplaces are available in wood or gas models and either type can turn your evenings into sheer magic.Majestic outdoor fireplaces feature expansive firebox openings for a superb viewing of the flames and for maximum warmth. With stainless steel, quality construction, a Majestic outdoor fireplace can last a lifetime and enhance a modern lifestyle anywhere you live, on your city rooftop terrace to your special backyard retreat.Choose from five all stainless steel outdoor fireplaces, which include stainless steel mesh screens, basket grates and concrete brick firebox linings. With 60,000 BTU’s of heat, you’ll never be driven indoors again by a chill in the air. No venting is required on the gas models so they can be installed anywhere allowed by local building codes. Wood model chimney heights may be low depending on location.

• Models ODGSR36A and ODGSR42A are fully insulated radiant gas fireplace models in 36" and 42" size and include weather resistant Insta-Flame gas burner system and logs• Models ODSR36A, ODSR42A and ODSHR42 are fully insulated radiant wood burning fireplace models in 36" and 42" size with built-in flue damper and gas line knock-out for easy conversion with optional 24" outdoor gas logs or DragonFire (ODSHR42 only) gas logs using the grate supplied with the fireplace.These outdoor fireplaces come with a limited lifetime warranty and all the confidence you can expect from Majestic fireplaces. Outdoor fireplaces by Majestic Fireplaces can be seen at myownbbq.com.

Finding Out How To Install Kitchen Cabinets Yourself

Remodeling your entire kitchen can be one of the most stressful, time consuming and difficult projects that you can undertake. But it is common knowledge that a kitchen makeover is probably the best way that you can take not only improve the function and beauty of your kitchen but also increase the value of your house. And when it comes to kitchen makeovers, one of the biggest changes you can make is the kitchen cabinets. Installing new kitchen cabinets can create the kind of look that you want and reflect your own sophistication and personal style.

On the other hand, installing kitchen cabinets may seem like an impossibly hard task, especially for those people who have no clue where to start and what to expect along the way. So if you are thinking of installing your new kitchen cabinets yourself following is some important advice that you should take note of in order to make the process a whole lot easier and allow you to enjoy do-it-yourself remodeling more.

Ask For Help From Someone Who Knows

If you plan to install kitchen cabinets on your own and have no idea where to start you can begin by going back to the shop or home improvement store where you bought your cabinets. Their friendly staff will gladly assist you in your search for instruction and installation information. Certain home improvement retailers, like Home Depot and Lowe’s, encourage their customers to ask questions a when it comes to do-it-yourself home improvement projects. They are well trained and very good when it comes to offering advice to their customers and guiding them in the right direction for help with any project, even installing kitchen cabinets.

If you would like to take a look at the variety of kitchen cabinets and accessories that these home improvement stores are selling, you can visit them at their official websites at www.homedepot.com or at www.lowes.com. If you want immediate assistance, you can go directly to a local store so you can speak with one of their helpful representatives and see cabinet sample first hand. These home improvement retailers put together really good scaled down displays of not only cabinets but also complete kitchens with sinks and appliances.

There are many sources from which to get enough instruction and advice to install your kitchen cabinets. There are many television shows today that quickly explain all the steps necessary to complete almost any do-it-yourself project, along with really helpful hints and tricks. And although these shows go very quickly they all offer corresponding websites that detail the steps more completely.

With all these sources at your disposal even you can install the kitchen cabinets yourself and save a lot of money when remodeling your kitchen. http://www.10e-design.com/?p=605

Crucial Do-It-Yourself (DIY) Home Improvement Tips

With an ever-expanding network of home improvement television shows and DIY magazines, the do-it-yourself home improvement sector has taken off. Homeowners everywhere are rushing to their local hardware stores, ready to rip out their bathroom tile or tear down old kitchen cupboards.

As excited as you may be to get started on your first DIY home improvement project, there are a few considerations you should first take into account. You need to plan, understand your project, budget, and be aware of your space. To learn more about these basic, but crucial, DIY home improvement tips, keep reading.

1. Plan, Plan, Plan

Before you even begin a DIY home improvement project, you should have a full plan in place. And prior to making that drive to the home hardware store, put together a folder with all your measurements and a complete list of everything you intend to buy, right down to the last nail.

People get excited about projects and don't want to get right to it instead of "wasting" time planning. However, by planning you’ll make fewer mistakes, be less likely to waste materials and time, and muchmore likely to stay on budget. In the end, you'll be glad you did!

2. Budget

Along with planning, comes budgeting. As you plan the details of your project, keep a running tally of the expense for each material. If you don’t know how much something costs, check the Internet or call your local retailer to obtain a price ahead of time.

Once you have your budget, add 10-20% extra. Almost every home renovation project, DIY or not, runs up against unexpected expenses - it's just a reality of life's uncertainties. Whether it is materials that cost more than you expect or a surprise problem that needs to get fixed, you’ll need to have the money ready to take care of it. Every good DIY’er knows to have a little extra on hand.

3. Understand Your Project

Before you attempt to tackle a major home improvement project, make sure you know what you’re doing. Use resources like books, your local hardware clerk, the Internet and how-to videos to get a good grasp on the project you will be undertaking.

If you feel like the project is out of your league, don’t hesitate to call in a professional.

4. Know Your Space

This tip is related to planning, but make sure you have enough space to take on your project. Don’t try to fit a new island in your kitchen if there isn't sufficient room for it. Try to live by the old carpenter’s adage of “measure twice, cut once.”

About the Author

To help meet your home improvement needs, such as beautiful replacement windows, great flooring options options, home improvement loans, and much more, please visit http://www.home-improvement-needs.com for insightful information.

http://www.goarticles.com/cgi-bin/showa.cgi?C=720145

Home Insulation – Should You ‘do It Yourself’ Or Use A Professional Contractor?

Insulating your home well can save you a small fortune on your energy bills, by cutting the amount of heat you lose through your walls, doors and roof. But should you try to do this home improvement by yourself, or hire someone to do it? This article weighs up the pros and cons of using a professional contractor versus doing it yourself.

The Energy Saving Trust in the UK estimates that the average home can save several hundred pounds off its annual heating bills, and prevent the emission of over two tonnes of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere annually, by installing insulation throughout. Insulation is the single biggest measure you can take to cut the amount of energy you use in the home. Plus this will also make the average home more comfortable by making it warmer in winter, and cooler in summer. It’s no wonder that hundreds of thousands of people a year in the UK are getting their homes insulated.

When thinking about insulating your home you are immediately faced with the choice of employing a professional contractor to do it, or attempting a bit of DIY. At first the DIY option can appear tempting. For example, some types of insulation, such as loft insulation, are not normally technically difficult to fit. The materials are readily available in most DIY stores. Plus many people automatically think that DIY is going to be cheaper than employing a professional contractor, because with a contractor you are paying for their labour.

However, in many cases they will be wrong because using a professional contractor is either cheaper or roughly the same cost as DIY. This is because installing insulation in the UK is now heavily subsidised by gas and electricity suppliers, in order that they can meet their carbon emission targets set by the government. These subsidies are funded by the power companies regardless of household income, and currently amount to between 50 and 70% of the cost of having the insulation installed. This usually means that using a contractor becomes price competitive, or in many cases even cheaper, than DIY.

Plus if you receive certain benefits from the government in the UK, you can get your insulation installed by a professional contractor completely free. This is because the government tops up the grants from the energy companies with its own subsidies to cover the entire cost of the work.

As well as financial considerations, there are other reasons why employing a professional contractor can be attractive. Firstly, some types of insulation do require special technical expertise. For example, to install cavity wall insulation – filling the space between your outer walls with insulation material - requires special machinery, as well as training. You should always use a reputable contractor for this. Although not technically difficult, installing loft insulation is often still a challenging DIY job. The working conditions in a loft are often cramped and unpleasant. Employing someone else to go up there is in many cases a much more attractive option!

As well as the technical challenges, DIY can also have a number of safety issues. For example, the mineral wool that is commonly used to insulate lofts can be hazardous. It is extremely important to handle it with care, as it can severely irritate the throat and skin. You need to wear protective clothing, including face mask, safety goggles and gloves. You also need to make sure that you do not expose the living areas of the house to the material, either when you unpack it, or dispose of any waste material.

If you use a reputable contractor, you can be sure that these issues will be taken care of, with much less hassle for you. You also know that the job will be done to a good standard, because of their training and experience. In fact, cavity wall insulation carried out by professionals in the UK comes with a 25 year guarantee if they are registered with the Cavity Wall Guarantee Agency, which most reputable firms are.

Given all of these advantages, we recommend that most people use a professional contractor to get their home insulated. It’s generally competitive on cost or cheaper than DIY, safer, less hassle, and will be done to a high standard if you choose the right contractor. There are many reputable firms who can be accessed through the Internet They will offer you a free no-obligation survey, after which you get a quotation. They also give you access to the attractive grants and subsidies mentioned above. If you like what they tell you, then you can simply go ahead and get a date booked for the work, and look forward to a warmer home and lower heating bills.

About The Author Alex Perry is a founder of http://www.downwithco2.co.uk , a site dedicated to making it easy for people to save energy and cut their personal contribution to Climate Change by giving them information and putting them in touch with companies that can help.

http://www.articlecity.com/articles/home_improvement/article_3133.shtml

10 Tricks to Save Big Money Redecorating Your Home

Many individuals elect to redecorate their home. However, many of these people often spend more time and money on home decorating projects than is really necessary. There are many unique and creative ways in which an individual can save money when they wish to redecorate their home, or remodel in one way or another. Here, you will learn some of the top tips for home decorating that will allow you to do just that! In addition to saving money, these tips will increase the overall value of your home. The first step you can take when engaging in home decorating is to ensure that you keep your projects plain, to a point. If you want to create a new look in the home, and add value to the home, it is important to keep the customization to a minimum. This is especially true when you are dealing with paints. Many individuals find themselves spending tons of money on customized paint jobs. However, the truth is, using simple colors when painting can change the appearance of the home. It is less expensive to paint in a structured way, and it adds more value to the home on the whole. The next top design tip for home decorating is to ensure that you are decorating in a fashion that is comfortable for you. Many individuals will decorate in such a way that they want to appeal to the senses of others. While these methods may actually turn out to be beautiful, they may not turn out to be what you will be happy with. If you are going to redecorate, or change the home in any way, be certain that it is right for you. Sure, your design may not appeal to others, who cares? It is your opinion that matters, you must choose what is best for you!Before starting any type of home improvement or home redecorating project, it is absolutely essential that you plan the project to the best of your ability. In order to make the best choices on the design of your home, choose the most suitable materials, and be completely satisfied once the project is completed, it is important to establish a plan. Going into a project with absolutely no direction can result in a big mess. However, if you plan your home decorating project with precision, you are likely to find that the outcome is exactly as you expected, sometimes more. Prior to starting your home redecorating and/or home improvement projects, it is important that you ensure that you are completely comfortable with all of the city, county, and state codes and ordinances in your area. Many individuals start home improvement projects only later to find out that they have violated a particular code and/or ordinance in their area. This often requires many adjustments and can lead to heavy expenses. Not only will you be responsible for adjusting it appropriately, but you may incur heavy fines as well. Prior to starting a home redecorating or home improvement process, it is important that you learn as much as you possibly can about the project that you will be completing. You should understand the steps that are involved in doing a thorough and high quality job on the task that you are interested in completing. If you are not familiar with the steps that are required, or do not know how to do a certain project, you may end up in a bigger mess than when you started. This can cost you a lot of valuable time and money. Research, study, and learn. Once you have the home decorating or home improvement project planned, it is important that you research what materials will be required in order to complete the project. You should then look around and research different places where you can obtain the materials for less. Many individuals, who want to save money on building materials and other types of home redecorating and home improvement materials, will visit areas where they are demolishing a structure. Many times, you can get good materials for little or nothing when visiting these sites. As you can see, there are many top tips for home decorating. By using the steps mentioned in this article, you can save yourself a lot of trouble, time, and money. All it takes is a little creativity, some structure, a plan, and the motivation to accomplish the goals that you have in home decorating and home improvement projects. This will ensure that all that you intend to do is completed in a good time frame, spending as little as possible, and in a fashion that you enjoy!Gaetane Ross is a Home Improvement Consultant who has spent over 4 years focusing helping people remodel and improve their homes. She also specializes in Holiday Home Decorating. http://myhomeinteriordesignideas.com

Remodel: Do It Yourself, Or Call in the Pros?

By Jeff Opdyke
The Wall Street Journal
December 28, 2007
Like many guys, I'm inclined to indulge my inner Bob Vila.

Whether to prove to myself that I can tackle a repair or remodeling chore, or to save the cost of calling a pro, I generally spend a few minutes eyeballing what needs mending and then tell myself: "I can fix that."

So it is, then, that as my wife, Amy, and I set out to reconstruct our master bathroom, I found myself looking around the bath to determine what I could do myself. Demolition work? I'll have everything ripped out in just hours. Tile work? I've seen goofballs do it on HGTV. Plumbing work? Probably no big deal. Electrical? A snap, based on having replaced some fixtures in the past.

But when I mentioned to Amy that I'd tackle various parts of the project to keep our costs down, she responded with, "Whoa, cowboy. I think we should talk to a contractor first."

In the husband-and-wife world of home remodeling, this is the do-it-yourself vs. do-it-right debate. One half — stereotypically the guy — wants to get his hands into the mix. The other half — stereotypically the woman — likes that notion in theory, but knows that in practice projects that should take a few weeks often drag on much longer, if they get done at all.

Part of the debate is about simple competence: Many do-it-yourselfers find out, too late, that their tool belts are bigger than their brains.

But the core of the debate is really the old one about time and money. Is it worth the money you save to spend all the time necessary to do something right? Or is the entire family better served by hiring a pro — and having you concentrate on the things that the family needs, and only you can provide?

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

Home-repair wannabes should have that tattooed on their foreheads. Because, as any do-it-yourselfer knows, a little success with small repairs gives you a false sense of ability, a feeling you can pretty much handle the big stuff, too.

In recent efforts I have deconstructed a dishwasher to stanch a leak; built a heavy-duty, retractable support bracket for a wall-mounted television; and taken apart my son's scooter to replace electronic components he fried. So naturally, such a résumé left me little doubt that I was capable of reworking the plumbing infrastructure in our bath, laying slate on a shower floor so that water drains properly, and fashioning an arch in a doorway that was formerly square.

That optimism isn't necessarily a bad thing. It's like the Little Engine That Could: I think I can, I think I can, I think I can. And when we can, it's often satisfying and a lot of fun.

But sometimes, our optimism is met by an equally strong force: the spouse as the Voice of Reason. Perhaps she (to continue the stereotype) knows you don't have the skills, based on the historical evidence. Or she recognizes that you don't have the time you think you do — that with all the games, the car pooling, the grocery shopping, your day job, there aren't enough hours in the day to devote to this project. Or she just doesn't want to live with a pile of crown molding in the middle of the dining room.

That's what my Seattle friend, Jack, says he realized when visiting his brother nearby, who has been working for a while on several home-improvement projects. Jack says his brother has the skills. What he lacks is the time.

"They've been living in this house where you walk in and there are workshop lamps, not regular lamps," Jack says. "There are power tools in the living room, bare drywall around the window, and all the trim stacked in the middle of the room."

So when Jack's brother went on a trip recently, his wife "hired a handyman to finish some of this stuff," Jack says. "She was afraid he was going to blow a fuse, but she was tired of living in a construction zone. So, she just went wild and hired a pro."

What's more, Jack says, his brother is "starting to warm up to it because it's really nice to have it all get done finally. He says he can't watch the process because the handyman doesn't do things the way [he] would do them, but once it's done he says he can't tell the difference."

I called in the pros. And I'm glad.

Over the past several weeks, as our new bath has taken shape, I've watched the various craftsmen work with wood and tile and plumbing. None of it looked particularly difficult; a lot of it I know I could have done. But, honestly, I would have never known about techniques and tools they employ. And while I would have saved thousands of dollars, I just know I would have created thousands of headaches in the process.

The painter is a perfect example. All the prep work and painting for the walls and ceiling will run about $1,200. The paint we bought cost us exactly $72.94, meaning we could have saved roughly a thousand dollars painting the room ourselves.

Amy and I have painted rooms before with fine results, so this would have been no problem. Except the level of work in the bathroom exceeded my expectations. I would have had to repair areas in the wall and ceiling where the electrician and plumber had to cut away wallboard. I would have had to remove the previous wallpaper where possible, apply sealer in places where the wallpaper couldn't be removed, float the walls twice, then sand them smooth and apply a texture, and only then get around to the painting.

I only know of these steps because I watched a pro do it. I'm certain I would have missed some of them along the way and possibly ended up with a subpar result that neither of us would have been happy with.

Moreover, as Amy was quick to remind me, neither she nor I has in our life the kind of time this one, relatively small part of the overall project required. Though I relished the idea of saving more than $1,000, to her those savings meant little because of the great likelihood for frustrations and tension, "and the possibility that we screw something up and then we have to call someone to come fix it, which is only going to add to the costs. I'd much rather spend the money and know we're getting what we want."

Obviously, everyone has his or her own calculations to make in these situations. Some people have the time and the skills to finish a job quickly, while saving a ton of money.

And some of us just think we do.
Source http://www.mailtribune.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20071228/LIFE/712280320

A Garage Door to Die For

By Katherine Salant
We've all heard about the "to die for" kitchen that impresses your friends and relatives. What about the "to die for" garage door? The very idea may make you fall out of your chair laughing, but the offerings of garage door companies have radically changed in the last 10 years, moving from the ho hum to the quite fabulous.

Garage doors now run the gamut from stark contemporary - the entire door is tempered glass set in aluminum frames - to French country. The most popular of the new doors is the carriage house look. It's compatible with almost any traditional style of house. Even better, when it's closed, it appears to be a pair of carriage house doors that swing out, not a big blank area on the front of your house. A wider, 16-by-7-foot door - the standard size for a two-car garage - appears to be two pairs of carriage house doors. You can also customize a carriage house door to a remarkable degree by adding varying sizes and shapes of windows, trim pieces, bucks (from the street they look like huge Xs), half bucks (they look like huge Vs) and period-style hardware. The hardware options include straps (part of the hinges on the old doors), handles, and clavos (studs that held the pieces of wood together on the old doors).

All this comes at some cost, especially compared to your basic, Brand X, white steel door with raised panels that many home builders still use. For a new house, the Brand X installed price for a two-car-sized door can be as low as $300, while the upscale carriage house door in a two-car size can run anywhere from $600 to $30,000. The huge price difference depends on the material used - wood or steel - and the degree to which you customize it.

The most expensive, custom-made, $7,000 to $30,000, two-car-sized carriage house doors should look good enough to eat - and they do. At this price level, you are not limited to the carriage house look - the manufacturers will execute any design you present with any wood that is commercially available, including mahogany, cherry and walnut. You can add almost any feature you want, including windows with leaded or beveled glass. Designer Doors uses hand-forged hardware on its custom doors and offers unusual features such as a wicket, an operable entry door built into a garage door, a handy arrangement when the front of a row house is too narrow for separate front and garage doors. Designer Doors can also fabricate matching front and garage doors, a great way to create an aesthetically cohesive front elevation.

Still high end, but not in the stratosphere, semi-custom, wood carriage house doors in the two-car size run about $4,000 to $5,000, installed. They are not quite as fabulous as the custom doors, but you still get a gorgeous door with a deep, rich color that grabs you from 50 feet away, and you can customize it with bucks, hardware and many different window choices.

You might decide, however, that a painted carriage house look is more compatible with the façade of your house. For this you want a door made with paint-grade wood or medium density overlay, an exterior grade, weather resistant hardboard that looks like masonite (in the garage door industry, this material is called MDO). With either material you'll get a crisp shadow line that reveals design subtleties from 50 feet. The installed cost for the two-car size is about $3,500 to $4,500. For homeowners who want environmentally benign products, Jeld-Wen's MDO door and trim and buckboards are made with 100 percent recycled cellulose fibers. For this reason it is offered by California-based Pardee Homes, a production home-building firm that offers cost-effective, green building choices.

There is a downside to the wood and MDO garage doors, however. They require regular maintenance. To prevent the warping and cracking that can occur when these materials are exposed to the elements, the front, back and sides of the doors must be repainted or restained every three to five years. The sun's ultraviolet rays will also damage these doors. If you install one on a west or a south-facing wall, you may have to restain or repaint as often as every year or every other year, unless you have an overhang that will completely shade the door. Elaborating on the sensitivity of the wood and MDO doors, Dave DeYoung of Ann Arbor, Mich., who has been installing garage doors for more than 30 years, said that they can even be affected by a dryer venting moisture into a garage and snow that comes in on your car and melts inside.

If you want a carriage house garage door without the maintenance hassles, there is an easy solution: a steel door with synthetic trim and buckboards laminated to the front. These produce a three-dimensional effect with good shadow lines. From the street, where most people will see it, the door looks just like wood. You can get the same customizing options and the doors and trim can be painted to match the colors of your house. This type of steel door is much more dent resistant than the Brand X type because the panels are foam injected with polyurethane. During the manufacturing process, it chemically bonds with the steel to make the door panels stronger. The polyurethane has the added benefit of providing insulation. A two-car-sized door, installed, ranges from about $2,000 to $3,000, depending on the degree to which you customize the door. Pulte Homes is now using this type of door in some of its upper-end communities in Southern California.

Still too pricey? You can get a steel door with a carriage house look created entirely by way the steel is embossed. It is not as realistic as the doors with trim boards laminated to the front, but the installed cost is less - for the 16-by-7-foot size it's about $900 to $1,500. With this type of steel door, the panels are also injected with the polyurethane foam insulation to make them dent resistant.

The least costly option for the carriage house door is an uninsulated, embossed steel door; the installed price is about $600. Because there is no insulation, the gauge of the steel becomes important. Somewhat counterintuitively, the lower the steel gauge number, the stronger the material. You need one with at least 24- or 25-gauge steel. Avoid ones that are "nominal 24 gauge" because the thickness of the steel is very uneven, and this will compromise both the appearance and performance of the door.

You might decide that two smaller, 8-by-7-foot-sized carriage house doors will look better on the front of your house than one larger one. The price for a smaller carriage house door is about half the price of the larger ones quoted above. But be forewarned: all five garage door installers that I interviewed agreed the two smaller doors arrangement is less convenient because with the small openings, you have less room to maneuver your car as you come and go.

Sources. There are numerous garage door companies in the United States. I looked at the doors offered by four companies that sell nationwide, Clopay (www.clopaydoor.com), Designer Doors (www.designerdoors.com), Wayne Dalton (www.wayne-dalton.com), Overhead (www.OverheadDoor.com), and Jeld-Wen (www.jeld-wen.com).

SIDEBAR

Safety should always be a consideration when choosing a garage door. Most manufacturers now make steel doors with a "pinch resistant" feature that prevents your fingers from getting pinched when you close the door manually because of a power failure. Wood doors do not have this feature, but you will not have a problem if you have handles installed on both sides of your door.

Another important safety feature prevents the door from closing on an adult, child or pet. However, this is a function of the opener, not the door. By federal regulation, all garage openers must have an electric sensor near the base of the door that will cause the door to retract when it senses anything in the doorway.

Some openers, however, are noisier than others. If your garage will be below or next to a bedroom, an opener with a DC motor and a belt drive will be significantly quieter than the standard models with AC motors and chain drives. Some models with the DC motor also have a battery back up so that you can operate the door during a power failure. The difference in cost between the two types of openers is only about $50 to $75 - the quieter ones with the battery backup, installed are about $350 to $375.

Copyright 2006 Katherine Salant. Distributed by Inman News.

Building an In-Ground Pool is Easier than You Might Think

In-ground backyard pools are a great addition to any home. They not only add a focal point to your yard, and increase your resale value, they also keep the entire family entertained. What better way to spend a leisurely weekend afternoon than lounging by the pool with the kids?

The cost of building a pool keeps many people from realizing their dream. The good news is that you and a few handy friends or family members can build the pool yourself, saving thousands of dollars.

"It looks like a big job, but our state-of-the-art pool packages are designed for money-saving do-it-yourself installation. And, we're always there ready to assist you," says John Puder of Water Warehouse, a company that sells pool kits. The kits include everything you need to build a pool, including the pool kit, pump, filter, heaters, steps, etc. They provide free installation advice to help the process go smoothly.

To give you an idea of what's involved in building a pool, here are the basic steps:

1. Do your homework. Find out all you can about pool installation and the various kits that are available. Make sure the pool kit dealer stands behind its products, has an 800 number and offers you help along the way.

2. Figure out your budget. This will include the cost of the pool kit as well as any other supplies. It will also vary depending on how much you want to customize your pool. "There are some items, like a slide, that you can add later, but some things you have to include at the outset, like lights or steps," explains Puder. What will your labor costs be? You'll probably want to contract out things like excavating the pool, trowling in the bottom, backfilling and pouring concrete , so contact the appropriate contractors for their estimates. The rest of the budget consists of your elbow grease - and that of a few good friends.

3. Figure out your timetable. On average, it will take a week or two if you work with a couple of people straight through. If you're doing the project on weekends, it can take a month or so.

4. Start building. The first step is to decide on the location for the pool. Mark off the pool outline with stakes and string. Know how deep each section of the pool should be and make a diagram so you can confer with the excavator. Once the excavation is complete, you can start assembling and placing the side panels. "The walls of today's pools are made of various materials that are assembled like a giant erector set. They can be made from aluminum, galvanized steel, plastic and fiberglass," says Puder.

Next comes the plumbing, another item you may want to contract out. Once that's done, you're ready to shape the bottom of the pool and pour the concrete footer around the bottom of the forms. When the concrete is cured, you can backfill the excavation, install the liner and fill the pool.

5. Complete the landscaping. Once the pool itself is finished, you'll want to install a deck around it and perhaps add additional landscaping details.

6. Enjoy. You can relax by your pool knowing you saved thousands of dollars and that your investment will pay off for as long as you own your home.

For more information on building your own pool and on pool kits, visit www.waterwarehouse.com.

Courtesy of ARA Content
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/ara_buildinganingrou

Replacing Cement Tile Siding

By Barry Stone
Dear Barry,

We have cement tile siding and have been told that it contains asbestos. Some tiles have fallen off or are loose and need to be replaced or reattached. We are reluctant to do anything because we are concerned about asbestos health hazards. What are your thoughts on this issue? Can we do the work ourselves, or do we need to hire specialists? If specialists are needed, what qualifications are required? - Judy

Dear Judy,

The tile siding on your home consists of a material called transite, a composite of cement and asbestos fibers. Since the asbestos is encapsulated in a solid medium, fibers are not readily released into the air. Therefore, transite is not regarded as a significant health hazard if left alone. Abrasive processes, such as sawing, drilling, grinding, scraping, or sanding are the only likely means of producing dust that would be unsafe to breathe.

If the tiles can be resecured without releasing asbestos fibers, you should be able to perform the necessary repairs without adverse consequence. However, work that might release asbestos fibers should be referred to a licensed asbestos abatement contractor. If you choose to do the work yourself, consult an asbestos abatement contractor for an evaluation of the situation and for advice regarding appropriate safety procedures.

Copyright 2002-2006 Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman News Features

Changing from Plywood Siding to Stucco

By Barry Stone
Dear Barry,

My home has grooved plywood siding, and I'm interested in changing to a stucco exterior. I've been told that this provides fire protection and improved soundproofing, but I've got some questions. Does the wood siding need to be removed before installing the stucco, and is paint needed to make the stucco finish waterproof? - Mary

Dear Mary,

Installing stucco on a wood-sided home is an excellent way to upgrade the rigidity of the structure, improve energy efficiency, reduce the transmission of outside noise, and significantly minimize future maintenance. Basically, you will be wrapping your home in a continuous envelope of wire and cement.

Removal of the existing plywood siding is not necessary prior to stuccoing your home. The wire and paper wrap can be installed directly over the siding, as long as the nailing of the mesh coincides with the layout of the wall framing beneath the siding. Painting the stucco is not necessary to provide adequate waterproofing, as the asphalt paper backing provides the necessary moisture barrier. However, elastomeric paint can be applied for added moisture-proofing.

Copyright 2004-2006 Barry Stone. Distributed by Inman News.
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/changeplywoodstucco

Understanding Siding Basics

Siding


Vinyl siding is available in a variety of colors, textures and profiles.
Benefits include easy installation and low maintenance. Color is solid throughout, so scratches don’t show. Available in widths up to 12” in lap. Aluminum siding is used less frequently than vinyl siding. Has a baked-on enamel factory finish that fades over time and needs to be repainted. Can be installed over any structurally sound surfac
Must be grounded with a No. 8 or larger wire to the cold-water service or the electrical service ground. Wood siding typically comes in redwood and cedar. Wood is a natural insulator and adds to the R-value of the wall. Not as popular as other types of siding as it is high maintenance. May be stained or painted. Fiber cement siding looks, feels and installs similar to wood.

Created by mixing Portland cement, sand, clay and wood fiber and forming it into siding panels with various textures, including wood grain, smooth or stucco texture. Usually comes primed and ready to paint. Has a Class 1 (A) fire rating and resists rot and wood-boring insects.


Soffit & Fascia Panel

Soffit panels enclose the underside of an eave.

Fascia panels enclose the front of an eave.


J-Channel

Used to trim out the ends of siding panels where they meet a door or window.

Also used to cover cut edges of panels around windows and under the eaves.



Corner Post

Outside corner posts provide a more finished appearance at the outside corner of adjoined walls.

Inside corner posts provide a more finished appearance at the inside corner of adjoined walls.

http://www.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=6839069828965776212

Chimney Fumes Present Real Estate Danger

By: Bill & Kevin Burnett
Q: I live in an 18-year-old condo in San Mateo, Calif. It is on the top floor of a three-story building. When the condo just below me has a fire in the fireplace, I get noxious fumes - like when a candle has been snuffed - that continue as long as the fire lasts. The chimney pipes are separate but side by side and the same height. What should I do?

A: Danger! When was the last time you or your neighbor had your chimney inspected or cleaned by a chimney sweep? Over 18 years, both fireplaces probably have seen many a winter fire. It's likely that you have a wood-burning zero-clearance fireplace with a triple-walled metal chimney. These units have been installed for many years as an economic alternative to brick fireboxes and masonry chimneys. Like their masonry counterparts, they require periodic cleaning and maintenance. The most likely cause of your problem is a dirty chimney. After years of wood fires, creosote builds up in the chimney.

As wood burns, it releases heat and gases containing tiny airborne particulates. The gases escape to the outside through the chimney, but some of the particulates adhere to the chimney walls, forming a substance called creosote.

Over time, the creosote buildup becomes combustible. As a fire burns, the creosote in the chimney starts to smolder, releasing more gases. Because your chimney shares the same chase as your neighbor, it's possible that a leak at one or more of the joints in the chimney pipe is allowing some of the combustion gas into the chase. These gases may then be entering your home through openings such as electrical boxes.

Chimney fires resulting from creosote buildup are very dangerous. We suggest that you tell your neighbor about your observations. Then, assuming that your chimneys have not been cleaned or inspected recently, have it done.

Look in the Yellow Pages under "chimney sweeps" to locate a tradesman who can perform this service. We suggest that you also call your local fire department and ask it to do a safety inspection. There should be no cost for this service.

Another, less likely, cause of the odor might be the weather. Assuming that you are not operating your fireplace at the same time as your neighbor, you may be getting some back draft from the smoke exiting your neighbor's chimney. This can occur on a calm day when the humidity is high. Unless you notice the smell only occasionally, it's unlikely that this is the cause.

Copyright 2004-2006 Bill & Kevin Burnett. Distributed by Inman News Features.
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/chimneyfumes

How to Use Do-It-Yourself Toxic Mold Test Kits

VANCOUVER, CANADA. Many homeowners, landlords, renters, property managers, business owners, and employees want to know, and need to know, the precise identities of the various toxic mold species inhabiting their home, rental property, or place of work, according to Phillip Fry, Certified Mold Inspector and author of the mold book Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Prevention, Inspection, Testing, and Remediation.

To identify correctly toxic mold species, take these two steps: (1) use do-it-yourself mold test kits to collect mold samples during a thorough and complete building mold inspection and investigation; and (2) send the collected mold test samples to a mold laboratory for mold analysis and mold species identification.

Testing Visible Mold Growth

If a resident or occupant sees mold growing on a wall, ceiling, floor, heating or cooling duct register, or any other surface, he can scrape mold particles off the mold growth area onto the sticky surface of the opened mold test kit.

During such scraping of the mold growth, the tester needs to wear rubber gloves and a full-face respirator mask with organic vapor filters (such as the 3M brand from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store) to protect against toxic mold exposure.

To do the scraping, use a new or thoroughly disinfected (with ethyl or rubbing alcohol) paint scraper. Disinfect the scraper after each individual sampling to remove any possible mold contaminants, and thus avoid mold cross-contamination in the sampling process from one sample location to another.

Print clearly and neatly on a large pressure sensitive label the property owner’s name, the property address, the precise test location at that address, the testing date, and the type of sampling method (“mold test kit settling”), time duration of the test (e.g., thirty to sixty minutes) along with the tester’s name and contact information.

The label should also include each individual test number, as listed on the mold chain of custody form, available free from the mold laboratory. Attach the label to the bottom of the mold test kit that contains that respective, numbered mold sample.

Mold Testing of the Indoor Air

Use a separate mold test kit to collect a mold sample from the air of each of these areas---

1. Heating/cooling duct register. Expose the sticky side of an open mold test kit (one for each duct register) to the outward airflow from each separate heating/cooling duct register. Tape the open test kit to the duct grill so that the airflow directly hits the sticky surface.

Run the heating/cooling system on fan ventilation for 10 minutes prior to removing the mold test kit from each tested duct register. Then close, seal, and label each mold test kit.

2. Room Air by the Settling Method. Mold test the air of each room, attic, basement, crawl space, and the garage by first running a cleaned fan to stir up each room or area’s air all around for about 15 minutes.

Thoroughly clean the fan blades and fan guard with rubbing alcohol or ethyl alcohol after the fan’s use in each separate testing location.

Then shut off the fan, open up a mold test kit, place it open side upwards in the middle of the room [on the floor, or upon a table or chair] for thirty minutes to one hour to allow airborne mold spores to settle down onto the sticky surface of the mold test kit.

Be sure to use the same time for all air test locations for the standardization of the mold test results. Then close, seal, and label the mold test kits.

3. Outdoor Mold Control Test. The mold lab results of the indoor mold tests have the most significance when the results of each indoor location’s testing can be compared with the results of the outdoor mold control test.

The control test should be a mold test kit left open on the ground outside the building and at least five feet beyond the drip edge of the room. Use the same time (thirty minutes to one hour) that was utilized in the indoor air tests for the settling method tests. There should be no rain or snow falling.

Self-Interpretation of Mold Test Kit Results

The tester can then either watch the test kits himself for mold growth, with self-interpretation of the mold test kit results, over a seven day time period, or send the mold test kit to the mold lab immediately, or after the self-observation growth period.

Here is how to self-interpret the visible mold growth in the mold test kits after seven days of mold growth---

1. If the tester observes and count a greater number of mold colonies of any particular mold colony type (possessing the same or similar color, shape and/or structural pattern) growing in one indoor mold test kit than in the outdoor control mold test kit, then the tester can reasonably decide that there is a possible indoor-generated mold infestation in the area/location involved in that particular mold test.

2. If the tester observes a particular mold colony type growing in a particular indoor mold test sample that is NOT present in the outdoor control mold test, then the tester can reasonably conclude that there is a possible indoor-generated mold infestation in the area/location in which he conducted that particular mold test.

3. If the tester observes three or more of the same mold colony type growing in one mold test kit, then the tester can reasonably conclude that there is a possible mold infestation in the area/location in which he conducted that particular mold test, regardless of the number of similar mold colonies present in the outdoor control test.

Why is that conclusion possible? Consider this rat analogy: if there are only three rats living inside a particular area of one’s home or building, is there no indoor rat problem just because there are more rats living immediately outside of the home or building?

It is the time-cumulative exposure and body intake of even modest numbers of indoor airborne mold spores that makes residents or occupants sick from mold exposure. Because residents or occupants spend many hours per day indoors in a home or workplace, they are continually inhaling or ingesting mold spores.

When the mold spores enter into the residents’ eyes, nasal/sinus areas, lungs, stomach (eating and drinking food and beverages upon which airborne mold spores have landed), or open body sores, the mold-spores, once inside the body, can begin dangerous mold growth inside the body because of the abundance of body moisture and food to eat (people’s bodies)!

4. If the tester observes three or more of the same mold colony types in several or many mold tests taken from different areas of the home or building, the tester can reasonably conclude that the mold species is possibly widespread in its contamination of the tested home or building.

The most dangerous mold species to residents and occupants are the molds that are omni-present through out the home or building, thus causing widespread, cumulative mold exposure and body intake.

For more information about the use of mold test kits, mold laboratory analysis, and mold species identification, please visit:

http://www.moldlab.biz
http://www.moldinspector.com
http://www.moldmart.net

Mr. Phillip Fry, a Certified Mold Inspector and a Certified Mold Remediator is also the author the widely read mold advice ebook "Do-It-Yourself Mold Prevention, Inspection, Testing and Remediation" and "Mold Health Guide." He also co-authored "Mold Legal Guide." Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Phillip_Fry

The $27,000 Toilet Seat - Funny DIY Story

This story was told to me by a plumber I know and it brings home the reason why there are times to call a professional.

I received a call from a homeowner asking for someone to come estimate some repairs. When I asked the sort of repairs, he said it would be too many to enumerate, but much easier if I just came out to the house and looked. I went. It began like this...

Old Joe wanted to change his toilet seat, but couldn't get the old one off. So he tried wrenches until he rounded off the nuts (he was turning them the wrong way because they were upside down) and then decided to get his trusty cold chisel and hammer out. Well, he tapped a bit on it with no success, so he drew back the hammer to smite a mighty blow against the stubborn bolt. In so doing he broke the toilet tank and flooded the area with cold water. This cold water gave him a shock and he drew back in a hurry dropping the hammer into the bathtub causing a big chunk of the porcelain to pop off the tub floor.

Regrouping his thoughts, he ran down to the basement two floors below to shut off the water to the house, the house had no other valves installed when it was built in the 1890's. Meanwhile water was flooding through the floors and had saturated the plaster of the ceiling below to the point it collapsed into the living room. Old Joe then removed what was left of the toilet tank, and tried to remove the bowl from the floor flange. It wouldn't budge either, so out comes the trusty chisel and hammer again, and "WHACK" no more toilet bowl. In the process however, he managed to tear the closet flange from the floor as well,and since it was attached to a lead closet bend, it torn and now needed replaced too. He determined that it would be necessary to cut out the tee in the stack where the closet bent was attached. Since he had no idea how to repair old lead piping, he thought using that nifty PVC from Home Depot would do the trick.

He tried to cut the cast iron stack with a hacksaw to no avail, then tried a sawzall, also fruitless, so.... yep, out comes the good old chisel and hammer, but a bigger hammer this time. He whacks on the stack a few mighty blows and Viola' it splits into several pieces with one tiny segment still holding it all together. He pried the last vestige of solid pipe out of the wall with a crowbar and suddenly the remaining section of pipe (the vent going through the roof) lets go and with a mighty crash comes down and out of the wall through the sub floor into the now plaster less ceiling of the living room, continues its downward decent until it hits the TV set, ricocheting off that and through the floor of the living room until it hit the electrical panel plunging the house into total darkness and finally comes to rest after shearing off the main water shut off valve flooding the basement.

This was a $27,000 toilet seat replacement.

For More Do It Yourself Funny Stories visit: http://www.forteelectric.com/DIYproblems.html Paul Forte has been in the construction field for over 25 years. You can visit his website at http://www.forteelectric.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Forte

DIY Hardwood Floor Refinishing For Beginners

If your once beautiful hardwood floors are starting to look worn, scratched, and damaged, it might be time to try this type of refinishing. If you've been wondering, "can I refinish hardwood floors myself," don't worry. It doesn't have to be difficult if you have the right tools and knowledge, and it can make your floors have the glow of brand new wood again!

First, before you begin the refinishing process, take a look at your old floors. Fill any large cracks or gouges. If your floor is not in good shape, you can use a commercial paint stripper and some kind of putty knife to scrape off the old finish and begin again. This is a great option when there are many stains on the old floor.

The second step in this is that you will need to sand down your floors. You can use a drum sander or orbital sander for the main part of the floor, and you will also need an edge sander for the area around the walls and corners. To get beautiful, well-sanded floors, start with heavy grit sandpaper and sequentially work your way down to lighter grit sandpaper. You will need to do several sandings.

Next, it is time to stain the floor. You can achieve practically any color using stains, but pick the color carefully. Another option is to keep the natural color of the floor, in which case you can skip this step. Follow the instructions on the can of stain and make sure to let the stain set for the recommended time period.

The next step in DIY hardwood floor refinishing is to apply a finish. Once again, you will want to follow the instructions on the can. Generally, at least two coats will need to be applied, and you will need to leave time for the finish to dry properly between coats. A special brush or roller is used to apply the finish smoothly and evenly.

Do it yourself hardwood refinishing requires some basic experience in DIY home projects as well as the right equipment. However, it is a simple and rewarding job that will increase your home's value and make your hardwood shine with its natural beauty. Make sure you have recruited some people to help, because the sanding and finishing process can be time-consuming.

Visit us for more information on installing hardwood flooring, hardwood refinishing and how to clean laminate floors. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Christopher_W_Smith

Sump Pump Installation for Do-It-Yourselfers

According to recent surveys, over 85% of all homes with basements will experience some form of wet basement problems in their lifetime. Installing a sump pump in the basement can be a great benefit, even if it’s only to keep the water from getting deep or to act as a floor drain.

What To Buy

Sump pumps are generally sold according to the horsepower rating of the pump motor. You will see ¼ horsepower, 1/3 horsepower and ½ horsepower pumps available. Although the horsepower of the pump is a good “yardstick” to use in judging which size pump to buy, a more accurate way is to look at the GPH or, Gallons Per Hour that the unit is capable of pumping. For instance, you will find ½ horsepower sump pumps that can pump 3,000 gallons per hour and you will also see other ½ horsepower pumps that are capable of pumping over 7,500 gallons per hour. As you can see, horsepower ratings are not very accurate in judging which size pump to buy. Generally, I like to buy a larger pump than necessary because it will usually last a lot longer because it doesn’t have to work so hard.

Choose a pump with a reliable switch. The switch is very important because it tells the pump when to turn on and when to turn off. There are several types of switches available on pumps. Some of the different types of switches you will find are called; “2 pole switch”, “mercury switch” and “diaphragm switch”. I only buy pumps that have a 2 pole switch. They have proven to be the most reliable over time. After all, what good is a sump pump if it won’t turn on?

Sump Wells

A sump well is the container below floor level in which the pump is installed. You will be able to buy a 20 gallon to 30 gallon sump well at you local home improvement store, in the plumbing section. Many people opt for a smaller 5 gallon bucket; don’t do it! Your pump will burn out very quickly because it is turning on and off too much, because it can only pump out small quantities of water each time it runs.

Installation

You will need to rent an electric jackhammer to break a hole in your basement concrete floor. Ask for a shovel bit when you rent the jackhammer. The shovel bit will make quick work of digging out the hole in which you will install your sump well. The lip of the well that holds the sump well lid should be installed slightly lower than the basement floor surface. This will allow your sump well and pump to act as a very good floor drain in case of a broken water pipe, leaky hot water tank, etc. You will need to buy a bag of sand mix cement to re-cement the floor area around the sump well and the broken concrete.

Most pumps come with a 1 ¼”threaded connection for PVC pipe. Get an adapter that converts it to 1 ½” schedule 40 pipe. 1 ½” schedule 40 pipe is more universal and a lot easier to find fittings for. Next, you’ll want to attach a check valve to your piping. The check valve prevents water already pumped up through the plumbing from draining back down into the sump well when the pump shuts off. These are easily attached with a rubber boots and a screw driver.

Make sure to use pipe cleaner before gluing your pipe fittings together. The pipe cleaner actually softens the plastic and allows the pipe glue to bond better. Check with the instructions on the glue can about how long to wait before pumping water through the newly glued connections.

Plug your sump pump directly into a grounded electrical outlet. Don’t use an extension cord because it will shorten the life of your pump. The electrical outlet should be on a breaker which is the proper size for your pump. Your electrical outlet should also be on it’s own dedicated circuit breaker to prevent other electrical connections from overloading your breaker.

Summary

Installation of a sump pump can be a pretty easy do-it-yourself project with some great benefits. By doing it yourself, you can save a lot of money and provide some great protection for your basement and its contents.

ARTICLE REPRINT PERMISSION

You may reprint the above article in your electronic or print newsletter; however, please include my byline and bio and keep the article intact. I retain all copyrights.

Robert Clarke owns B-Dry System NEPA, a basement waterproofing company. Visit http://b-drybasementswaterproofingnepennsylvania.com/sump-pump-installation.html for more information. He has also served as President of the B-Dry Owners Association, a nationally recognized group of basement waterproofing contractors. Visit http://www.b-dry.com/ for details. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robert_Clarke

Save Hundreds On Winter Heating Bills With Simple Do-It-Yourself Technique

With rising gas prices resulting from forces in the middle east and catastrophic results from Hurricane Katrina, natural gas consumers are frantically seeking means of conserving energy and reducing costs, especially in light of recent announcements by the Department of Energy that heating costs may rise as much as 71% this winter for the gas belt region.

Most have never considered, when looking at a luminescent gaslight, how many dollars are being eaten away, but many homeowners associations have, who are requiring members with outside gaslights to cap off gas service or convert to electricity.

While this may sound oppressive, if gas prices stabilize at the 71% increase, consumers may burn $400 a year in natural gas for only one gaslight. This week the Department of Energy announced consumers will pay over $350 more this winter to heat homes.

These announcements have sent many homeowners and city government officials on a scavenger savings hunt, attempting to reduce costs however necessary.

While many homeowners are unwilling to cut off service completely to outside yard lights, desiring the charm, security, and historical beauty gaslights provide, this hasn’t stopped them from seeking alternative sources of energy to maintain such beauty, especially since by converting to electricity consumers spend less than $20 a year. A small price when considering natural gas lamps burn dollars, day and night.

But, the hunt for available market products may prove frustrating, since conversion products are not readily available in most local department and hardware stores. A quick trip to the Internet, however, may provide all the resources consumers seek, and then some.

They’ll be met with various online stores, offering a variety of conversion models. Home improvement consumers and contractors will find everything from copper to plastic made bulb sockets, and a variety of wattages. And even that can prove frustrating since most homeowners don’t know exactly what they are looking for. Researching products, before buying, will certainly provide the in depth information consumers need to make intelligent buying decisions.

One of the best companies seems to be Charmlite.com, based in Anderson, Indiana, who not only tout a 25 year manufacturing history, but have installed lights from Saint Louis, through Indiana, to Washington D.C. Not only do they have a reliable track record, they recently re-engineered their product when prices began to skyrocket earlier this year, and the results have proved revolutionary to the residential lighting industry.

Earlier this year, Charmlite owner, Mark Young, a leader in the gaslight conversion market, began a quest to perfect his product, seeking long-term customer satisfaction, product reliability, and lifetime use of the product, without replacement.

Young contracted with Ripley Photocontrols, a subsidiary of Southconn Technologies, who spans a 60-year manufacturing history of lighting and switch technologies. RP adapted the eye of Charm-lite’s dust to dawn control, using Quad Gate Technology, assuring proper functioning, increased durability, power and strength, resulting in the type of product enhancement Young was looking for.

Charm-Lite’s dusk to dawn eye has a 24-volt photocell (AC or DC), which ensures consumer safety, and incorporates surge protection, which means conversion components remain safe. The new design has retained that same low voltage feature.

The circuit, however, was adapted from the same circuit found in every commercial streetlight across the nation, providing a type of power to Charm Lite that is unsurpassed in the marketplace.

“What this means to Charmlite is when consumers buy our product they are assured durability, longevity, and the strength tested and assured by the commercial lighting industry,” explained Charmlite Owner, Mark Young.

“This type of power is now available to the residential user, which means one dusk to dawn control is now capable of operating 10 lights from one switch.”

Young added this type of power is an important enhancement to residential users, who previously didn’t have access to this type of power.

It is also an important advancement for Young, who can now offer Charm-Lites to historical cities, seeking a means of reducing natural gas costs. Such cities are scattered across the Midwest and East Coast, who may not have converted lights, due to the strength needed to operate old model streetlights.

Young’s advancement in dusk to dawn lighting is not only important for durability and longevity, but also crucial to energy conservation. Because the dusk to dawn technology utilizes internal switches, light is only utilized during night hours, which means consumers are saving money not only on gas bills, but also electric energy bills. The low wattage, frosted bulbs, closely resemble the natural beauty and soft glow of gas lighting, while utilizing only a small amount of electrical energy to operate.

Another important feature is the copper bulb socket, which means the product will not melt, corrode or displace over time due to extensive weather damage. The MOV surge protection in the transformer also safety-guards consumers’ homes from lightening surges.

“Some consumers want 110, because it easily adapts to their homes, but that type of wattage is too high to provide the safety and security consumers need to ensure proper functioning of their homes,” said Young.

“High wattage electricity to gas lamps, in effect, creates a lightening rod in consumers’ front yards, and could electrify, sending surges of energy through homes and corroding major appliances.”

For homeowners with a lot to lose this winter, seeking means of conserving energy and reducing costs, such a conversion technique as the gaslight tip is certainly worth investigating.

For more information about Charmlite or its products visit www.charm-lite.com, or email charmlt@yahoo.com.

Tonyia Young is a freelance writer and media marketing representative. gtonmart@yahoo.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tonyia_Young